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Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:16 pm 
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Port matching works a treat, gets the air speed constant.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:50 pm 
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i think match porting would be alot more benificial than polishing intakes, i see the vapourisation arguement but i still can't see polished ports being a big issue.
a high velocity intake should vapourise any amount of fuel in any enviroment when sprayed in at the force of a stock injector.
polishing increases the effective diameter of the port because as someone else mentioned the air forms a 'gasket' of different velocity air causing a loss in effective diameter of air entering the engine, with polished sirfaces this doesn't happen & while may not make a diff in stockas might make alot of difference later on i think.
just my 2 cents though nothing on paper.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:20 pm 
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As said above, you polish chambers, piston tops and exhaust ports to as close to a mirror finish as possible to help prevent carbon build up and heat pickup. For the intake port, a bit of a rough finish helps generate a thin turbulent layer of air near the walls. You want the turbulence there because as the fuel droplets approach the walls they will be further atomised instead sticking to the wall.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:20 pm 
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vibr8n wrote:

a high velocity intake should vapourise any amount of fuel in any enviroment when sprayed in at the force of a stock injector.
polishing increases the effective diameter of the port because as someone else mentioned the air forms a 'gasket' of different velocity air causing a loss in effective diameter of air entering the engine, with polished sirfaces this doesn't happen & while may not make a diff in stockas might make alot of difference later on i think.
just my 2 cents though nothing on paper.

The benefit of rough intake is it creats a slipstream between the slow moving air on the surface. it'll narrow the air stream but its moving at a higher velocity then a mirror polished port.

The next time you drive a car in the rain, notice that when the car is going 100 KMH, the rain drops go up the hood of the car at walking speed. That's because the smooth surface of the car creates what's known as a boundary layer, and the portion of that layer of air that's nearest to the surface is almost still.

The same thing happens inside an intake port. Except instead of raindrops, it's fuel droplets that will run down the port wall slower than the air. That causes a serious change in the fuel air mixture by the time it reaches the cylinder.

And you are right with port matching, theres a minute amount of gain but beneficial to the whole package if done right.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:59 am 
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moody wrote:
a head recondition will give you an acid bath, new valve stem seals, they will re-set your valve springs/tappets as they are hydraulic, and they will also lap you valve seats. ontop of this you will get it machined/decked aswell.


- Can I buy the acid for an acid bath?

- How hard would it be to put in new stem seals and reset my valve spring/tappets?

- What do you mean by lap the valve seats?

- It is a standard ED head and as far as I know it has never been off, so how much can I get it shaved (I assume the head people know this but I will ask anyway)?

- Can I use an AU head gasket?


stockstandard wrote:
As said above, you polish chambers, piston tops and exhaust ports to as close to a mirror finish as possible to help prevent carbon build up and heat pickup. For the intake port, a bit of a rough finish helps generate a thin turbulent layer of air near the walls. You want the turbulence there because as the fuel droplets approach the walls they will be further atomised instead sticking to the wall.


- Should I do anything to the intake port walls while the head is off?

- How do I polish the chambers?

- How do I polish the piston tops?

- How do I polish the exhaust ports?

Sorry about all the questions. Again I have tried to set them out as nicely as possible. This will be my first engine rebuild, I am doing it as a learning experience so that I do not screw up my EL ticky motor when I have time to do it. I think I should be fine for the first half as I have done a head gasket before.

- Also, assuming that I can acid wash the head myself, what else can I acid wash?

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:05 am 
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your jeans?

seriously mate just take it to the pro's to get the head "hot tanked" and bead blasted.

