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| KWIKXR |
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Lol Troyman beat me to it, but he is spot on!!
Basically what he said, although i usually set TDC before removing the head to save doing it later on. Fit a new gasket, put the head back on, torque it up as per specs, put the cam in and match the keyway on the camshaft with the sprocket and push it on to the cam, fit rocker gear tighten sprocket and remember to take the zip ties off if you tie the chain to the sprocket (i remember reading about someone on here who forgot to take the zip ties off the chain and it made a mess  )But yeah hopefully the chain hasnt moved at all and skipped a tooth cause it could cause dramas |
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| NCIILANE |
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Too easy! Thanks fella's. That makes perfect sense.
I was careful to make sure that the chain hadn't moved at the base and that the sprocket remained in the same position. So fingers crossed it will all go good and I will have it all running by Sunday  Cheers
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| NCIILANE |
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Another question oh wise ones!
 What is recommended to clean the block deck before fitting the gasket and head? I probably should hit the water channels with a dremel tool as well considering they were pretty badly blocked up (have broken through them with a screw sriver). Also gunna give the cylinders a good blasting with compressor and high pressure air gun. Anything else I should be considering before fitting it all back up??? Cheers, Mick
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| basstrom_dave |
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Age: 36 Posts: 410 Joined: 27th Jul 2005 Ride: Mazda CX-5 & 96 EL Falcon Location: Adelaide |
i took an angle grinder with a wire brush to my old EB when i did that, block only
came up good without any scratches or anything, i would however block off the water and oil channels first, saves getting crap into them.Possibly not the best way but it worked, oh and watch for bits of wire coming off the brush and embedding themselves in to your hand or arm |
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| KWIKXR |
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I lightly used a air grinder with a very fine grinding pad attachment to clean all of the old gasket off as i didnt have any gasket remover spray on stuff and it was really stuck on, it was the original ford gasket which had done over 200,000kms
. But it worked very well, the block came out looking very sexy and clean lol. Didnt bother with the water channels or anything though but i guess it would pay to at least try and cover them up to stop all the s**t getting in there - i found out the hard way with all the s**t that got into the coolant reservior. I also scraped as much carbon as i could off the pistons but very carefully so that the bores werent touched as quite a bit of carbon was built up on the dish. Then blew the bores out with the airgun and then head as well to make sure - well i had to seeing as i had a go a with deburring the ports lol filings everywhere. Then just give the block deck a once over again with grease remover or methelated spirits to make sure the surface is as clean as possible, give it a minute to airdry then put the gasket on, fit the head etc. |
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| cjh |
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While the head is off, I'd be doing the Welsh plugs too. There are 5 on the exhaust side, 2 on the inlet side, and 1 on the back of the block ( remove g'box and flywheel/flexplate & block plate to replace ), all are 40mm.
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| NCIILANE |
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Would if I had the time. But I just need to get it up and running so I can get the pink slip done by the 20th.
The head looks like new now it has been "serviced". They even replaced the valve guides....all for $160.  I managed to grab an hour this arvo before it got dark and ran over the block deck with a small paint scraper....feelin nice'n'smooth now. Gunna give it a good clean up with the air gun in the morning, then a final clean up with some metho. fit it all up and then give everything (oil/water) a couple of flushes to clean out all the s**t that would have found it's way into the system from the cleaning process.
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| NCIILANE |
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I have a little problem...literally
 When I was pulling the old head off the other day, I removed the injector rail and I dropped a bloody injector hat down beside the engine. I moved the car today to make it easier to work on and expected to find it on the grass under the car, but no such luck. The friggin thing just seems to have dissapeared  When it comes time to fire it up tomorrow, I don't want such a tiny issue to get in my way from seeing how I went. All the local wreckers will be closed tomorrow, not sure if this will cause me any drama's if I put the injector rail on without an injector hat on 1 injector. (small piece of plastic that looks like a little hat with a hole in it  )Comments  Mick
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| TROYMAN |
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hmm i think it will still run..
but its best if it was there.. it might be on the k frame somewhere?? can you steel one from your other car?? the eb mont or have you sold it?? atleast that way you can get the na up and running and get another injector later on..?? |
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| NCIILANE |
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aaaarrrrggghhhh FFS! Got the head on, tensioned it all up, then went to fit the cam and rocker gear. All of the tappets were in a little bag tied to the rocker gear....also in the bag were these two f**k Attachment: IMG_1706.jpg [ 59.81 KiB | Viewed 167 times ] Attachment: IMG_1708.jpg [ 80.12 KiB | Viewed 154 times ] Now obviously these were removed when the head was shaved and funny thing was I was saying to the neighbour who was "helping me out" that when I have done the heads on my 351 a few years back, the heads had a couple of guide pins to line the heads up Well didn't I feel like a d**k when I opened the bag up and found them in there. I then went and checked my old head and sure enough, there were the 2 guide rings and it was all going so well Attachment: IMG_1705.jpg [ 91.36 KiB | Viewed 140 times ] Oh, and thanks for getting back to me troyman, I found the friggin injector hat sitting on top of the starter motor bracket  I also pulled out over 10 litres of mud Attachment: IMG_1701.jpg [ 178.16 KiB | Viewed 144 times ] My sons finally showing interest in cars....and as all good apprentices, was happy to deal with the s**t jobs Attachment: IMG_1702.jpg [ 176.57 KiB | Viewed 174 times ] Oh well, better news tomorrow I hope! Live and learn  Cheers, Mick
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| TROYMAN |
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no problem mick.
glad to help. wow dont you hate the oil when its that colour...
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| NCIILANE |
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I've also been told by a couple of people now, that I should put 5 litres of diesel in the engine, quickly turn it over and then drain it back out to clean the rest of the mud out of it.
Good idea....or is there a better way? I did buy 2 oil filters and 2 bottles of oil with the intention of filling it with cheap oil and running it for a week and then do a complete oil change with the good stuff. Whats best for removing the gastric coloured s**t from the engine???
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| KWIKXR |
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Man that sucks about the locating dowels for the head/block, guess your taking the head back off to put them back in? Lol it always seems to be little things that turn out to be a big issue when doing work on cars. Head came out looking pretty clean aye
 Hahaha cant believe the state of that oil, ive never seen oil that colour in my life, or was it just mud? Wouldnt have a clue about flushing the engine with diesel oil, i know you can get actual engine flush fluid but i have heard lots of people use diesel to the same effect. Good luck with the rest of the install!! |
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| TROYMAN |
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i would just use cheap oil and new filter..
run it for a couple of hundred kms and change the oil and filter again.. most of the milkyness is water and the little bit thats left should evaporate from the oil in a few days of engine heat but i would change it again soon after... |
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| NCIILANE |
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Better to stick to plan A then.....thanks fella's. I knew I bought 2 filters for a reason
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