Anyone know roughly how much the distributor can advance from where its set (10*) from the TFI or other?

would like to know as im trying to track down a timing issue

What model of vehicle are we referring too???Can you describe the ignition timing issue in detail ??

Depending on the model of vehicle between base timing setting to computer advance up to and around 30 to 35 degrees BTDC. BUT NEED TO KNOW WHAT vehicle we are talking about as this might bite me on the a**???!!!!!

If you hold the throttle to say 1500rpm what is the timing if you take the reading of the harmonic balancer ? and repeat in increments of 500rpm right up to say 4000rpm or just tke it right up to 4000rpm the first timing and read what it is on the harmonic balancer ?

By doing the incremental method you should be able to plot the ignition advance curve for your vehicle timing agains rpm?

Has the harmonic balancer outer ring spun on the rubber mounting point ?

Just throwing ideas up in the air !!!

Cheers

About another 4* on top of the 10* initial...so 14* initial...may need to run premium (95RON) then.

the width of the rotor arm physically...
you'd have to have f**k something up in a dissy install to have the the spark running off the edge of the rotor, if thats what you are thinking?

EL.

Still chasing a miss in the motor (not as bad once the timing was correctly checked)

" Misfire ? " ignition misfire , fuel misfire or mechanical misfire ????

Ignition misfire - you will quickly find on a engine analyser ( just take it to a workshop equiped with a engine analyser. ( DIY_urself Also do a cylinder balance test via disabling one injector harness connector at a time and note which cylinder is not contributing as much RPM when disconnected is one quick and easy way of doing urself!! Cost just your time!! ) and plus many other possible ignition misfire scenarios could be causing this problem.

Fuel misfire - You need a high pressure fuel gauge/flowmeter ( expensive to purchase for a one off use! again might have to pay a workshop for their asistance )-DIY_urself - you will have to check fuel pressures along the whole fuel system - also disable one injector at a time and try and find which cylinder is missing ?? safest way , cracked, loose intake manifold bolts or poorly sealing inlet manifold gaskets could be a issue, plus many other possible fuel misfire senarios could be causing this problem.

Mechaical misfire - do a compression test on every cylinder " dry test first and if any cylinders down on compressor follow it by a wet test ! comp gauge not expensive to purchase and carry out the test. Also plus many other possible mechaical scenarios could be causing this problem

Just some cyber_diagnoses if it assists in any way shape or form.

Good luck with the process of elimination.

cheers