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Flat spots on an AU 4.0 

 

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 Post subject: Flat spots on an AU 4.0
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 3:56 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Hi Guys

Running out of Ideas here. The car seems to be lagging upto about 3500 when it just kicks off. Until it reaches 3500 rpm there is flat spots that im tryin to get rid off. I have changed plugs, leads,tpc. It does idle rough and its really begining to s**t me up the tree.

HELP !!!!!!!

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:25 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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got the same prob dude!!! mine started the day i got extractors and hiflo cat fitted...

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:28 pm 
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mine had the same problems as well, replaced the oil/oil filter/fuel filter, and she's back to normal.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:41 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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try one of this methods.
* pull the hose of the map sensor. if the idle goes spastic. then its working ok.
* check your electrical wires, +positive from battery, -negative from battery and trace them. making sure they are tight & secure.
* check filters, air, oil, petrol, trans.

I've encounter those symptoms you've mention before. my problem was I wasn't getting enough current to the sparkies. every thing else was drawing the power. I fixed it with a "Auto Power Optimizer".

then it all depends on other factors as well. same symptoms but not related.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 11:45 pm 
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My AU had idle problems and I found on MY car at least the problem was vacuum leaks due to loose inlet manifold bolts down around cylinders 5 and 6 where the large electrical connection clips on. These inlet bolts are difficult to get to but the job is a lot easier by using a ratchet ring spanner (10mm Kincrome obtained at Bunnings) after unclipping the connector and moving it out of the way.
I hope that this may help
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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 7:46 am 
Parts Gopher
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Thanks guys will give it a try and let you know...

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:57 am 
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Is the BBM closing?

3500rpm is about the time the BBM switches from long to short runners. Just coincidental.

When is hits 3500rpm for the short runners, the fuel and ignition map changes. If you run the engine with the BBM open under 3500, the car will drive like a bag of s**t.
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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 12:45 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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s**t, never even thought of that!!

how would the best way be to check that?

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 1:02 pm 
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The_Jackal wrote:
s**t, never even thought of that!!

how would the best way be to check that?


Turn the car on.

See if the arm moves into the closed position once the car is running... Or even take the vaccum line off the actuator when the car is running and see if the arm moves up and down properly.

If it dont move, see if you have vaccum at the tube when its idling.

There is a one way valve attached to the vaccum lines near the soleonoid. I've had one fail on my car, and symptoms were as follows:

1. Accelerate hard... Car would take off ok, then performance would die, and when it 3500rpm car would take off again.
2. At the same time, the direction of air in the cabin would switch from whatever it was to windscreen and stay there.

What was happening is there would be plenty of vaccum at take off. Car would accelerate, vaccum in the engine would decrease. The one way valve that stops the vaccum resevoir from emptying in these conditions was broken, so it was causing the tank to empty. So the bbm valve opened again (its stored vaccum was not there to keep the valve closed), and i got crap performance. When it hit the 3500rpm opening mark, the engine went back to normal.

Its only a suggestion, but I have seen this happen to a few people on here in the last few months.
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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 1:10 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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ops, already explained

 

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Last edited by Slick on Wed Nov 23, 2005 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 1:17 pm 
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Slick wrote:
The_Jackal wrote:
s**t, never even thought of that!!

how would the best way be to check that?
start the engine, lift the bonnet, check the vacuum hose from the diaphragm making sure its not leaking air. use your hand to rev the engine and see if the plunger moves up & down.

good call arm79.


Thanks man... I knew i wasnt here just for my good looks 8-)

But revving it at standstill from idle wont make the actuator move. Not enough load on the engine to make the vaccum drop.

I suppose unless there is a massive leak.
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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 3:14 pm 
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got any pics cause mine does the same thing. I just want to be sure i am pulling the right thing apart :oops: :oops:

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 3:19 pm 
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also , a little off topic but, when i drive on the highway at about 100k's and i put my foot down slightly itstarts to rev up then it changes engine note and sounds like it's changing down a gear but it's not. I don't know what's going on. It also does it if i start to get up to 100 when it's in final gear. Hope you can understand my dribble and help me. All i know is that it changes exhaust note and dies alittle and PISSES me off

Please help

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 3:25 pm 
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Screamer wrote:
also , a little off topic but, when i drive on the highway at about 100k's and i put my foot down slightly itstarts to rev up then it changes engine note and sounds like it's changing down a gear but it's not. I don't know what's going on. It also does it if i start to get up to 100 when it's in final gear. Hope you can understand my dribble and help me. All i know is that it changes exhaust note and dies alittle and PISSES me off

Please help


Sounds like the torque converter just locking up. When it does lockup, the engine sounds like its labouring a bit, but its not, and the rpm will drop 250 or so at 100km/h when it happens.

Thats normal, you'll have to let it s**t ya. :D
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Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 4:04 pm 
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get a 5 speed... :D

i never looked back

 

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