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Head replacement. STUCK 

 

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 Post subject: Head replacement. STUCK
Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 3:59 pm 
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Gday fellas. the head on my ED I6 is cracked and I'm in the process of replacing it now with my old man as he has done them before.

The head bolts are stuck. And i mean stuck.

The rattle gun doesn't get them off.

Neither does a 3 foot bar on the end of a ratchet, the socket will just slip off the top before it gets them out

Having said that, we have got 5 of the 12 out earlier today using the gun or pole. I'm thinking maybe when the car was sold to me it had a small leak and they have just been done up really tight to stop it for a while. That seems to be the idea ive been given from my old man and a mechanic also?

Hone of the bolts appeared to be compressed around 2/3 of the way down and was covered in a carbon, which im tipping isn't really helping the cause.

I've given them a hefty tap around with a hammer in an attempt to loosen them, but not a thing happens.

What are my options now? I've heard i can just grind the bolt heads off carefully since ill be replacing them anyway but im not entirely sure how to go about it.

Thanks

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 4:29 pm 
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yeah your right, grind the top of the bold off, lift the head over then, then get 2 bolts, lock one on the other and remove, if the bolt snaps, then your in for a world of fun removing them, what socket are you using and how many points is it?

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 4:41 pm 
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Honestly, install the rest of the head bolts, tighten them up (TIGHT) and then have a crack at the problem bolt.

This usually happens when the bolts are removed in no sequence, rather than loosened in sequence.

Always use a single hex socket and use a breaker bar, not a ratchet.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 7:46 pm 
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i actually have this same problem and was thinking of doing the whole grind the head bolts off. i've tried everything. and rounded a few.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 7:55 pm 
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I know i'm stating the obvious here, but there are some stupid people out there who have done some crazy s**t.

Anyway, my point is, if grinding the bolts out, don't fill the engine with the debri/sparks etc. Stuff rags in everywhere you can.

Like i said, obvious i know, but i've heard of people doing crazier s**t.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 8:57 pm 
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If you grind the top of the head bolts off,you still wont be able to lift the head off because there is not enough clearance for the head.It will hit the firewall as you lift it up.(i wouldnt recommend any grinding near an open engine either this will cause debre to be entering the engine and will cause engine failure).

Also stated earlier always use a single hex socket with a half inch breaker bar with a pipe.Never use a rattle gun to loosen the head bolts.

I have done many falcon heads and i have had a few where they were tight very tight.I have never ever rounded one off.(I'm a mechanic by trade.)

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:47 pm 
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Sorry mate, it was a like a breaker bar then a pole on it. Didnt have the ratchet, couldn't think of the name! :)

We actually tried the breaker bar first then tried the gun. I will try putting the other bolts back in then trying the problem bolts. However i did try to loosen them in some sort of sequence (not realizing there was a propper one?)

Ill probably avoid doing any grinding until absolutely necessary, but from what you say KRUPTD its probably not going to work as there isnt enough clearance?

I went and bought a 5 point hex socket cos all my sidchrome ones have heaps. My dads mate who is a mechanic said use a new 5point Socket, so i went with that. What a pain in the a*** this has become!

Thanks for all the quick responses, Im going riding for 4 days tomorrow morning so it'll give me some time to get over the frustration that todays failure brought on haha. :lol:

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:47 pm 
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I only had problems when i failed to use a single hex impact socked with breaker bar.
Rattle gun seems to snap them or strip the heads

if you stuck put a million rags over the head covering it up except the bolt your cutting and cut straight down the center of the bolt head and get shizzle and knock the heads off the bolts or if you go a oxy on had and head getting replaced cover the head in rags and use the oxy to cut the head off be hell quicker.

and after u get the head off id highly sugges getting some $9 oil and poor it down the oil drain in the block to wash any dabree down to the sump and hopefully out the bung which most wont do maybe pop sump off to clean or just wack a new oil filter in and reply on the filter and maybe change it after engine running for hour.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:50 pm 
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also when u use the new socket get some grinding paste on the bolt head it stops the socket from slipping. it a little trick i learned from mechanics at work

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 2:35 am 
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Well the worse thing happened to me when i tried using a kick a*** breaker with a 6 point socket.
THe bastard just kept slipping up off the top no matter how hard i tried.
Now i may have one or 2 fair rounded head bolts. Hm. FAIL.
I Tried some of the freeze off gear aswell and that didnt work.
Worse headjob i've ever had.
Any suggestions on what i could do?
Hijack over.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:34 am 
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a little bit of heat can work wonders put to oher bolts back in put the rocker cover on and run the engine til its hot then put ur socket on one of the stuck ones with the brecker bar and hit the bar with a big hammer
good luck
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Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:44 pm 
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There is one way you can try which is better than grinding.(There is also no need to reinstall the removed head bolts)

Clean up the socket with some emory cloth or on the wire brush also clean up the head of the bolt which needs to be removed and then clean them with brake clean.

Then weld (with a decent mig welder) the socket to the head bolt,weld it all around and then using the breaker bar loosen it.This should do the trick and also will not fill the motor up with metal debre,just make sure you cover the oil passages and water passages and also the front timing chain area.
(the heat from the welding will help in aid to free the siezed bolt and also by welding the socket gives you very good leverage to loosen the bolt)

Make sure you disconnect the battery before you weld.

The only down side to this is that you will need more than one socket.I have done this once before on a old 202 had a similar drama.This method is also great for removing locknuts from wheels that you dont have the lock nut key for.
See how you go.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 11:41 pm 
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heat up the block a little and maybe pack a little ice around the bolt

drill the center out of the bolts?

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:56 pm 
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i have this problem as well at the mo .
not all falcon heads have allen bolts.would help if they were both :x
went to bunnings today and they have a socket style setup for $56 exy
i have welded flat bar to bolts and undone them with a massive shiffter in the past.
weld on a spanner and use a breaker bar
i would be wary of no brand sockets and bars snaping and craking,expensive sockets might be harder to weld?
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Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 4:22 pm 
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i 'just' fired up my car after some major new stuff including a head swap over the last few days.

i had 6 of the bolts seize on me, even rounded 3 of them a bit, in bent a solid .5m breacker bar, read through the many threads on here about it and did the following.

0. BUY a 14mm single hex (six sided) IMPACT SOCKET
1. hammer the s**t out of the bolt head (avoid head itself)(supposeddly loosens the thread)
2. spray wd40 liberaly on the bolt and around the base.
3. wait like 5 mins
4. repeat 1
5. undid bolts amazingly easily

if that doesnt work i spose you can try the welding nuts on trick etc.

p.s i put all the unstuck bolts back in to lessen the heads pull on the problem ones to undo them

 

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