By all means give the diy-reco a go at home, but have some help and guidance from someone in the know. Also if your asking these questions its probably fair to assume you don't own the necessary tools. May not be worth buying such tools if you're only going to use them once or twice. This is why there are places that specialise in heads.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 7:19 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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the reason I want to know is so I can rebuild my ED motor as practice for my EL motor. So I wanna rebuild then sell/store in shed my ED motor, so I dont want to spend much rebuilding it. Full rebuild costs 1500ish I believe, so If I DIY it I can buy any necessary tools (already have most) and rebuild 2 motors (and learn lots) for less than the price of a rebuild.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 8:39 pm 
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i dont know what the actuall acid is so i dont know if you can buy it.
if you buy/make a valve spring compressor you can remove the springs/valves yourself
i dont know how to reset so i cant help you there
with re seating /lapping the valves you get a bit of FINE 1200 valve grinding paste, put a very thin layer evenly smeared onto the valve face and twist it left to right in 180* turns for about 4-5 turns each way, it really just polishes it and gets out those very tiny scratches so there is an absolute seal with no air passing through. very easy to do aswell
and yes you can use an au gasket but from my understanding, non-genuine ford au gaskets have the same listing as ea-el gaskets and are fibre gaskets, only the genuine ford au gaskets are steel ones.
and with shaving id say 10thou would give you about an extra 0.05 to your comp ratio. dunno what the limits is but it wouldnt be too high.
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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:17 pm 
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give it a shot, ive got a spare head at home and ive been stuffing around with it, plenty of guides on the net.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:53 pm 
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well explained, thanks fellas.

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:31 am 
Getting Side Ways
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thanks for the support Molloy and thanks for that info moody.

Still want to know:

- How do I install new valve stem seals?

- How do I reset the valve springs/tappets?

- How do I give the head an acid bath?

- What else can I acid bath (not really into acid wash jeans thanks aaron :) while the engine is in pieces and I am cleaning the head?

- Do I acid bath each part of the head when it is all apart?

- How do I polish the chambers?

- How do I polish the piston tops?

- How do I polish the exhaust ports?

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:18 am 
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its f**k acid dude! you need equipment to put it in and stuff. and the EPA get real shirty about it all.

if you get an old gas hot water service and cut the top third off and fix it all up, fill with acid and heat. thats how we clean two stroke zorsts. should clean the head.

BUT ITS f**k ACID!

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:44 am 
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willygrice wrote:
the reason I want to know is so I can rebuild my ED motor as practice for my EL motor. So I wanna rebuild then sell/store in shed my ED motor, so I dont want to spend much rebuilding it. Full rebuild costs 1500ish I believe, so If I DIY it I can buy any necessary tools (already have most) and rebuild 2 motors (and learn lots) for less than the price of a rebuild.


Full rebuilds are not necessary. I keep telling everyone that in order to do these jobs who have to know what you are determining actually needs to be rebuilt or replaced and the criteria for it! The only way you can do this is with proper top quality measuring equipment. Verniers, micrometers, dial guage and block and bore guages, spring testers, a press are all necessary yet the list just goes on. Most people don't have access to this stuff.

Get the head services done at a shop. It isn't that expensive and they will do it properly. But i must laugh at your $1500 total rebuild estimate. That would be doing minimal services and using the cheapest kit possible with the least replacement parts!

Doing a practice build is a waste of money that would be better spent going directly into your EL motor.

Read through my SVO post as there is a link in there to an old autospeed article that should answer alot of your questions. But basically you need a die-grinder and a compressor to run it plus about $200 in materials (burrs and rolls) to get the "polishing" happening. Some of the other polishing to which you refer can be done quicker by commercial metal polishers (eg: piston crowns).

HTH

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:58 pm 
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I'll try not to say too much but basically pollishing the intake port is a bad thing. Air speed is lost and the fuel will condense on the port wall (as already mentioned). Slow speed with an 80 grit flap wheel along the entire intake port is what's required and for the record, port matching is the least power gain you can retrieve when compared to the other avenues like bowl work. Things have to be way off track before you'll make a large gain from port matching.
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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:09 pm 
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snortingboost wrote:
Air speed is lost and the fuel will condense on the port wall


Fuel will condence on the port wall, what???

Let see, an engine running at 1,500rpm, has a cam rpm of 750 rpm, so that means the inlet valve is opening and closing at 12.5 times per second, so when will the fuel get a chance to sit there???
Ever heard of K-Jetronic fuel injection???? K means constant. It doesn't pulse, its a constant stream, just the volume changes.

 

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