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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
phongus wrote: pugz18595 wrote: Nah just petrol...bloody prick of a thing to get the bolts off aye...I kind of given up and rather pay someone to change the gasket..was looking forward in doing it too. So no sealant needed then huh? No sealant, just make sure the gasket is on the right way around, I've done that mistake lol. Don't give up yet, perseverance will pay off. i'll second the no sealent. And make sure you have an MPI gasket, I've had to fix one that some one fitted a CFI gasket too. (no cutouts for the injectors) the injectors spray fuel on to the back of the gasket and it dont run so good. |
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| pugz18595 |
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Thanks heaps for the advise guys. I have decided to do the job myself and I am stuck on the last 2x bottom bolts on the manifold....what a b-tch alright. Any ideas other than a flexi extension bar to get at it. They don't have any at the local auto store where I live. I did see an extra long 10mm ring spanner made by powerbuilt..$42.00NZ what a rip....
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| milo 302 |
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MadMatt wrote: milo 302 wrote: phongus wrote: milo 302 wrote: yep what gassa said, you can get to the bolts way easier if you remove the top half first,then you can use the ratchet spanner youre getting  But then you need to replace 2 gaskets...gasket between top and bottom manifold (if original) will most likely be stuffed. And when you have a sore back you will be spewin you were a tight a*** and didnt just get both gaskets If the bolts were loose then id say its stuffed anyhow dude, may as well replace it now.Wont have to do it again What the? So you would rather spend more time bent over under the bonnet doing more work than you need to? I have a torn disc in my lower back and can change 1 of these gaskets on a ef or el in under an hour. You don't use sealent on this gasket, the fuel from the injectors will melt it. i will spell it out, it is much easier to get to the back bolts with the top half off. So you spend less time fiddling and bending over getting lower back injuries makes sense to me  Takes me around 5 minutes to get the top half off and saves half an hour + of mucking round, work that out. |
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| pugz18595 |
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So true milo 302, when you say remove top half first, what exactly are you talking about? I'm not a mechanic, your help is greatly appreciated if you could walk me through it....Thanks
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| MadMatt |
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How many have you changed Milo? did they take you less than an hour to change?
_________________ Member Number 8804 |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Shouldn't need to split the manifold, I've done heaps of them, and never used anything other then basic spanners and sockets.
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| pugz18595 |
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so how did you get the bottom last two bolts Tickford? What did you use?
Cheers |
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| MadMatt |
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pugz18595 wrote: so how did you get the bottom last two bolts Tickford? What did you use? Cheers I do those first and with a ratchet spanner.
_________________ Member Number 8804 |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
pugz18595 wrote: so how did you get the bottom last two bolts Tickford? What did you use? Cheers do them first, and just use a normal 10mm spanner from the top untill they are finger loose. those two bolts take up half the time of the job and the first one took AGES to do. If you can i spose you use a stubby spanner from the bottom. You should be able to buy a JBS ratchet spanner for only a few $$ that would speed things up |
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| TROYMAN |
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you dont need to remove the top half of the manifold, thats just silly!!
the rear lower bolts can be difficult, i use ratchet ring spaner and normal ring spanner then use the tips of my fingers to remove the last few turns... if you have long skinny arms (which i dont) you can reach them by putting your arm underneath the manifold from the front.. |
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| SV-Valiant |
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TROYMAN wrote: you dont need to remove the top half of the manifold, thats just silly!! the rear lower bolts can be difficult, i use ratchet ring spaner and normal ring spanner then use the tips of my fingers to remove the last few turns... if you have long skinny arms (which i dont) you can reach them by putting your arm underneath the manifold from the front.. I agree with Troyman as above This thread seems to be getting more complicated than it needs to be the bolts to undo and to do up are a pain in the a*** and yes frustrating but jeez just use a small socket universal joint and some long extentions and 10 mil spanner and get it done. |
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| twase |
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Yes straight forward on an SOHC motor, done in a few hours but I just spet 12 hours getting my DOHC off, drilling in LPG injector nozzles and reinstalling it. Right pain with the ZF oil cooler and lines in the mix as well..
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| pugz18595 |
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Yeah ha I did it, the bolts were pr-cks alright but I did it..(jumping for joy)....I accidently undone the thermostat bolts and pulled that out and when I put it all back together it leaked coolant from there..Can you buy a gasket or something sealant? for this....Thanks to phongus for telling me not to give up..I was determined to get those bolts off. I brought a 1/4" ratchet spanner and was great!!!!!
Here's a photo of the thermostat thingy that I need to seal somehow... Attachment: 3.jpeg [ 48.81 KiB | Viewed 315 times ] Attachment: 4.jpeg [ 48.25 KiB | Viewed 290 times ] |
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| phongus |
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pugz18595 wrote: Yeah ha I did it, the bolts were pr-cks alright but I did it..(jumping for joy)....I accidently undone the thermostat bolts and pulled that out and when I put it all back together it leaked coolant from there..Can you buy a gasket or something sealant? for this....Thanks to phongus for telling me not to give up..I was determined to get those bolts off. I brought a 1/4" ratchet spanner and was great!!!!! Here's a photo of the thermostat thingy that I need to seal somehow... Attachment: 3.jpeg Attachment: 4.jpeg No problem mate. It's a good feeling once you have achieved something Also you can get a new thermostat housing-to-head gasket. Shouldn't cost too much. I think no more then $10. While you're at it, if money allows, flush the cooling system out with water, replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket. If you want, change hoses as well if they look a bit out of date. Once you connect everything back up, you can run just water through the cooling system and drive around the block, check for leaks and then replace water with coolant/water mixture if all is good.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| pugz18595 |
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Yip I feel great alright considering I am in no way a mechanic but like to dab in things like this. I made my own OBDI diagnostic reader ages ago by just soldering here and there.
Hey is there any sealant needing to go on this gasket? If so what type? |
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