|
| glenneaux |
|
||
|
Pretty self explanatory..
What's the procedure for removing the motor without the auto ? as I've looked under the car and don't really see very good access to some of the bolts.. I've flipped though the gregorys manual and they only refer to removing the whole lot as an assembly... I'm doing an engine swap so dont really want to have to take out the gearbox at the same time.. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Froudey |
|
||
|
i would assume drain the auto then undo the bolts around the bell housing and then slowly pull it out and whatcy that the thing um .......... ??torque converter? does fall out (couldn't remember the name)
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Walker |
|
|||
|
Froudey wrote: i would assume drain the auto then undo the bolts around the bell housing and then slowly pull it out and whatcy that the thing um .......... ??torque converter? does fall out (couldn't remember the name)
Seriously man, if you have no idea then why give advice? This can be done easily, i always use this method unless the box has to come out. Underneath on the front of the box there is a cover plate, unbolt the 2 support plates between the block and gearbox and remove the plate, once you do you'll see the flex plate... Undo all the bolts on the convertor (4 from memory) and push it back in towards the box. Unbolt your starter and all bell housing bolts and you're ready to come out. As you slide the engine forward for removal just make sure the convertor isn't attached to the crank... Push it as far back towards the box that it will go, otherwise if it pops out you'll have trans fluid pissing out and it makes a big mess. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| glenneaux |
|
||
|
Walker wrote: Underneath on the front of the box there is a cover plate, unbolt the 2 support plates between the block and gearbox and remove the plate, once you do you'll see the flex plate... Undo all the bolts on the convertor (4 from memory) and push it back in towards the box.
Unbolt your starter and all bell housing bolts and you're ready to come out. As you slide the engine forward for removal just make sure the convertor isn't attached to the crank... Push it as far back towards the box that it will go, otherwise if it pops out you'll have trans fluid pissing out and it makes a big mess. Cool man.. From what I've seen there isnt much access to all of the bellhouse->engine bolts.. I've spoken to another person who reckons the way to go is to drop the gearbox and then take the motor out... Is the access to the bolts a PITA? hmm so many methods.. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Walker |
|
|||
|
Is it a high series with the insulation around the firewall? If so then what i did was unbolted the rear cross member and drop the box down and removed all bell housing bolts except the bottom 2, then bolted the cross member back up and removed the last 2 bolts.
Use some long extensions to get to the top bolts. Make sure you have a jack under the gear box when you pull the motor out, you'll also need to raise the jack as you lift the engine out. After the motor is out just use an axle stand, block of wood or whatever and put it between the front cross member and the top of the bell housing to support the box. If you don't plan on moving the car then you can leave the jack under it. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| glenneaux |
|
||
|
Thanks walker,
hmm interesting.. unfortunately we have to move the car out of the shed once the motor is out because we'll be using a block and tackle to lift it so the motor can only go up and down... Sounds like we're gonna have fun and games ! |
||
| Top | |
||
| Walker |
|
|||
|
Borrow a crane if you can, it makes life so much easier!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| stockstandard |
|
|||
|
Ive done it with a block and tackle.
When the engine is lifted up, just cut a bit of wood so it will *just* fit between the chassis rails. Slide it in, push it up against the bellhousing, push a few of the bolts through so they catch on the top of the wood and lower the jack holding the gearbox up. You can then push the car around all you like.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| old_mate |
|
|||
|
top bellhousing bolts suck. I needed a wobble extension, a long normal extension, a uni joint, rattle gun, 2 blokes and just over an hour under a hoist with much abuse to get them out. Starter sucks a bit too.
Have fun. oh and yes, i dropped the cross member to get better access.
_________________ too many rabbits in china |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| stockstandard |
|
|||
|
On my car (gli) I can get the top bellhousing bolts off in a couple of minutes - socket->uni joint-> two 12" extensions and a 1/2" rachet. Ive also pulled the engine out in stages - remove the top end and use a ring spanner from in the engine bay
I did an EA spac the other day with sound deadening and that took a while longer. If it was my car id be cutting a few inches off the material so I could get to the bolts easier.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| old_mate |
|
|||
|
my car once had either a real welsh plug or head gasket leak at the back. My bolts were correded in, hence the pain
_________________ too many rabbits in china |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 50 guests |
