alritey guys i need your help, the plan is to buy another eb xr6 engine rebuild it for a "reliable" 400+ rwkw's, now im gona just drive me eb xr around until the engine is fully rebuilt, ready to go in, and all the turbo equipment is acquired (which is almost complete)

HEAD:

- high performance crane springs
- port and polish
- head skim
- high performace valves? not sure which ones? any ideas
- custom reground turbo cam, again any idea's?
- JMM vernier gear
any other idea's or needs for the head?

BOTTOM END:

- professionally rebuilt (but by who?)
- was thinking about dished pistons?
- strengthened rods, again which ones?
- re- honed etc
- basically as bullet proof as possible

now im thinking a good head gasket will be the key to making this reliable
which one do you recommend, acl? or even an AU copper gasket

if anyone could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated
expense is not an issue


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and the old t5 will have to go, won't last long, was thinking about TKO t5 maybe?

au head gasket is about the best you can get atm,
as for the bottom end jim mock does custom rebuilds but be prepared to pay the $$$

edit: dont worry about jim mock, just asw your in wa

T56 conversion, there's a fair few of them around with big power behind them.

yer well the T56 looks like the way to go, even if its gona cost big$$, i am considering getting jim mock to do all the work, get the engine transported over to eastern states, i just hope my pockets are deep enough, if not, i'll make them deep enough

i was considering the tko t5 mainly because of the relatively easy swap over of boxes, the t56 however requires a fair bit fitment, does it not? custom garbox mounts, bellhousing etc

All of the can be provided by Mal Wood for either box.

Speak with Pyroay, he had a reliable 450rwkw.

bottom end

Rods and pistons are easy. speak to atomic and get a set 'FAT RODS" and forged piston for the barra turbo engine (even the skinny rods will be fine). they are a drop in fit to the early single cam engine once the bore size has been sorted. the also have good dish in the piston to get the comp down. The only extra work needed is to cut the valve clearence notches to suit the 2 valve head.

Get an AU one piece main girdle and some good main bolts/studs.
a crank scraper/ windage tray is also a good idea.

the biggest thing to keeping the bottom end together is keeping oil temps right. Setup an oil cooler running a bypass and an oilstat. that way you only get oil flow through the cooler once the oilstat opens. (lets the oil get to the corect temp faster)

if you realy want to get serious you could grout fill the lower part of the block.


The head.

air flow is the key to power. the higher the efficiency of the head, the more power you will make for a given boost pressure.
good head flow and less boost is a better way then poor head flow and more boost.
less boost will create less temprature in the intake charge.

the key to holding head gaskets in, is having a perfectly flat block deck and a perfectly flat head face. you also should have the head hardness tested.
check out the thread in the turbo section for the discusion about head studs, there is some good info in that one.

custon cam is a must, call around to some places like Wade cams, Crow cams, Surecam, Tigthe cams.
cams gears are cheap and most cam supliers will have them in stock and will ship one with the cam if you ask them.

as for valve springs, don't second guess the guy who grinds the cam, use what he tells you to use

but at 8k+ for a malwood kit, seem's like another way would be more appropriate, and thanks for your help tickford_6, helped alot...