Gday i've been looking for high stall torque converters for a 6cylinder Ford EL 4 speed automatic. I only find v8 ones on ebay and they are expensive bastards. How much am i looking at for a stally? Would it be wise not to get a 2,000rpm stally since the EL's have the bbm which kicks in 2,000rpm aswell, or would it be sweet with a 2 grand stally & the bbm?


Plan---> Shift kit & High stall torque converter.

ummm, the bbm dont switch untill 3800rpm, and the std stall is 1900-2100rpm anyway..

if you want the rpm to flash to 2000rpm you will need something like 2500-3000rpm stall.

oh its 3800rpm..was told it was 2,000 never taken notice but cheers.

just looking at cams aswell at the moment, Car has 294,000 on the clock. do you reckon a cam with quick torque would be capable of going into the engine without making it strain? Motor sounds healthy no ticking or lumpiness just curious.

1604 wade cam im looking at or..1673 wade cam. just downloaded a doc list from the forums.
Im after something with torque increase but capable of using the standard ecu. really cannot be bothered with changing ecu's..

with an auto with std stall a wade 1636 would work well or a manual or a higher stall the 1673 or even the 977b, but the larger the cam the more down low torque you will loose..

Yeah ive got my extractors sitting in my room capable of being put on but im p plates. im trying to figure ways to get more power without a cop popping the hood and going, hey! illegal


Cheers anyway. Shift Kit, High Stall, Possible Cam, 3.45 Lsd is the plans.

heres one I just found
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-EF-AU-Hi-Stall-Torque-Converter-RED-DIAMOND-/350251448292?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item518c9cf7e4

Yeh it says ''depending on your camshaft'' im totally new to this stuff. do u need a cam to have a high stally? i think ill go with a std stally alot cheaper lol.

Send PM to EVL098, hes had alot of experience with high stalls for these fords

member15318.html

I had a TCI 2800 hi stall - I upgraded though

Here is some pics you may find interesting

Side by Side

Eliminator Custom Made - TCI Modified Std EF EL Convertor

Eliminator 3500 9.5" Hi Stall Convertor VS TCI 2800 11" Hi Stall

Pics:-




If you want a hight stall talk to Torque Convertor Industries in Seven Hills Nsw - they have an add on eBay as well - pretty sure I paid $395.00 for the TCI 2800 Hi Stall - and yes it does stall to 2800

The Eliminator 3500 Hi Stall is $1,298.00 a bit out of your price range

It says depending on camshaft because of differences in motor outputs change the stall speed. If you have a cam that comes on after the rated stall chances are you wont hit the stall rpm.
Change the engines power, the stall speed will change.

yeh i just need one smartass highway cop who knows cars and will pick out the cam from the sound or something stupid lol.

If you keep your stock exhaust, add 4.11s + stallie, or 3.45s + manual, cam and J3 chip the car will still look stock, and go a heck of a lot better. If they mention a different exhaust note (not likely) just be like "I dunno I thought they all sound like that, maybe it has a leak then?"

You can get your stock convertor's stall speed adjusted for quite cheap. I managed to break the nose off my the convertor in my EF XR6 (don't ask), so sent it out to be fixed. They re-stalled it at the same time (from 2000rpm to 2900rpm) for about NZ$300 all up - that is with the convertor already out of the car. I imagine you could get a restall done for around $200 or a bit more in Oz. Excellent value - it will definitely make the car jump off the line.

For a cam that's going to pass inspection, why not go with a second hand XR6 cam. You won't hear it in the exhaust note, it works with the stock computer, you will have no issues with extra shims, and it should be cheap ($100 or less). I reground my XR6 cam one step hotter (for NZ$120), and you would struggle to notice it in the idle or exhaust and it works with the stock XR6 ECU.

Depending on which cam you go with, the 2900 rpm I ended up with may be just a bit too much on the street. Under mild acceleration, the revs only drop about 200rpm on each upchange (at about 2500rpm) - like a drag car. But it still gives plenty of "creep" at idle. For my cam, I figure the ideal would be about 2700-2800rpm, probably 2400-2500rpm for a stock cam, with the XR6 cam somewhere in between.

An EL GT snorkel and J3 chip are cheap and effective upgrades that won't be picked up on inspection. Also a custom airbox exit (bell-mouthed 3" PVC pipe) is cheap and should help a bit.

nice i did consider the xr6 cams, dont they need the xr6 auto computer to run it tho? ive just got a standard 4.0 fairmont.. might check shops out for xr6 cams for purchase and install buggered if i know how to do that.

You don't need an XR6 ECU for the the XR6 cam any more than you do for a mild regrind. The XR6 ECU is probably not a bad idea though, as it was fettled by Tickford to suit a more agressive cam and bigger exhaust. I'm pretty sure the shift points are higher too.

Changing the cam isn't too hard on the single cam sixes. Take a look at a Haines or Gregorys manual for the detail. But the short version (from memory) is: remove the rocker cover, put rags in all the oil drain holes in the head, lock the timing chain tensioner off, cable tie the chain to the cam gear on both sides, undo the cam bolt, undo all the rocker gear bolts progressively, and there's your cam in all its glory. Cover all cam bearing and lobe surfaces generously with new oil before bolting everything back together. If you go with a regrind, don't forget an extra set of shims. As long as you keep the chain tight and don't let it slip a tooth on either the cam or crank sprockets, you should be sweet. Oh, and don't forget to take the rags out before putting the rocker cover back on