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HELP!! Just fitted extractors, get too hot, melting wires!! 

 

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 Post subject: HELP!! Just fitted extractors, get too hot, melting wires!!
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:26 am 
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i just fitted some extractors ( they are unpainted, i dont know if this contributes? ), and they get way too hot, if the engine is cold you start it and withing 20-30 seconds they are so hot you cant touch them already, i thought the car might have the wrong heat range plugs ( as the car was on gas till i got it and im ripping it all out as i dont like gas ) after chatting with dellboy so i pulled one out and its a NGK R BRE527Y which repco told me are the standard plug for a ed 4 litre so i guess that rules that out? could the plugs be buggered? they ara bit black, very black actually, even a bit of black up the porcelin, im not sure what the problem is it cant be normal if the heat is going to start melting nearby wires and no they arent that close they are running along the inside of the strut tower next to the clutch cable which i have had to cable tie with them to keep it from melting too... a 10 minute drive gets the wires smouldering, lol, someone please help!!!! i also have a ef heatsheild i bent to fit but it doesnt cover enough of the extractors...
Thanks lads

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:40 am 
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just get some heat wraps
e- bay buddy work a treat

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:54 am 
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I've heard that putting heat wrap on extractors makes them weaker or something as the heat can't get off them or some crap like that. I dunno. But maybe the heat wrap can be put on the wiring instead of the extractors just to be sure?
And it's not suprising that it's quickly getting too hot to touch!
The wiring it's melting is it aftermarket wiring or factory wires?
I'm suprised your having issues.I've got wiring that I've added in everywere and LPG gear and other crap and I've never had any issues with mine - i also have EF heatshield over them./

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:59 am 
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dude

my extrators get hot with 10 secs! it is normal
any chance of moving the wires further away?

and heat wrap or another heat shield!

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 12:33 pm 
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If it is worth anything to you, ACL from National Parts, sell the material to make heat sheilds and that. Most autostores sell there gaskets so could prolly get it in for you or keep it, if need be and you want to make a custom heatshield...

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:21 pm 
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i just put on a ef heatshield and moved the wires as far away as i could, i also got another ef heatshield to add on the bottom, i will let you all know how it goes...
cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:59 pm 
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Which wires are being melted , is it the high tension leads or actual wiring to electrical circuits. :?:

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 2:10 pm 
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the plastic tubing that covers all the electrical wires that run along the inside of the strut tower just above the chassis rail and crossmember, they havent melted yet but the plastic tubing around them got hot enough to start getting sticky and that was only after a 10 minute floggin...
thanks

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 3:43 pm 
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AU headshields fit most extractors pretty well
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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:56 pm 
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Pulled all the plugs out guys, they were black as black can be, couple burnt to a crisp, and what i noticed putting new ones in which surprised me and can someone tell me if it could have been the problem? was that the spark gaps were at least twice the size of the new pre gapped plugs....
Cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:03 pm 
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Yikes.
That's never good!
Check the gaps yourself, 'pre-gapped' can be a bit misleading.
I always check mine before screwing them in.
Another thing I just thought of, what's your base ignition timing like?
drastically retarded timing can bump exhaust temps up a fair bit.
Ask my old catalytic converter... he's in a bin somewhere!

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:18 pm 
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Steady ED wrote:
Yikes.
That's never good!
Check the gaps yourself, 'pre-gapped' can be a bit misleading.
I always check mine before screwing them in.
Another thing I just thought of, what's your base ignition timing like?
drastically retarded timing can bump exhaust temps up a fair bit.
Ask my old catalytic converter... he's in a bin somewhere!


I havent check the timing yet as i dont have a timing light, the gaps are all good, im going to advance the timing a touch, the motor seems to have a lil knock aswell could this also be a sign of retarding timing?
it revs fine and runs great etc i dont think its a knock like my bottom end is going to fall apart...
Cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:22 pm 
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I dunno if a knock is a symptom of excessively retarded timing.
I know when mine had cerebral palsy, it didn't like to rev out at all.
Like it would hit a brick wall at 4500rpm :x
And be generally sluggish.
If you can borrow a timing light, just to completely elimate it.
Cause my extractors are unshielded, and I've got rubber heater lines to my converter running bloody close, and they never get that hot.
Also an audio power cable running down near the number 6 cylinder pipe, and it's fine.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:25 pm 
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Felony wrote:
Steady ED wrote:
Yikes.
That's never good!
Check the gaps yourself, 'pre-gapped' can be a bit misleading.
I always check mine before screwing them in.
Another thing I just thought of, what's your base ignition timing like?
drastically retarded timing can bump exhaust temps up a fair bit.
Ask my old catalytic converter... he's in a bin somewhere!


I havent check the timing yet as i dont have a timing light, the gaps are all good, im going to advance the timing a touch, the motor seems to have a lil knock aswell could this also be a sign of retarding timing?
it revs fine and runs great etc i dont think its a knock like my bottom end is going to fall apart...
Cheers
If its knocking then it must be running lean or a bit to much advance. retard you timing so it'll stop the knock & minimize the heat a bit.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:05 pm 
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ya cat isn't blocked is it.................
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