So, pulled the plug.
A simple job, just a few minutes to remove the air filter box to make it easier to get at the thing. The remaining connector didn't seem to be any danger of getting caught in anything, but I taped it to the top of the unit - after wrapping both connections with plastic and taping them up.
First impressions? it seemed to be idling/running smoother, but this could just be conformation bias, so ignored it until today.
I've been on the search for a 1990/94 Toyota Coaster bus (gonna make it my home), so checked one out and did over 200km of highway (110kph), country(ish) back road motoring (80-90kph), some steep uphills where I gunned the motor, plus some awful urban driving...and the engine ran sweet as, without a hint of miss fire.
Hopefully, the issue has been solved.
If it has, my next question is this:
What f&%*#$g use is the thing if it doesn't actually do anything?

Yeah - I'm headscratching the same thing - all I can say is I've had mine disconnected for several months and still so far so good. I guess the proper thing to do is try another sensor (even tho this one was fitted new immediately before the misfire started - kicking myself I threw out the old one straight away) - but then again, if it's perfectly happy without it (shrug)....

I'd actually pull the whole drive out and fit up a blanking plug (less moving parts and all that), but I gather problems can be caused internally with the aux shaft if the gear isnt there being driven.

Went for the same 200km drive to pick up my coaster (yay!) and it was smooth as silk, not a hint of miss-fire.
It now idles better, seems to have more pick-up, and is smoother. Hopefully, this is not just me.
Anyway, looks like I'll take it out. Any readers here have any knowledge on the matter of leaving it in or not?

you cant take it out. the shaft drives your oil pump...

I'd definitely be careful and research it well before you actually remove the drive and shaft - I'm sure someone has said that there can be problems with the aux shaft if the CMP drive is removed - perhaps it counterbalances the load from the oil pump or something like that. It's harmless enough to just leave it all in place I guess.

It's staying!

Oh! Well there you go - I thought the aux shaft just drove both the CMP and Pump separately but there was thrust balance involved.

Replace the sensor. They are cheap on eBay.

They are used so the ECU knows whether it's on the intake or exhaust stroke. This changes injector timing and can lead to misfires and worse economy if the sensor is left unplugged.

Last edited by galapogos01 on Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Not happening to mine... - so far - but yeah I guess it would be a good idea.

Many thanks. I'll order one today.
Is this the one, and all I need?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Genuine- ... 27cb1efc01

If the sensor is not working properly, why didn't this come up when the codes were checked?

Ordered the sensor the other day.
Now I have a f*****g mouse in the car!

Found this:

ecu-fuel-system-eec-f21/ef-position-sensor-and-misfire-t105784.html

I'm confused. Is the cam phase sensor of use, or not? I mean, why have it in there?

That's the thread that decided me to finally bite the bullet and unplug my sensor too - and as per that post it fixed my issue as well - which is where I stand now.

In my case I suspect my crank gear to aux gear relationship isn't right (long story why I think that - to do with my cam gear mark sitting about 17mm above the sill at TDC 1) - which might be the basic issue - ie. the phasing ends up a little too far off which throws a hiccup thru the system at certain load - without registering as a fault as such.

I agree that it's damned peculiar they have it when it really doesn't seem to be necessary - ie. altho I appreciate what Galapogos01 is saying, it actually clearly seems to run fine without it - as that linked thread describes also - so I'm personally not going to do anything about another sensor any time soon. If I ever pull the timing cover and find an issue + correct it then I might try plugging it back in then.

I have to apologise, because at the same time as taking that position, I haven't been game to actually step up and tell you not to bother with another sensor - and was kinda waiting to see what the result was if you did try one - tho i suspect that other thread says it all and ur experience would be the same....

Bear in mind that unplugging the sensor and removing it are two separate issues - ie. the sensor needs to be on the top of the drive housing to cover it - and the drive needs to be left alone in the engine because internally it's that phase sensor drive shaft which apparently drives the oil pump - so unplugging from the sensor is fine, but removing the whole thing isn't viable.

Last edited by Greenmachine on Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:55 am, edited 2 times in total.