im stumped with this when idling at the light just as you go to take off and touch the acellerator it stutters and almost stalls (its eb 4ltr auto) used to only do it when cold but now nearly all the time now .its like the engine is being turned off for a brief second ,any ideas pleeese its driving me mad.
put new ngk iridium plugs and leads
new air filter
new map sensor
au head gasket
timing chain
lifters
2.5 exhaust all the way

I have a similar problem with my EL and I think it might be the injectors. Dont bother using injector cleaner just get them ultrasonicly cleaned. Should cost around $100.
My car is dual fuel and I primarily use gas so I havnt bothered to fix mine

Make sure fuel filter is changed,and check pump!

got new pump maybe the filter cant remember changing that its underneath im to lazy .would timing do this as well

i had a simar problem with my eb, first up in the morning it would run rough and blow a little fuel smoke under revs, when it warmed up it would run smooth but if you went to take off to quickly it would die out for a second before responding to the throttle. i ran the ecu self test and found the air temp and water temp sensors were faulty, i replaced them both and reset the ecu not a problem since.

How do you run an ECU selftest?
Is there codes?


Cheers

wheres the air temp sensor the water temp sensor is about 2-3 years old i ran a selftest last time and it showed power steering swtich open fixed now but nothing else ,and how do you reset the ecu didnt know about that

here is the ecu reset i found it in this forum a little while ago

Any time the battery is disconnected, the transmission must re-learn the closed and wide-open throttle positions to enable the PCM to determine the proper gear to select for the appropriate throttle position. If the calibration is not performed following power source interruption, the transmission will shift hard and perform poorly from then on.

So to calibrate as follows:

First of all drive the car to normal engine temp and the thermostat has opened etc
Then to verify the correct idlespeed of the engine the following 4 steps should be taken with the vehicle being idled while stationary for approx 1-2 minute in each of the following conditions.
NOTE- DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR DURING ANY PERIOD OF THE 5 FOLLOWING ADAPTIVE PROCESSES.

1. Neutral with all electrical loads OFF.
2. Neutral with Air conditioning ON.
3. *Drive with all electrical loads OFF.
4. *Drive with Air conditioning ON.

After all this has been done then proceed to go on and to do these steps which actually set the TPS values;

5. *To set the closed throttle referance position , place the transmission
in Drive, Air con off, and let the engine idle for a minimum of 1 minute.
6. Next, set the wide-open throttle reference position by turning the
engine off- but leave the ignition switch to the "ON," position, ie;Idiot lights on etc, then press the accelerator
pedal to the floor and hold it their for 1 minute, minimum.
7. Then Place the gear selector to Park and switch off the ignition.
8. Drive the vehicle and check for proper shifting patterns.

*As a clarifying note, I guess that for steps 3, 4 & 5 you can place the car in D with the handbrake firmly applied.

thanks for that will try it tomorow

sorry i forgot to add its only for 4 sp auto not sure about manuals

Check your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve). This was the cause of my problems which I see as the same as yours. Easy way to check... Just undo the oil cap while engine is idling. It shouldnt suck air past the thread on the cap. If it does, you'll here it.

I dunno if strictly speaking incorrect timing would do this, but I know mine had a stutter taking off, and had a 'lag' till about 2000rpm.
Advanced the base timing and the problem is gone.
Also the box now shifts smoother when it's cold... weird...

i thought maybe timing we didnt check it after replacing the timing chain and head gasket .