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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
I just went and looked at my spare EF block in the shed.
By the looks of it, it shouldn't be to hard to have both bearing bores over sized and fit double raced needle roller bearings at each end. They wouldn't need a dedicated oil supply, as splash oiling would be enough, so it shouldn't mater about covering the two oil passages. You couldn't use a needle roller with only an outer race as it would wear the AUX shaft bearing surface. And white metal bearings would wear to fast. That would solve any issues with AUX shaft or block wear, and probably gain a few PSI of oil pressure too. |
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| sterps |
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By doing this job ourselves, does that mean we need remove the engine or the K-frame, or can we replace the aux. shaft without removing them.
Also an auto elec. said to me when we take out the timing chain to clip it up or something so it doesn't move, i don't remember, but he said if i did it would make it easier to do. Does anyone know what he ment by that? thanks again |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
take the engine out dude. and check/measure every timing chain/AUX shaft component and ALL wear surfaces, or you be back in there doing it again 12 months time.
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| maddog |
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I went to the point of drilling a hole that intersects with an oil passage that has a fitting which will allow oil to squirt onto the meshing gears of the dizzy and aux drive shaft.
Also I drilled a hole in the bore of the front of the aux drive shaft to intersect an oil passage to provide a bit of extra lube here as I have heard of seizing aux gears. Now that Troyman has mentioned Dizzy, I have one of those aftermarket Distributors that you buy from coventries for $140 installed. I am a few weeks from starting this new engine but looks like it might be an idea to put a genuine original ford one as a precaution. I thought the aftermarket dizzy was made by the same mob that make the genuine ones as they are practically look identical except for the markings. |
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| snap0964 |
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It might be cheaper to get a 2nd hand bosch dizzy, see if you can purchase a new ford drive gear, and install it. A new bush is around $9 from Ford - just measure your end float using a feeler gauge, and tap in the new bush to achieve same.
Then transfer over the new hall effect assy from the aftermarket. Or the simplest way, fit the new ford drive gear onto the aftermarket dizzy. That is if it's still available. Go to the 'Ask Papa Smurf' thread, and see if it's still available.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| lil_lincoln |
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dont want to sell the car at all??
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| sterps |
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Nah don't want to sell it.
Well yesterday we took the block out, and the aux. shaft was indeed stuffed. We think the oil pump caused it, it seems tight when you try to turn it by hand. How easy/hard is it ment to be to turn by hand? Also what causes an oil pump to seize up, this is the 2nd one that has seized up on me? The rest of the connecting parts timing chain, guide, etc seem to be in good condition. Gregory's says i need a dial gauge when putting the new aux. shaft in, can i just get one from bursons? I got a list of new parts i need to get aux. shaft, extractor gasket, acceleration cable, oil pump, timing cover seal set, sump seal, rocker cover seal. Can i get these parts from bursons/repco? Or do i need to go to Ford to get them? Is there a specific type of oil pump i should get? i know not to get a high volume oil pump. And can you only get a bosch distributor from ford? I also got some other parts i need to get from the wreckers, i know this is hard time of year to go to wreckers, but does anyone know any that are open? thanks again guys |
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| Krytox |
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going nuts on RTV blue on the timing cover and oilpan can cause bits of silicone to get suck into the strainer.
Had you replaced the oil pump with a high volume one? seems a lot of people are having aux issues.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| sterps |
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Ford fitted the last oil pump the last time this happened. So i have no idea if it was a high volume one.
The only thing that was stuck on the strainer of the oil pump were 1 or 2 shavings of metal, probably from the aux. shaft. We took the oil pump apart, and had a look inside. And it seems there were like small chips on the sides inside the pump, once again from the metal bits. |
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| TROYMAN |
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the worst part about the aux shaft failure is, you will find fine metal particals all through the engine..
in the engine i had. when it was pulled down the crank and rod bearings were grooved and dammaged from the fine metal particals being curculated in the oil.. |
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| sterps |
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i have a problem, a called the local ford shop, they said they don't have any auxilery shafts, and that they are on back order, and there are none in the country....
Anyone know where i can get one from? |
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| sterps |
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Nevermind i found one, just gotta work out what we are going to do about the dizzy. I have 3 dizzys, 2 aftermarkets ones, and a used bosch one.
Should i just buy a new bosch dizzy, use one my current ones or go find a 2nd hand one at the wreckers. also has anyone heard anything about precision oil pumps, we can get one of them through bursons, or is better to get a ford one? |
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| sterps |
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Well we took the engine out and replaced aux shaft, put the engine back in. Though now the car wont start. There is no spark. The spark plugs, leads, dizzy and ignition coil are all new, but we still get no spark. We have checked for wires not plugged in, and found none, however one of the fuses in the drivers cabin keeps blowing, the crt lp one, are they both related? Any Help appreciated
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| MadMatt |
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Yes it is related, you have a short somewhere.
_________________ Member Number 8804 |
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| cjh |
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sterps wrote: Well we took the engine out and replaced aux shaft, put the engine back in. Though now the car wont start. There is no spark. The spark plugs, leads, dizzy and ignition coil are all new, but we still get no spark. We have checked for wires not plugged in, and found none, however one of the fuses in the drivers cabin keeps blowing, the crt lp one, are they both related? Any Help appreciated If I remember, that also runs the Smartlock too, that fuse.....I may be wrong...... 
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