Well last weekend i got some mates around and pulled the motor out of my parents old EF series 2 Station wagon. I want to build it up to put in my EF Sedan.

I have striped most of it down, only things left are the crank, pistons and con rods. I've got a very good understanding of how engines work etc. and i am a heavy diesel mechanic (Apprentice). I want to know the process others go through to build a no nonsense tough motor that puts out a bit of power. Money is a bit tight because of the previously mentioned job but i am prepared to pay a bit for a good motor.

The main and big end bearings are craped and i think the crank might need grinding (can you do this). The motor had overheated by the look of it (the bores have a slight discolouration), but i think it may be fixable. If this is the case i will get the block honed (boss at work said something about installing sleeves can this be done and is it going to make a difference). The bearing surface in the head looks like someone has been sanding with 40 grit and i think it needs to be machined (can this be done). I will be putting in a wade cam so i wont be worrying about the old cam. I would like to know what can be done with the head when it comes to valve seats and valves. Can i replace the seats and the valves with new ones and is it just a replacement job or is there grinding etc, involved.

I also want to know everything i have to look for when building the motor .

I was thinking about using a ACL race rebuild kit for the parts and change anything that may be a weakness, i will also be installing a high stall torque converter, exhaust, better flowing intake etc.

So can anyone help ?
Thanks
TriggerHappy.

the easiest way for you will be to buy the ACL kit, order it with 20thou under sized bearing for mains and b/ends and 40thou pistons. get a new harmonic balancer and new b/end bolts.
take the whole bottom end from balancer to flexplate to good machine shop and have the lot of it machined and balanced.
then assemble it to stock specs. fit a new oil pump ,double check the relief spring tension, this can be done on a valve spring checking tool, specs are in the ford workshop manual. ( i have the EF specs here somewhere)

there is alot of small detail work that can be done for the cost of some basic tools, i suggest you buy a few books like Alex walordy's 'Chevy High Performance Engine Assembly Guide', i know it's not a ford book but alot of stuff in there transfers over to just about any engine. 'The step by step guide to engine blueprinting' is probably something you should read befor you start buying parts. You'll find it at http://www.pitstop.net.au/ in the technical books&dvds section.
also have a look for one called 'how to build and power tune cylinder heads'

It might cost you $130 in books and take you a week or two to read them all twice, but it will be money well spent


Edit: this one too http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/technica ... plu/17913/

I think the I6 crank is fairly robust, however if your after power CMS are building a 4.6L i6 with a crank rated to 600hp iirc.

sounds like the bores might be easiest done with new sleaves. i suppose then you can take it to a bigger piston. Hyena did a 4.2 with massive cam, springs, valves, and aftermarket management and pulled about ~170rwkw NA i believe with an EF block.

good luck with it, and lots of PICS!

I pretty much did the same thing, but i stripped the head and got it tested shaved flat, new valves and seat put in and ported and polished. It was the best engine I have ever owned.