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i6 wiring question 

 

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 Post subject: i6 wiring question
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:12 pm 
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Hey guys, ive had my eb for a while now, it was originally a ser1 eb 3.9 cfi 4spd auto, now its a 4l mpefi 5spd, anyway im having some top end issues, it feels like its running out of breath up in the top end, ive noticed my manifold has two tps sensors, one wich is orange/black/green, and the other is all blue wires with different coloured stripes. the blue one runs to a plug off the chassis loom near the tfi loom, and the normal coloured one runs into the mpefi wiring loom, could it be a problem with one of these sensors or should i loose the blue wired one and stick with the normal one, if anyone has some advice id be keen to hear it

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:17 pm 
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Im pretty sure one TPS is for the ECU (used with MAP for speed density calculations) and the other is for the transmission control module which would have been used with the old 4 speed auto you had orginally.

What ECU are you using now?? EB or something?

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:18 pm 
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im currently using a 3.9 auto ecu, seeing as my eb is non smartlock its almost impossible to find a non smartlock 4l eb ecu

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:21 pm 
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I'd personally go to your local wrecker, find a suitable car and take all the engine/dash/ecu looms and re-loom the car

Saves any issues such as this. Should be able to get a full loom set for $100-150.

But yes, martin is spot on. The early 4sp EA's had a seperate trans computer, which im assuming would've required its own TPS (same setup as the EB-EL V8's).

If the car is driving normally, and shifting normally, the TPS is fine. If youre running out of puff up top, check fuel pressure, air filter. Clean injectors, fuel filter, etc, etc.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:33 pm 
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the car drives/idles fine, just the top end, fuel pressure is spot on, brand new fuel pressure regulator, new leads/plugs/dizzycap/rotor button, new fuel filter

only thing i havnt really touched are the injectors, but they arent very noisy so i doubt they are very dirty. it feels like it leans out alot so i was thinking that maybe the tps controls how much fuel/or when the injectors fire, or is that a tfi thing?

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chris

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:39 pm 
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DrE wrote:
the car drives/idles fine, just the top end, fuel pressure is spot on, brand new fuel pressure regulator, new leads/plugs/dizzycap/rotor button, new fuel filter

only thing i havnt really touched are the injectors, but they arent very noisy so i doubt they are very dirty. it feels like it leans out alot so i was thinking that maybe the tps controls how much fuel/or when the injectors fire, or is that a tfi thing?

cheers

chris


TFI is ignition control so forget it when talking fuel. The TPS has a small part to play in fuel but usually this is more of a "low down" issue - fast moments of acceleration (as seen by TPS) cause EEC to richen up mixtures... but by the time you approach high RPM the foot has been down for some time and enrichment not really active. I dont think it would be a TPS issue....

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:51 pm 
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DrE wrote:
the car drives/idles fine, just the top end, fuel pressure is spot on, brand new fuel pressure regulator, new leads/plugs/dizzycap/rotor button, new fuel filter

only thing i havnt really touched are the injectors, but they arent very noisy so i doubt they are very dirty. it feels like it leans out alot so i was thinking that maybe the tps controls how much fuel/or when the injectors fire, or is that a tfi thing?

cheers

chris



How does the 4sp shift? Does it kick back properly?

I'm guessing yes, which means the TPS is working A-OK.

If in doubt, put a multimeter over pin 1 and 3 of the TPS (from memory) and you should get 1V at closed throttle, and 5V at WOT.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 6:04 pm 
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Waggin wrote:
DrE wrote:
the car drives/idles fine, just the top end, fuel pressure is spot on, brand new fuel pressure regulator, new leads/plugs/dizzycap/rotor button, new fuel filter

only thing i havnt really touched are the injectors, but they arent very noisy so i doubt they are very dirty. it feels like it leans out alot so i was thinking that maybe the tps controls how much fuel/or when the injectors fire, or is that a tfi thing?

cheers

chris



How does the 4sp shift? Does it kick back properly?

I'm guessing yes, which means the TPS is working A-OK.

If in doubt, put a multimeter over pin 1 and 3 of the TPS (from memory) and you should get 1V at closed throttle, and 5V at WOT.


Looks like its been converted to a man tran... which makes me suspicious about how the ECU is coping with no feedback info from BTR... but this usually results in problems down low and at idle.... ?!?!

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 6:41 pm 
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Oops, missed that bit.

In that case it should idle high (if gear selector sensor input hasnt been tricked into DRIVE), and thermos (if EF/EL) will run high. No *real* performance issues to worry about.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:05 pm 
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sorry forgot that part yea its a 5spd, its been converted and the inhibitor switch has been fooled, i did notice whiledigging around the dash that the auto computer is hanging by its loom, i think someone has screwed around with it (it was bought converted so im unsure of what has been done in the past), down low it hauls, alot quicker off the line than any other e series ive had but as soon as it hits about 3grand+ it revs but stops making power, ive checked timing and whatnot aswell everything seems fine, its not chewing fuel and its not leaking/blowing any smoke either. its kinda got me stumped

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:17 pm 
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DrE wrote:
sorry forgot that part yea its a 5spd, its been converted and the inhibitor switch has been fooled, i did notice whiledigging around the dash that the auto computer is hanging by its loom, i think someone has screwed around with it (it was bought converted so im unsure of what has been done in the past), down low it hauls, alot quicker off the line than any other e series ive had but as soon as it hits about 3grand+ it revs but stops making power, ive checked timing and whatnot aswell everything seems fine, its not chewing fuel and its not leaking/blowing any smoke either. its kinda got me stumped


Maybe a blocked cat?

I'd still suggest looking for some donor wiring.

Even an EBII Auto loom would be a good start, its VERY similar to the Manual looms with the exception of the loom which goes fromt he box to the engine bay.

The inhibitor switch is one thing, but there is also a gear selection input. Has the car ever run properly over 3000rpm since the conversion?

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:21 pm 
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its always been sluggish in the top end but more so now than ever

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:22 pm 
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DrE wrote:
its always been sluggish in the top end but more so now than ever


Unbolt just before the cat and take her for a spin.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:27 pm 
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actually i missed a part that is probably critical, it pulls fine top end when its cold, before the thermostat kicks in, then once its at operating temp its got no top end, also ive just fitted a set of extractors and a new cat today, havnt had a chance to take it for a spin just yet. While im thinking of it, would low back pressure have anything to do with it? when i purchased the car it has a 2.5 pressbent system, but it has no mufflers and only one resonator, could this have anything to do with it?

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:28 pm 
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The exhaust back pressure is a little more cruicial at the lower end of the rpm range, so no.

If its only occuring when the engine is at temperature, perhaps its something to do with your ECT sensor. Have you pulled codes from your ECU? This will tell you if any sensors are out of range, or if there have been any other fault conditions.

 

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