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Ignition Timing 

 

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 Post subject: Ignition Timing
Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:01 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Hi

I am having a problem with the timing on my xh ute (98). When I purchased the ute it was set at 21 deg advanced, ran well but gave poor fuel economy. When I set it back to standard it is life less below 3000 rpm. To the point that my 3 cylinder charade puts it to shame. I have replaced the sparkplugs, air filter, cap and rotor button but with no luck. What am I doing wrong??

(all timing adjustments where set in diag mod)
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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:10 am 
Stock as a Rock
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u need to check that timing mark is indeed correct, - pulley may have slipped.
to do this just remove no. 1 plug, and slowly turn motor while probing cyl, (with small screwdriver or such) until u feel the piston is exactly TDC (u may have to move back and forth a couple of times, then check where tdc mark on pulley is. Should be exactly lined up with indicator.

If there is a discrepency u can either replace pulley or just adjust timing while making appropriate allowance.(which is what previous tuner probably did)

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:26 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Garth is spot on, first you have to know how accurate you timing marks are. It doesn't seem like you've done anything wrong, it may be a component that is not pulling its weight.
Once you've determined the accuracy of your timing marks you'll have a known positive to go on from.
Keep posting, I'm sure there'll be a few suggestions coming. Which w/shop manual do you have?
Cheers,
Paul

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 12:29 am 
Parts Gopher
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Did you remember to short out the self-diagnostics pin in the plug to the right of the steeing column?

The ECU retards the timing itself, so it will always look advanced. The original timing was probably correct and the bad fuel consumption could be the o2 sensor.

If I were you, I'd do timing by ear, it's not too hard, but the lack of power is exactly what happens when you retard the timing too much (I have done it intentionally as mine was backfiring on LPG, but that's another story).

Pete

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 3:34 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Pete,
Masier said in the first post "all timing adjustments where set in diag mod[e]", so we assumed that base timing was indeed being used.
Timing it by ear is a good tip and well worth a try, very useful to recheck where the timing mark ends up.
Cheers,
Paul

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:25 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Ah, right, missed that bit.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:02 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Thanks all for the post. Today was the first time I had time to play with it. I am avg around town about 19 l per 100 this is shifting around 2500 rpm in a 5 speed manual.

The timing mark is spot on. ( Checked per the wire method on cylinder No. 1). I replaced the fuel filter just on the off chance but no luck. Have a chance to use the error code hand held thing for pulling the errors on Monday.

The manual that I am using is the Ford workshop manual for the XG.

The one question that I did have to ask is this. The is a leak between the manifold and the exhaust. Note not between the head and the manifold. I would like to know where this could be the problem. If so what gasket do I get to put in there??


Once again thanks for your input.
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Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 1:17 am 
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Masier,
That's called the 'exhaust flange gasket', they're cheap and when leaking could contribute to your problem.
The read outs on Monday should help and I'd be checking that the catalytic converter isn't blocked and the oxy sensor [in the lower exhaust manifold] is clean.
A blocked cat. converter or muffler will kill all your power and ruin fuel economy, so make sure your exhaust is unobstructed and free flowing.
A stuffed oxy sensor will do the same and if the cat is blocked it is probably fouled too.
It's best to use the manual for the model you have when tuning a car, there may be be some small differences etc.
Paul

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:38 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Also check the vac hose for splits ( for the MAP sensor) at the inlet manifold end.
Have you checked the ignition coil for cracks????

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:45 pm 
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Im sure you followed the procedure for checking timing. Waiting until after engine almost stalls (approx 2 min from start self test mode) if not the timing will be way retarded and no power. I think on ED and earlier it was set after the the revs drop(approx 20 sec after self test mode starts)
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Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:07 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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cjh wrote:
Also check the vac hose for splits ( for the MAP sensor) at the inlet manifold end.
Have you checked the ignition coil for cracks????


Thanks mate that was it. I owe you a beer or two if you are ever down this way. Thanks to everyone that posted suggestions.
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