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Hydralic lash adjuster question 

 

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 Post subject: Hydralic lash adjuster question
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:03 pm 
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i just took my hla's out and they are compressed, when you pull them apart they wont compress again because the air pressure in them pushes them apart. Is this how you are supposed to put them back in or what? Any info on this subject would be extremely helpfull. Thanks

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:34 pm 
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Gday Mr Ed, yeah had the same problem when I did mine recently. Ended up cleaning them with petrol and putting them together dry, still wasn't easy but at least they went together. Just made sure that every thing went back together with a good coating of oil, and wound the engine over with the spark plugs out to get oil up to the HLA's.

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 10:01 pm 
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if you hold them together long enough the air will bleed out.

then get some oil in a jar and put them in the oil, you'll see air bubbles start to come out. leave them there untill the bubbles stop. give the jar a bit of tap on the bench to get the last bit of air out. once the buubles completely stop put them in..


the biggest mistake you can make with them is to put them in dry..


once in the car start the car and just let it idle, let it sit there for a good 30mins befor you drive the car.
if when you do drive it you hear any HLA noise stop and let it idle until the noise stops..

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 10:36 pm 
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priming then with grease works well like priming your oil pump with grease after a rebuild. faster oil pick up and restores oil pressure straight away.

To many would be engine builders found out the hard way by not priming.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:35 pm 
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i actually prefer using petroleum jelly in oil pumps as it provides fast priming ability yet breaks down quicker as it's melting point is a lot lower. Just addin my bit of usless info

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 5:19 pm 
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oh s**t....i read the first post and did that and didn't come back and check for any more posts! so i put them in dry, should i pull it all apart again and put them in a jar of oil like the second post says or will oil find its way in eventually?

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:21 pm 
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Mr Ed wrote:
oh s**t....i read the first post and did that and didn't come back and check for any more posts! so i put them in dry, should i pull it all apart again and put them in a jar of oil like the second post says or will oil find its way in eventually?
just use a syringes from a inkjet refill kit. alot faster plus it'll push all the air out.

 

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 Post subject: ?
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 7:58 pm 
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When I have rebuilt an engine I have always used an electric drill on the oil pump drive to get pressure befor the engine even turns over. Then it is turned over on the starter until oil pressure shows on gauge and then and only then is the ignition connected. That way u know everything is lubricated and everything is in the right place with no untoward noises. Seen many home built engines finished and fitted and fired up only to destroy themselves or do severe amage when fired up. Even the best mechanics can overlook something, but once she fires its too late.

 

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 Post subject: Re: ?
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 8:06 pm 
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falconea wrote:
When I have rebuilt an engine I have always used an electric drill on the oil pump drive to get pressure befor the engine even turns over. Then it is turned over on the starter until oil pressure shows on gauge and then and only then is the ignition connected. That way u know everything is lubricated and everything is in the right place with no untoward noises. Seen many home built engines finished and fitted and fired up only to destroy themselves or do severe amage when fired up. Even the best mechanics can overlook something, but once she fires its too late.


on that i dont even put the spark plugs in until it shows pressure on a trusted test guage. Although some engines will not get pressure off the key and have no way of being primed with a drill.

an other way i like to do it is use a remote filter take off plate plumbed into a drum of oil with an airline fitting. you use air pressure to pump oil through the engine. helps alot on engine like the commodore V6 that will not get pressure off the key. RB30s are the same.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 11:51 pm 
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I'v used Grease to hold the poofters in as the plastic looking clip that holds them in there has broken I use assembly lube and moly grease on metal to metal parts...

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 7:48 pm 
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well everything seems to be going well :D i've done a couple of hours driving in it with no mechanical problems there is one other problem though, the throttle cable seems to be melting above the tappet cover :( is this normal?

 

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 Post subject: ???
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 7:59 pm 
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Where's a moderator when you need one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:00 pm 
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Please keep on topic in the tech forums guys!

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:38 pm 
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Neo_nick wrote:
Please keep on topic in the tech forums guys!
Sorry mate.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:51 am 
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Mr Ed wrote:
well everything seems to be going well :D i've done a couple of hours driving in it with no mechanical problems there is one other problem though, the throttle cable seems to be melting above the tappet cover :( is this normal?
No its not normal. you should have a securing clamp which bolts on the rocker cover. it'll stop the throttle cable from moving about.

 

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