good point... no, zoom did not show the intake before and after temps.. but i do still believe through a slightly cooler intake.. (water spray) means slightly more timing can be run with a small increase in power if tuned correct... even more so the benifit on "forced cars".. thats good stuff opto.. thats what im looking for...

Did a quick google search and found this. Yeah, not really relevant for us but still interesting...



so water injection creates a slower more stable combustion, so you could run more timing without detonation.

hehe more timing without dettonation thus increasing power slightly.. (sorry for the word "slightly typed so much... it aint my fave word) thats all i need to know.. if it lowers intake temp, increases power n is reliable than i am a happy chappy!! + any other pics of cooling iduction? through engine bay heat reduction? shields? additional cold air pick ups? "stockstandard" thats good find with the google search... never done a search through google... i dont walk around scraping my knuckles either!

More timing yes, more power maybe/probably not

Any power gains from more timing have to offset the power loss of the humid intake charge. On boosted engines or massively worked NA ones, the benefits outweigh the cost, but on our engines, no deal.

Try NO2 - that cools down the intake charge nicely

yaeh... been keeping an eye on "sim" in the "forced forums" and his ef fairmont.. wonder why? was an idea too... weighing up options of the happy gas... would be ... for track only (obviously!)

Oh, and kind of back on topic...

Its worth while getting a temp probe to measure intake charges if your really interested. I have one of the metal intake pipes and even with the extractors shielded it gets very hot. I found though that the air doesnt get heated up much though - which i think is because the air travels so fast through the intake it doesnt have time to soak in the heat.

yeah,as u can see my intake.. its mandrel 3inch.. it does tend to get hot.. thats part of my concern.. the u-shaped part does get hot above the rocker cover... mayby some exhaust wrap around the u haped part? or HPC coating?? the straight section of the mandrel intake into the airbox does heat up just not quiet as much but it does weigh a tonne! must be steel.. is theyre a lighter way of replacing this pipe? sat aluminium pipe or some sort of plastic pipe that is heat resistant?? is there such a thing??

i would love an infa red heat gun.. have played with one at work... is cool! but would love to experiment with it on my car to find the best ways of reduction of heat in both the engine bay and induction temps...

Heh, I see you have the same problem as me with the intake/engine bay getting a little hot under the collar. Mine gets really hot for some reason, to the point where you can't keep your hand on the airbox lid for more than a second after a bit of a drive.

I've been meaning to get a heftier radiator to try and keep the temps down. I'm also running a cooler thermostat but it hasn't made much difference. Mine is funny though, it runs quite cool sometimes, others about the middle of the temp gauge and on hot days (or in traffic) it climbs right up.

There's a plastic cover bit that sits under the radiator an bolts to the back of the front bar and the front of the cross member (I think...)
Mark (It's Performance) was telling me they frequently get damaged or ripped off and can cause your engine bay to heat up (something to do with high and low pressue area and heat being sucked out of the engine bay) Mine was missing and I fitted another one but it didn't seem to make a huge difference to the temp gauge. I think it did lower the engine bay temp a little though... I haven't put it back on since fitting the bodykit yet but I must get around to it.

I was going to look at water/methanol spray as well to try and keep temps down. Apparently they are useful on high compression engines such as ours but it's another one of those rainy day projects

If you remove the plastic gaurd underneath the thermos, it will cool the engine bay down heaps.

Once removed you can see straight down through to the ground, allows alot off heat too escape.

Article was in a zoom magazine!

Really? I thought it was the other way around

I see alot of heat coming out through my EL GT bonnet scoop. It doesn't seem to make things any cooler but when stopped at the lights you can see the heat haze above the vents.

Yes it definately is the other way around. The plastic guard stops air from comming in under the front bar. With it removed, gets in through the gap and reduces the amount pushed through the radiator.

Could not have put it any better. Retarding the flame front in the cylinder as a means of being able to increase the ignition timing... a relatively fruitless excercise I would have thought.

Only reason i have mine on the blower is for safety - i.e. to reduce the instances of detonation. Its an absolute bugger to get setup right as well... too much water and the power is killed off as soon as water kicks in... not enough and it wont do much. But even with it setup right on mine, power is noticably lower... hence i like cold days when i can turn it off