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| TROYMAN |
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i would just use cheap oil and new filter..
run it for a couple of hundred kms and change the oil and filter again.. most of the milkyness is water and the little bit thats left should evaporate from the oil in a few days of engine heat but i would change it again soon after... |
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| NCIILANE |
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Better to stick to plan A then.....thanks fella's. I knew I bought 2 filters for a reason
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| TerroristGHIA |
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I always clean my blocks oil aglleries with petrol before re assembly. The deisel is a good idea. Put 2 litres in, crank for 5 secs, l;et it sit for 30 mins, then drain. Works a treat
Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| NCIILANE |
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So, So close to getting it running today......that was until I went and did this
 Attachment: IMG_1713 (Large).jpg [ 77.03 KiB | Viewed 147 times ] Attachment: IMG_1714 (Large).jpg [ 121.25 KiB | Viewed 148 times ] Attachment: IMG_1718 (Large).jpg [ 78.58 KiB | Viewed 130 times ] I was doing up the timing chain tensioner and all was going good until I felt a "crunch"  . f**k knows how I did it, the main outer bolt was only 3/4 the way in and was originally flush with the block.On a better note, I removed the head, again, and fitted the locating guide dowels. and everything else just seemed to fall into place......well, not really, it bloody took me all day to get it all back together again. Next time I'll leave it to the friggin professionals Attachment: File comment: Nicely shaved and now with locating dowels IMG_1711 (Large).jpg [ 120.44 KiB | Viewed 123 times ] Attachment: File comment: All together again.....well, almost IMG_1729 (Large).jpg [ 143.1 KiB | Viewed 129 times ] Hopefully I can find a wrecker who has a 3.9 I can pinch the timing chain tensioner from....or I'm screwed  Cheers, Mick
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| BenJ |
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Mate, I think the 3.9 tensioner is the same as a 4.0l.
Can anyone confirm? BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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| gogetta |
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yeah shouldnt be any difference
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| TROYMAN |
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the 3.9 and 4.0l tensioners are all the same...
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| cjh |
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Actually they are slightly different, the outer bolt part is different, but the internals are the same.
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| SpeedyED |
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Mick, did you pay attention to the Headgasket change that I did not too long ago?
It's in this section of the forum's somewhere in the pile of "papers" .A note that I should add, although it might not happen for you. After I did the head, when driving on the freeway at 100km's, the ED seems to surge, at the moment I'm running shell's VPower, and the surgeing is alot less, however, I think the ED is pinging, because I do here this kinda small backfiring when you touch the throttle very slightly, and that's with all the doors open, otherwise I don't notice anything. Reading a document that Voxace made, I noted that you could I THINK advance the timing abit more than standard, but it would mean that if doing so you would need to run a higher octane fuel. Well I think I've somehow taken the timing out of wack when doing that head change, and I still haven't gotten round to making sure that the timing is still correct, maybe that will be something for me to do today? My 1c worth for today .
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| NCIILANE |
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Thanks for the tips fella's.
Can you believe nobody I rang had a 3.9L I could rape to pinch the tensioner from  I end up ringing Pryce Engines back who serviced the head and they can get me a new one over night for $45...phew! Can anyone shed any light on why/how I could have busted it in the first place And secondly, do I need to remove the timing set to replace the tensioner as it seems to be connected to the chain guide it pushes against???Appreciate the help! Cheers, Mick
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| SpeedyED |
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ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/ed-head-gasket-replacement-t75307.html
Have a read. You have to take out the Radiator, those idler pulley's, Power Steering Pump Mount, undo all sump bolts EXCEPT the 2 at the very rear, just loosen them, Alternator Mount, and then it's just the timing cover bolts, that should reveal the timing section. Try and be carefull when you take the cover off, there is a plastic guide that is susceptible to falling down the sump, if your carefull enough to still save it, when you put the cover back on, I siliconed that guide on so it didn't come off when assembling it back together, might pay to replace the timing chain aswell, mine rattles at high RPM. If that guide does fall down the sump, don't stress, just go to ford and get a new one, I tried our local burson's, they don't sell that guide as single.
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| TROYMAN |
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when you pulled the tensioner out did you just undo the big bolt and remove the tensioner?
or did you lock the tensioner before you un did the bolt?? as the tensioner has a locked position to be in before you put it back in.. then you release the tension with a 3mm allen key.. ill post up a pic for you soon |
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| NCIILANE |
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Thanks Troyman,
I just finished reading your thread Speedy ........you poor bastard, you had more drama's than I did, and I thought I was doing it tough  But good news from what I have read is I don't need to remove the timing cover and all that crap. I just need to pick up my new tensioner tomorrow and fit it correctly. In hindsight, I wish I didn't remove it in the first place, was not necessary from what I have learnt To answer your question Troyman, yeah I removed the whole tensioner (piston is still at the end against the timing guide, luckily). When I went to release the centre bolt, the whole lot just came out, and because of my curious nature, I decided it would be a good idea to remove the f**k When I put it back in, I didn't lock it together, which is why I broke the bugger.One good thing to come from all of this is that I have learnt a hell of a lot about the ford straight six....more that I ever wanted to know I'll just pick up my new one tomorrow, get some advise from the experts on fitting it all in properly, and I should be on my way to rego time  Cheers, Mick
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| SpeedyED |
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NCIILANE wrote: Thanks Troyman, I just finished reading your thread Speedy ........you poor bastard, you had more drama's than I did, and I thought I was doing it tough Yep, thought I should soften you up  That was exactly what I did, I removed the whole tensioner, it isn't neccessary, but I've learnt that even if you take the whole sucker out, it still releases the tensioner , although I have to somehow do something about that middle bolt, because every time I go to undo that bolt, the whole thing comes out, not just the one singular bolt, because I swear I still need to tension that tensioner properly, my only worry at the moment is my timing, which I must have somehow taken way out of wack, it's retarded from what I know so far, but the bloke (I'll leave him unnamed ) told me to double check here, hence why I posted not too far down from this very thread itself  .
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| TROYMAN |
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thats good news mate. atleast you got another one thats the main thing..
i got a few pics just incase your not sure. you need something like this to release the tensioner from its compressed position once it has been fitted.. its a long reach 3mm allen key with a 12mm tube. Attachment: DSC01316.JPG [ 43.82 KiB | Viewed 120 times ] to release it you need to fit the tensioner in the compressed position and fit the large outer part of the tensioner bolt.(with the centre bolt removed) once its tight you insert the steel tube and allen key into the centre together and push in and rotate it anti clock wise and the tensioner will release puting tension back on the cam chain.. then you put the centre bolt back in and your back in buisnes...... this is what the complete tensioner looks like in its compressed position(no tension) Attachment: DSC01318.JPG [ 38.9 KiB | Viewed 122 times ] this is what it looks like in its released position.. Attachment: DSC01321.JPG [ 52.35 KiB | Viewed 110 times ] this it what it looks like disassembled.. Attachment: DSC01322.JPG [ 58.03 KiB | Viewed 125 times ] hope this helps??? |
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