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how to take off a dethreaded head bolt 

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 9:19 pm 
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shnoza wrote:
Ive filed it down to a size 13mm.
I used a milti hex socket at the beginning. Thats how it got de - threaded/round.
From now on, ill be buying the single hex sockets. Stupid me! But i learnt my lession.
Tomorrow im going to buy a size 13mm socket for the impact driver. Hopefully it wont break.


Ive also learnt something....
Ford build tough,




But not from a file and elbow grease. :lol:

Worse case is that ill try to cut the bolt off. :cry:

You'll get it easy with an impact socket.
Add breaker bar, plus possible a pole on the end of breaker for extra leverage if you are weak like me :P

Lesson learnt though, and for anyone else that reads this, DO NOT USE MULTI-HEX SOCKETS WITH HEADBOLTS, that cannot be stressed enough.
For a few extra bucks, you can potentially save yourself alot of time and heartache and just grab a single hex impact socket.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:22 pm 
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Welding the socket to its works great, its a sure thing.
thats if you got a welder

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:17 am 
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I butchered two headbolts with a single hex socket (yes, achieved the impossible :cry: ).
I ended up carefully grinding the heads off with an angle grinder with cutting disc (using the disc at right angles to the block face - plenty of wet rags to surround the area to reduce metal shavings and keep it cool.
Be careful to keep grinding the head surface under the bolt heads to an absolute minimum. Just take your time.
Once you've ground down the heads, you'll find the bolts easy enough to get out with a centre pop and hammer.

Sounds bodgy, but it worked really well.

Be careful with welding sockets to headbolts, etc, as the heat may affect the head alloy hardness around that area. Ask a head/engine reconditioning place about this just to confirm.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 7:51 am 
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Steady ED wrote:
shnoza wrote:
Ive filed it down to a size 13mm.
I used a milti hex socket at the beginning. Thats how it got de - threaded/round.
From now on, ill be buying the single hex sockets. Stupid me! But i learnt my lession.
Tomorrow im going to buy a size 13mm socket for the impact driver. Hopefully it wont break.


Ive also learnt something....
Ford build tough,




But not from a file and elbow grease. :lol:

Worse case is that ill try to cut the bolt off. :cry:

You'll get it easy with an impact socket.
Add breaker bar, plus possible a pole on the end of breaker for extra leverage if you are weak like me :P

Lesson learnt though, and for anyone else that reads this, DO NOT USE MULTI-HEX SOCKETS WITH HEADBOLTS, that cannot be stressed enough.
For a few extra bucks, you can potentially save yourself alot of time and heartache and just grab a single hex impact socket.


I managed to get all bolts using a multi hex socket...but I used a T-bar with a 1m steel pole (used to rotate engine on engine stand) and just added to the end of the T-bar handle...such easy work that was :D

but if your multi-hex is eating the head away...I suggest single hex would be the best.

and snap? how did you manage to do that :?

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:36 am 
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phongus wrote:
but if your multi-hex is eating the head away...I suggest single hex would be the best.
It's been said enough times - single impact hex only.

phongus wrote:
and snap? how did you manage to do that :?
Make sure your socket is seated properly, and square (not sitting at an angle). Easy to overlook, and too late when you've applied force.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:57 am 
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Been through this, as i found out in the end, nothing would have undone it.
I done all the above and cracked 2 sockets on it, i ended up removing the springs from around the bolt and carefully used an angle grinder and ground the bolt down to the edge of the head, i then lifted the head off and spent f**k hours rooting around with stilsens and heating it with the oxy.
Mind you this was back in the early 90's on an EA, have got a lot more tools out now, but they still wouldn't have helped me.
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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 1:49 pm 
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would be easier to put all the other bolts back in and tighten them up hard, then remove the problem ones.
Its not like your going to damage the gasket or head any more.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:23 pm 
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Krytox wrote:
would be easier to put all the other bolts back in and tighten them up hard, then remove the problem ones.
Its not like your going to damage the gasket or head any more.

And that would be useless if he has the same problem i had, and yes i tried that too.
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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:36 pm 
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Got this guy down the road who might be passing by tonight. He is a mechanic i think. Hopefully he will have some tools.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:20 pm 
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THE BOLT IS OFF!! :D

I'm a happy man.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:57 am 
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Why cant tool manufacturers make sockets n spanners like 'Metrinch' ??

Rounded bolt heads would be a thing of the past.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:01 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
phongus wrote:
but if your multi-hex is eating the head away...I suggest single hex would be the best.
It's been said enough times - single impact hex only.

phongus wrote:
and snap? how did you manage to do that :?
Make sure your socket is seated properly, and square (not sitting at an angle). Easy to overlook, and too late when you've applied force.



yes it has :lol:

yeah true...I always kept the socket square to the bolt...I held it straight while my dad un-did the bolt...

If I was on my own I may have also eaten away the bolt heads...

phong =P~

EDIT: good on you shnoza...now you can continue on :D

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:08 pm 
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To all my glory of last night. The f**k bolt is still stuck. i cannot get head off because of that bolt. i was told by brother and dad to drill a hole in the bolt and revise drill it out. Now the is a broken drill piece in the bolt.
Also a plastic piece broken for the timing chain tension.
Its going bad to worse.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:13 pm 
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shnoza wrote:
To all my glory of last night. The f**k bolt is still stuck. i cannot get head off because of that bolt. i was told by brother and dad to drill a hole in the bolt and revise drill it out. Now the is a broken drill piece in the bolt.
Also a plastic piece broken for the timing chain tension.
Its going bad to worse.


i thought you got it out :shock:

well looks like you will have a tough time getting the drill bit out...and now while you are at it, you might as well drop the sump and change timing chain, guides and the lot.

good luck mate

phong =P~

 

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EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:22 pm 
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Yeah i thought the head would come straight out after the head of the bolt was taken off. But it didn't. The head doesn't want to budge.
The thing is that my car is an ex taxi. Not worth to much. So i wanted to only spend as little as possible. But im thinking im just going to keep this car for a long time.

Known problems with car
Diff
Suspension
Need new back tyres
Power steering leaking
Left back window does not wind up normally.

 

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"Chuck Norris is so fast, he can run around the world and punch himself in the back of the head."
"Chuck Norris ordered a Big Mac at Burger King, and got one."

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