Hey guys,

I have recently been thinking about building up a new engine for the EF that will be comfortable to handle more boost. (Currently got the M112 blower on there with a low 5psi) The actual blower that I would be using is still a bit up in the air (working with Geoff from Snort on this one) but I was hoping to be in the low to mid double digits of boost.

I was cruising around on another forum this morning and noticed a bloke with a built engine for sale that he was using in his turbo EF. I have a feeling the same engine is for sale on this site also.

Specs below:



So my questions are:
a) Does this sound like a decent deal?
b) What tests do you do on an engine to test it's health when it's not in the car (or the car is half dismantled and can't drive)? - Compression test? What else is there?


I'm going to poke around a little bit more and see what other info I can find on the net about the costs for rods and what not. But I am fairly new to all this side of the mods business.

Any advice would be appreciated?

I'd be asking questions like

How much boost was run during the "700km"?
What was procedures were used to run the engine in?
Who did the machining/balancing work?
Do you have all the receipts?

Then maybe get prices for all those parts and machining and add it up, I would probably build my own engine, but thats just me.

The price seems reasonable. As a comparison, I paid $2500 to get much the same stuff done on my EF bottom end, but used an ACL Race pistons & bearings instead and no hardening processes. The head was recoed, ported, shaved and fitted with XR6 exhaust valves for $800. I could have assembled the engine but chose to let a professional engine builder do it.

I agree with 4LEDboy points. If the engine wasn't run in correctly, you could have glazed bores and start using a lot of oil (been there and don that).

If the engine is in the car & running, it'll be easier to carry out a few checks. I'm not a mechanic but I'd try these:

- Compression test to see if the valves & rings seal
- Rev the engine after it's warmed up and see if what colour smoke you have. If the engine is tight, it won't rev freely
- Listen to the engine for any odd noises (eg. timing chain rattle)
- Look for any coolant leaks around the welch plugs & head
- Look at the oil colour (see if there's any colour change that indicates a leaking head gasket)
- Look for oil leaks, particularly the rear main seal

with out receipts, the engine is worthless.

Then you don't know if its had an over rev or if it's suffered from detonation.

IMO, build an engine, I've got an AU short motor that would be a good starting point. Then just fill it with a spool rod and piston deal and some good bearings and new oil pump.
If you really want to, send the rotating assembly to JB Automotive and have it balanced.

Yeah thanks guys.

To be honest, the whole 700km part made me sus as hell anyway. I'll give it a miss.


Brad, hopefully I'll get in to see you either later this week or next about the diff. We'll have a quick chat about the AU motor while I'm there.