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HELP!!!! car over heating EF 

 

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 Post subject: HELP!!!! car over heating EF
Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:44 pm 
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Hey guys i went out for a drive with a mate and we started to race around back roads them my car started to heat up FAST so i stopped

and i noticed that my thermos arnt running and the temp guage it right up on the N on normal right next to the red line?
ive looked at the thremo fuse and it seemed fine

any idea i cant even drive 700m without having to pull ove and sit for 5-10 mins to cool down again and also u can hear on the top of the radiator near the air intake a LOUD ticking noice from the actual radiator

WTF happening

anyone got any idea on what i should do???

ive got the car home and im ganna let it sit for the night and see how she runs in the morning but something if f**k

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:55 pm 
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sounds like the coolant reached its boiling point.

was there enough coolant in the system?

if you drove along a road at 70kph+ the car should have cooled down anyways from the air flow. if it doesnt do that, then your radiator is probably blocked (falcons are known for this due to a s**t design which enables sediment to slowly build up at the bottom of the radiator)

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:04 pm 
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ok

yer umm 2 days ago i dropped the coolant and put new coolant in and ever since then ive been topping up the bottle cause the light comes on after every drive and yes there was a stronger doase then what the bottle said (Im not ganna lie Ive been Trashing the poor girl Ripping massive burnouts and drifting, power slides just having some fun in her)
I was planning on carming down and driving her more slowerly and nicerly but it allways goes wrong on the last day LOL

Well ill go to supercheap tomorrow and buy some good coolant then
fu(king useless coolant i knew i should of purchased the expensive brand one

so what do i do to the radiator pull it out and take it to a radiator flush place or do i need a recon/new one???

 

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Ford EF Futura Black
18" koya Strykers, AU engine with port and polish EB head, crow valve springs, standard cam, Large aftermarket RX7 turbo, T5 manual 3" intercooler piping, 600x300x100 intercooler core, MSII with innovate wideband O2 sensor and guage. BA F6 bodykit

Last edited by Xflow on Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:05 pm 
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also whats the story with no thremos????

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:32 pm 
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The car might be saying if I don't play up now this driver of mine gonna kill himself & right me off.

Did it happen after you done a flush & refill?
you might have air trapped in the block causing massive hot spots{damage}

take the whole car to get flush & pressure tested.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:43 pm 
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it started to become a problem after i changed the coolant i think
might of created some air holes when it looses coolant.

I guess ill top up the lvl's and and check the thermo relay and fuses and give it a run like that and if problems continue i think about droping into a radiator place or something

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 12:06 am 
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it's not the coolant . Could be water pump or worse, as indicated above what happens when you take out the thermostat? (BUT do not leave thermostat out full time)
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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:16 am 
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anyone know if the 2 thremos on the radiator actually cool the water or not? cause they havn't even turned on that i can recall on

i topped up my radiator today and it must of gone threw a s**t load of water, took some time to fill up again
Ive got it running out the back yard and ganna see if it over heats just sitting there ideling

Quote:
it's not the coolant . Could be water pump or worse, as indicated above what happens when you take out the thermostat? (BUT do not leave thermostat out full time)


Water pump what could be wrong with that?

yer if it over heats ill try removing my thermo stat and see how it goes if runs fine ill get a new one

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:34 am 
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Xflow wrote:
anyone know if the 2 thremos on the radiator actually cool the water or not?


they come on when required. if your stuck in traffic you should hear them turn on and off as the motor heats up, whereas if your cruising down the freeway the motor should be getting sufficient air flow and they're not needed.

when you flushed out your system, did you use any of the radiator flush stuff? you know, the stuff that claims to unclug your system, ive used that stuff once and it ended up doing more harm than good.

like some others said, go get the system flushed and pressure tested. that will turn up any nasties.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:36 am 
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Quote:
fu(king useless coolant i knew i should of purchased the expensive brand one


Buying expensive coolant wont fix your problem. Coolant will not prevent your car from overheating if the cooling system is faulty. In fact most australian car don't need coolant only corrosion inhibitor.

You need to find the fault first.

Thermos provide air flow through the radiator at low speeds and when stationary. Check the thermo relays as well as the fuse.

Remove the thermostat, then drop it in some boiling water and see if it opens.

Check water pump by see if hot coolant is returning to the header tank.

Remove radiator and check for debris between the radiator and the AC condenser.

Finally have radiator professionally cleaned or replace it.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:44 am 
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yer i has a mess around with the car and fixed the thremos but man they don't really go that fast u can't even hear them over the motor ideling unlike all my other cars.

I was thinking about getting a new thermo stat and all new radiator hoses
and been looking on ebay at them alloy radiators

Some one told me to not to buy a not genuine thermo stat because they run the motor to cold and then car goes threw more fuel

and anyone used one of them alloy radiators??? any good?? or not worth it

 

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18" koya Strykers, AU engine with port and polish EB head, crow valve springs, standard cam, Large aftermarket RX7 turbo, T5 manual 3" intercooler piping, 600x300x100 intercooler core, MSII with innovate wideband O2 sensor and guage. BA F6 bodykit

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:54 am 
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Only use a genuine thermostat! Make sure its the right temp 92º.

Yes I have used them on alloy radiators, my EL had a genuine 92º thermostat with a new Natrad radiator and never overheated or ran too cold.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 11:42 am 
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hey guys
when they do a pressure test do they hook it up to your over flow bottle and it like a socker ball pump just a bit larger and pump the system with air to create pressure to find leaks???


if thats all they do ill take my car to work carfully and do it at work (im a apprentice mechanic at metro nissan brisbane
just i know nothing about cooling systems yet thats why im a first year apprentice.

I would of talked to the guys at work but it a weekend so im restricted to hasseling u guys lol

but u guys have been great

 

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18" koya Strykers, AU engine with port and polish EB head, crow valve springs, standard cam, Large aftermarket RX7 turbo, T5 manual 3" intercooler piping, 600x300x100 intercooler core, MSII with innovate wideband O2 sensor and guage. BA F6 bodykit

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:11 pm 
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That how I've seen it done before. Either a hand pump or a air line with a gauge.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:40 pm 
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Yer we got a pump at work with psi guage and we pump about 80psi into the system or brake fluid system what evere need to be tested for leaks

 

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18" koya Strykers, AU engine with port and polish EB head, crow valve springs, standard cam, Large aftermarket RX7 turbo, T5 manual 3" intercooler piping, 600x300x100 intercooler core, MSII with innovate wideband O2 sensor and guage. BA F6 bodykit

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