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| Blazing EF |
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Hey guys
My engine has allways ticked since getting it rebuilt but my tensioner was also noisy at the time so i didnt know what the noise was. now ive fixed the tensioner its still ticks really loud. Now my car is on lpg and i know lpg isnt the best for your valves so are my valves stuffed? also my car is using oil (down to half on the dipstick after 3000 kms), but its not blowing smoke at all. I read on the net that valves could bee where the oil is goin aswell if there stuffed?? any ideas |
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| cjh |
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When you run LPG in a 4.0, you use heavier oil. the lowest spec is 15W40, but if the donk is using it, goto 20W50 oil, or 25W60.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| FairmontXR6 |
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wouldnt using thicker oil put more pressure on the valves, cam, rings etc leading to more oil leaks or engine damage. possibly clogging the pcv!!!
i understood the ef/el engines could only use 15w40 or 20w50 if need be, but the latter should be avoided and au can only use 10w30
_________________ 1993 Ford Fairmont EB II 5.0L V8 Wagon |
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| cjh |
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Fords spec for LPG engines was 15W40 for the AU series, dual fuel or not.
If the engine is well worn, a thicker oil like 20W50 isn't gonna hurt.
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| cooki_monsta |
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use good oil, penrite 20w should do the trick
_________________ Mods: sprint kit, steeda short shift, svo lip, El handles, El Air intake, au xr wheels, lukey cat back, jbl focal and pioneer sterio <--- Sold |
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| Blazing EF |
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ok the mototr was rebuilt 30000kms ago. i had 15w-40 in there and it drank it, now ive got 15w-50 and its still drinking so 20w-50 u say is gonna make a difference? also its a stage 5 its motor
cheers |
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| cjh |
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Sounds like to me they didn't scrub the bores out after honing properly.
That doesn't half wear the rings out quick, and use oil. You have a big prob there.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| Krytox |
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Change brands.
I used Magnatec in the Mrs' KJ2 1.8 laser and it drank it like no tomorrow. I now use Shell helix plus in it (as I do in my car) and have no more consuming problems with the Laser. Its the blue bottle and rated 15/50 and i obtain it for $24 from Big-W for 5ltrs
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| cjh |
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How often do you guys change your oil anyway? I change mine every 3-4 months, because i only drive about 5km to work which takes about 7mins, then the car sits there all day, then go home. Short runs are not good to leave oil in there to long.
My missus car is an 01 magna V6 auto, and it gets change every 6mths or 5,000km, which ever accurs first ( uses 15W50 Mits oil), and has 81,000km on the clock, when you look in the oil filler hole, the engine looks like it was assembled yesterday, it is that clean.
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| cooki_monsta |
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yuck shell
 use proper oil  how ever if its an its motor then id hate to tell u but cjh might be right
_________________ Mods: sprint kit, steeda short shift, svo lip, El handles, El Air intake, au xr wheels, lukey cat back, jbl focal and pioneer sterio <--- Sold |
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| cjh |
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Another one is my fathers 93 ED Futura, has 150,000km on it (approx), and it too is as clean as a new engine to, the only oil it has ever had is Shell XMO 20W50. He bought it new.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| Blazing EF |
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so how much is this gonna cost to fix?
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| vibr8n |
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oils ain't oils...
as long as it's a reputible brand, & the engine build was done PROPERLY than it's probably a lifter, (most common cause of any tick from a falcon) someone stated to use penrite 20W, please shut the fcuk up if you don't know what your talkin about. oil has 2 grades, cold start & operational temp viscousity. no single grade oil could protect your falcon. or much else to that point. penrite is good oil. if anything, without giving my own personal advice, go to autobarn, look in the penrite book, try whats advised for your car, if that doesn't work try a bit thicker. (if your going thicker it helps to use the same manufacturer so you can guage the difference) maganatec in everyday falcons = not good imo, going off experience. if your falc is a daily driver than thicker oil or an oil additive might help as a band-aid solution for a few hundred possibly thousand k's. for a performance engine, it's engineering, not so much engine building > if it's fcuked it's fcuked. an oversize (thrashed) engine could never possibly compare to a new (rebuilt) engine. it all comes down to tolerances & good engineering practice. when whas the engine work done ?
_________________ crow cam,cai,exaust,bbm,190 reg & el injectors,xr6 interior,guages,white cluster,pioneer/mtx stereo,big boot install w.i.p, 17"rims,koni/pedders shocks&springs with nolathane re-bush,ssv kit,stainless inserts,clear lights,t5 & short shifter,chardonay/pearl paint |
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| MacGyver |
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If you are using oil after a rebuild you could have glazed the bores so you have not seated your ring properly. No solution other than pulling the pistons and honing again. Then give it a bit of stick straight away to seat the rings properly. The amount of oil you are using is fairly substantial. In my 230,000k engine I don't use more than 0.5l per 10,000k's.
cheers Scott
_________________ If it doesn't fit, jam it. If that doesn't work use a hammer. - Engineers Motto |
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| Blazing EF |
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The bottom end i bought of waggin and was apoparently built by mark at ITS not exactly sure how long ago. when i was ready to put it in which was october 2005 i got him to to a head up for me at the same time. It didnt use oil when had it all done and ive had a few leaks here and there so never really noticed till i got them fixed a few months back.
any ideas? |
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