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| ef2nv |
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Hi all,
I have a grinding noise coming from the front left tyre side of vehicle. The grinding noise only occurs when i am driving but when i turn right the noise goes or just fades away also the noise stops when i brake so it only happens when i am driving What could this problem be and how would i be able to fix it Any help is appreciated thank you |
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| TKFD |
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what car is it?
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| Pakrat |
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Most likely the wheel bearing, jack up the front of the car and put one hand at the top of the wheel and one at the bottom and rock it back and forth, if it moves in and out it's the wheel bearing, either repack or replace them. I'd replace both sides personally.
Should be some write ups on here somewhere. Search function is you're friend |
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| Johnson stroker |
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Sounds like a collapsed bearing, get in there pull the wheel and rotor, you will see it soon enough once you start pulling it down, easy at home job with basic tools as well.
_________________
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| ef2nv |
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dc_todd wrote: Sounds like a collapsed bearing, get in there pull the wheel and rotor, you will see it soon enough once you start pulling it down, easy at home job with basic tools as well. Oh ok so it would be a wheel bearing, the only thing is i changed it already when i installed new rotors but as you blokes have said tomorrow ill jack the car up and wriggle it alittle Could it be something else if it is not the wheel bearring? Cheers guys, |
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| tearlejc |
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ef2nv wrote: dc_todd wrote: Sounds like a collapsed bearing, get in there pull the wheel and rotor, you will see it soon enough once you start pulling it down, easy at home job with basic tools as well. Oh ok so it would be a wheel bearing, the only thing is i changed it already when i installed new rotors but as you blokes have said tomorrow ill jack the car up and wriggle it alittle Could it be something else if it is not the wheel bearring? Cheers guys, Possibly still is bearing - when you replaced the rotors, how tight did you do the nut up? Did you lock it in place with a splitpin? I'm thinking if you did it up too tight then it may have seized / galled the bearing....oh, and did you properly pack the new bearings with a good high quality bearing grease? (You DID use new bearings, didn't you?)
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
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| TKFD |
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Could also be warped rotors. Reason why noise stops when braking. Worth a check.
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| Pakrat |
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New rotors come with new cups installed, if you've re used you're old wheel bearings in the new rotor and haven't changed the cups it's destined to fail.
Did you re pack the bearings? You can also jack up the wheel and spin it. Sometime you can hear them grinding |
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| CPOCSM |
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If it has a stone guard on the front, could be some rubble stuck in between the guard and the disc. Unlikely though as it would be making a noise either way you turn the wheels.
Bearings are probably the culprit unfortunately... |
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| tearlejc |
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TKFD wrote: Could also be warped rotors. Reason why noise stops when braking. Worth a check. bearing problems may also stop when brakes are applied as it stabilises the disc / bearing enough to stop the noise but yes, you're correct, could also be a warped rotor..I imagine he'd also be complaining of a bad shudder as well tho..
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
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| phongus |
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tearlejc wrote: TKFD wrote: Could also be warped rotors. Reason why noise stops when braking. Worth a check. bearing problems may also stop when brakes are applied as it stabilises the disc / bearing enough to stop the noise but yes, you're correct, could also be a warped rotor..I imagine he'd also be complaining of a bad shudder as well tho.. If it's a warped disc, I would think it'll happen when turning in either direction. A few questions to the OP. You said your front left (I assume passenger side) has noise but goes away if you turn right? From my past experience with dying bearings, if the front passenger side bearing is busted and you turn left, the noise stops/goes quieter. This is due to less weight being placed on the front left wheel and therefore less force on the bearing as the weight of the car shifts to the right. Regards to braking, I agree with what tearlejc said about the rotors being stabised. A few more to the OP...who installed it. If a shop did the job recently, I'd take it back and ask them to have a look at the bearings. If you did it yourself...did you rotate the disc/hub while tightening the nut to 30Nm and did you undo the nut half a turn and tightened the nut up again but only finger tight or something stupidly small amounts of torque (4Nm or something)? As asked before, how well was the bearing packed with High Temp Bearing Grease?
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Esteven8 |
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phongus wrote: If you did it yourself...did you rotate the disc/hub while tightening the nut to 30Nm and did you undo the nut half a turn and tightened the nut up again but only finger tight or something stupidly small amounts of torque (4Nm or something)? As asked before, how well was the bearing packed with High Temp Bearing Grease? From the workshop manual. 'Tighten the nut to 30Nm undo 1/2 turn then torque to 15Nm while rotating the hub.' Did this last Friday myself. And I seriously pack the s**t out them with grease, an old tobacco tin is ideal for this. I also fill the grease/dust cap with grease before I put it back on.
_________________ dc_todd wrote: Cheap pads squeal like cheap hookers, and you can take that to the bank. Au Fairmont Ghia My (Old) 95 EF Wagon |
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| phongus |
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Esteven8 wrote: phongus wrote: If you did it yourself...did you rotate the disc/hub while tightening the nut to 30Nm and did you undo the nut half a turn and tightened the nut up again but only finger tight or something stupidly small amounts of torque (4Nm or something)? As asked before, how well was the bearing packed with High Temp Bearing Grease? From the workshop manual. 'Tighten the nut to 30Nm undo 1/2 turn then torque to 15Nm while rotating the hub.' Did this last Friday myself. And I seriously pack the s**t out them with grease, an old tobacco tin is ideal for this. I also fill the grease/dust cap with grease before I put it back on. Hmm always thought it was something smaller than 15Nm...thank you for the correction  .
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| ef2nv |
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Pakrat wrote: Most likely the wheel bearing, jack up the front of the car and put one hand at the top of the wheel and one at the bottom and rock it back and forth, if it moves in and out it's the wheel bearing, either repack or replace them. I'd replace both sides personally. Should be some write ups on here somewhere. Search function is you're friend I jacked up the car and did what you have said and the whole tyre was wriggling heaps of play then i went mechanics and he said it could be wheel bearings and ball joints alot of factors is this true? I then took of the tyre and did the same to the rotor and the rotor had abit of play to it? Could it be wheelbearings still? |
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| fiend |
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Yes.
Wheel bearings are in between the disk rotor and the stud thingy... There's a split pin through a nut... You should be able to see it.... Take the split pin out and take the locking washer thingy off... There will be a large nut. Grab a big spanner or something and tighten this until kind of hard. Wiggle rotor again. Still wiggly? Ball joints commonly go at the bit between the straight bit of metal from steering to the bit that turns the front wheel. If disk brake and wheel wobble vertically then most likely not the "tie rod end" (ball joint mentioned).... |
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