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high stall torque converters 

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 11:14 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Convertor costs around $450-500 a bit cheaper than the dominator ones which are $5-600. There was a good improvement in the firmness of the stall convertor engaging (if that makes sense) because as I said the stock convertor is designed to be smooth. Couldn't tell you about acceleration as I matched it to my new engine specs (never ran the stock convertor with these engine specs). If you can justify the cost, IMO an aftermarket 2500rpm stall is a good investment especially if you have a few mods, but you would need a pretty severe cam to need anything more than 2500rpm.
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 11:19 pm 
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so i should prolly get a dyno done and then take the sheet to an auto shop and find out which is best?
what happens witht this limp thing?

e6

 

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looking for a decent 351 and wondering how im gonna get it set up in my AU????

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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 11:31 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Yeah go get a dyno to be sure but with the stage 3 crow cam the recommendation will probably be around 2200rpm. A 2500rpm will still be fine and might give you a bit more performance especially with the 3.9's.

The trans has a sensor which detects slip I beleive. The computer sees too much slip and thinks there is something wrong in the trans so goes into limp home mode.
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Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 11:50 pm 
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Ride: AU III XR6 ute (FULLY SIC)

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Automatic Transmission Solenoid Valves
The PCM drives the Transmission Hydraulic Valve Body via the 7 Solenoid Valves.

Solenoids 1 to 6 are mounted in the Hydraulic Valve Body.
Solenoid 7 is mounted in the Pump Cover.



S1 and S2 Gear Select Solenoids:
S1 and S2 Solenoids are "Normally Open", On/Off Solenoids.
They are used in a combination to select the Required Gear.
If the Solenoids do not operate, a Fault Code will log into the PCM.



Gear Selected S1 Solenoid S2 Solenoid
1 ON ON
2 OFF ON
3 OFF OFF
4 ON OFF

To Test Voltage:
See PCM Pin # 51 and 52.

S3 and S4 Multiplex Control Solenoids:
These Solenoids are "Normally Open", On/Off Solenoids.
They are used in conjunction with the S5 Solenoid to help apply the Selected Gear.
The S3 Solenoid applies the C3 Clutch.
The S4 Solenoid applies the Front Band.
If one of these Solenoids does not operate, a Fault Code will log in the PCM.

To Test Voltage:
See PCM Pin # 35 and 55.

S5 Variable Pressure Solenoid:
This Solenoid is a "Variable Force" Solenoid that "Ramps" the Pressure during Gear Changes.
This is done by varying the Current Flow through the Solenoid.

Low Current, (0.2 Amps) = High Pressure
High Current, (1.275 Amps) = Low Pressure.

(Maximum Pressure = 450 kPa)

To Test Voltage:
See PCM Pin # 38.

S6 Line Pressure Solenoid:
This Solenoid is a "Normally Open", On/Off Solenoid.
It sets a High or Low Line Pressure according to Throttle demands.

Under Heavy Throttle, the Solenoid is switched OFF.
This results in High Line Pressure which compensates for Increased Engine Torque.
Under Light Throttle, the Solenoid is switched ON reducing Line Pressure.



If the Throttle Position Sensor fails, the Solenoid will switch OFF, resulting in High Line Pressure.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hope this helps you guys work out why the transmission goes in "Limp Home" :shock:

"S5 Variable Pressure Solenoid:
This Solenoid is a "Variable Force" Solenoid that "Ramps" the Pressure during Gear Changes.
This is done by varying the Current Flow through the Solenoid.

Low Current, (0.2 Amps) = High Pressure
High Current, (1.275 Amps) = Low Pressure. "

fit resistor in line to match the output of 0.2Amp (or mesurre volts and mach with appropriate resistor). Cut the secondary (low pressure) line off.

Please note that this will result in very rough gear changes. Alternativley you can match a shift kit. No mods to computer nescessery.
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Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 6:35 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Depending on the quality of the hi-stall as well, For example in my XR it has a 3000 hi-stall, however I can still drive it around and go up hills @ 1800-2000 rpm, because the converter is fairly tight, but at the same time, I can take off from a set of lights @ around 1/2 throttle, and it will flash up to around 3500rpm and light up the rears.

Some of the poorly designed hi-stalls will not act like this and be a real slug below the stall speed.
This is the main difference between the two types of dominator converters, one is desgined for outright strip work, and the other is designed for street work (more drivability)
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Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:54 am 
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so which one have you got? how much? and most importantly where did you get it from in perth?

e6

 

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looking for a decent 351 and wondering how im gonna get it set up in my AU????

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Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:18 am 
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Give Simon a call at Allfast Torque Converters, he will not s**t you, and he is very helpful over the phone. He will custom make a converter to suit your application (it all comes down to diff ratio, engine work etc etc.)
Dont be scared to pay a little bit extra for a good converter, as opposed to not being happy with it and having to change it again later on.
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Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:19 pm 
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thanks man il give him a call.

e6

 

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looking for a decent 351 and wondering how im gonna get it set up in my AU????

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Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:03 pm 
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Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

Any luck with getting a torque converter?

has anyone got a high stall torque in an e-series falcon?

what did the guy from Allfast Torque Converters say?

 

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