the EB mounts bolt onto the au motor an you will need to get thermo fans if u go AU serpentine belt setup and an EF/EL alloy radiator is recommended as the bottom hose size is different and you would have to dodgy it. find an EL at the wreckers also and take the Relay box infront of the airbox and most of the requied wiring so you can run the fans off the ECU control.

okay at work today i took measurements etc and eyed all the holes and mounts...

if i use the
EB Powersteer mounting brackets
Powersteer tension pulley & bracket
Aircon Tension pulley & bracket
Water pump
log manifold
extractors

i just got check the alternator brackets as didn't check them today...

i am contemplating going down the route cause i don't really want to f**k around with the el objects ecu smartlock bypass etc etc and setting up thermo's and switches hopefully the only drama i should have once cleaning up the front of the sump would be getting a AU T5 bellhousing for the manual...

i'm pretty sure the aircon bolt holes are higher on the au motor than the eb motor. if you use the log manifold on the au motor it will hit the aircon pump.

you really dont need an au manual bellhousing. the normal e series ones work fine.

hi guys..

i assume you have read the doco ..
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=85

everything from eb will line up and are in there original places and will work on the au engine.
the only modifications are adding 12mm spacers to the top bolts on the eb aircon pump,you also need to grind the 2 diagonal fins on the timing case cover for the air- conditioner idler bracket to fit.
You will also need to drill a small hole in the air conditioner idler bracket just above the idler pulley And you will need to put a 15mm spacer between the timing case cover and the idler bracket bolting it through the timing case cover to the engine, this is because the bottom hole on the idler bracket dont line up.
and the hardest part is the alternator bracket..
i did make a nasty bracket which is on one of the pics in the doco.
but i have since made a new one..
its been 1 1/2 years now and i have not had any issues at all with the belt set up..

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: the finished bracket DSC00417.JPG [ 368.87 KiB | Viewed 118 times ]

DSC00414.JPG [ 341.16 KiB | Viewed 129 times ]

DSC00409.JPG [ 386.35 KiB | Viewed 110 times ]

File comment: spacers for arcon pump. aircon spacer.JPG [ 179.69 KiB | Viewed 135 times ]

by the way if you want more pics let me know and i will take some for you.

yeah thanks i read that tech doco there a while back when i first started this thread...... so the first three pictures are they for the alternator bracket????

revhead_88 has a build in progress with his EB on boostedfalcon.net
i like what he did to the kframe by just moving it forward for clearance and looks neat.



also posted some info here with pics http://www.fordmods.com/forums/fordman351-s-twincam-conversion-did-someone-say-turbo-t60016.html

yea mate the first 3 pics are for the ea alternator bracket to mount to the au block..

also one advantage of modifing the front of the k frame.
is if you give yourself enough clearence you can also fitt a ba motor without re-modifing the k frame..
the killer part is the wireing for the ba...
i think thats going to my next mod..

- My thinking is if i was to fit an alloy sump in an EA/EB/ED, i would not grind it, i would modify the K-frame for clearance and beef it up and protect the sump better. I would do this because if you ground an alloy sump it won't bend like a metal one, it may get a hole punched in it, which is a bigger problem. Later model K-frames seem to offer more protection.

- It looks like fitting an AU motor to an early e-series is a significant amount more work than fitting an EF/EL motor. Overall it seems the later the motor the better, but at the same time the more work and knowledge required. Choose your commitment.

- If the AU motor has a higher compression ratio than the EL, and the knock sensor and BBM and BBM-ECU aren't used, i wonder if there may be a risk PULP isn't enough to allow good running without pinging? LPG should run okay though.

- It seems most people here like and use top-end power, so having the BBM working properly is appropriate. I, however, tend to drive for economy, and when i do use power 148kw is enough for me. So if i were to fit a BBM to a car with a non-BBM ecu, i might just leave it set on the long runners, and make sure the inlet ducting isn't restrictive. There might be problems with doing this that i'm not aware of though.