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Head replacement. STUCK 

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:57 am 
Smokin em up
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Location: Katoomba
NSW, Australia

A good crack straight on the bolt head for the shock treatment and I use nothing but quality sockets. get one that fits too tight even if you have to use the hammer to get it on properly and then I use an adapter with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with galvanised water pipe extension. If it wont let go tighten to crack and then undo. The main thing is to concentrate on pulling so the socket doesnt twist. Never had one I couldnt get but be warned when the let go they let go.
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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 9:53 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

stuff useing a grinder use a good sharp cold chisel to knock the heads of the bolts offdone it before of a xf the rest of the stuff is no good heat on a alui head???? weld a nut on the bolt to bad bout the splatter stuck to every thing just use a cold chisel the but i would try and use wd40 leave it soak and spay again
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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:02 am 
Getting Side Ways
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i had this problem a couple of days ago i did the following:

used a 13mm single hex and continuously hammered till the bolt peeled approx 3/4 then used a 1/2inch single hex impact socket and finished knocking it on till it was down flat and so tight you cant remove with ur hand (some filing sped up the proccess) popped on the breaker and off she came... after having to do thid twice i went and got a GOOD quality 14mm impact socket and removed the rest no dramas problem is always s**t tools
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:01 am 
Parts Gopher
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[quote="dc_todd"]yeah your right, grind the top of the bold off, lift the head over then, then get 2 bolts, lock one on the other and remove, if the bolt snaps, then your in for a world of fun removing them, what socket are you using and how many points is it?[/quote

Can you explain exactly how you would get in there to grind the heads off?????
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Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:26 pm 
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I have all the bolts out bar one. The old head is completely destroyed. I had to grind the heads off of three bolts. The last bolt was so covered in carbon that you could only see the thread on the part that screws into the block. This bolt is still stuck in the block.

I replaced all the welsh plugs this morning except the one in front of the gear box. I'll probably throw a 5speed in as well seeing as I'm doing everything now and everything removed due to needing room because i had such a hard time getting it all apart. Anyone got a full conversion kit for me? Or recommend a place to get one taking price into account. Ive got another 2 weeks to get it all done so i may as well do it now.

Im gonna start drilling the bolt out in an hour or so, ill probably go get a new set of drill bits though because i dont want any snapping off in the bolt and mine arent too flash now cos i drill into heaps of steal at work. I think this is the only method i can use to get it out as the bolt is only sticking out of the block now by about 20mm and using a wrench just twists the bolt.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:31 am 
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Location: Mount Gambier
SA, Australia

just thinking, Would Easy-outs work on headbolts?

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 1:26 pm 
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Easy outs arent for removing stuck bolts. Theyre for removing bolts that have snapped off, and arent actually corroded in. On a 7/16 head bolt, youd probably only use a 8mm or smaller easy out, which isnt as strong as the bolt. If youve got the head off, which it sounds like you have, then heat the block with an oxy around that head bolt. Give it a few more hard cracks with a hammer (dont go too big or too small with hammer choice, you want something that will shock it, not drive it through the block) and try getting it out then. Head bolts have a fair amount of thread engagement, so youd want to be extremely careful if you were to drill it out by hand. If everything else is off, and you want to do the trans, its only another few bolts to remove the block. Take it to a small machining shop, and they should be able to drill it out properly for you. Loctite freeze off is the only other thing that might be useful, as you can actually get to the area that needs freezing since the head os removed, but best of luck whatever way you go! Let this be a lesson to everyone, always oil head bolts before installation :)

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:34 pm 
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Hey guys just a quick update. I had to get the thread doc out and he put a helicoil in the head. Once that was done i had the car back together in only a few hours and no shes up and running again. It cost about $140 for him to do that. He said he was surprised that it was only one bolt, he said he does HEAPS of older ford heads cos all the bolts are pricks to get out.

Overall it was expensive. but save d a s**t of cash doing it myself. now i just have to flush out that horrible radiator

 

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