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Inlet manifold valve control diaphragm 

 

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 Post subject: Inlet manifold valve control diaphragm
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:32 pm 
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What does it do? We (my brother and I) disconnected it on the weekend and it actually feels faster. The wife took it for a spin (she didn't know we were tinkering on it) and actually commented on how quicker it felt off the line. There's no reference in my Max Ellery workshop about it and what it does.

Can anyone give me a hand here?

Cheers in advance!
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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:04 pm 
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Any response anyone?

I think everyone is out testing it as of now!

stay tune..........I'll be back in an hour. :lol:

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:10 pm 
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I am not actually sure what "inlet manifold valve control diaphragm" refers to. I would guess that its the BBM vacuum actuator or maybe the ISC?

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:13 pm 
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i think he means the variable inlet manafold. helps increase the air speed over and under 3000 rpm.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:16 pm 
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Yeah thats what I would think. The BBM actuator switches at 3800 to optimise the runner length for low or high rpm torque.

Messing with it doesnt give you more power, but it does change the shape of the torque curve. If you disconect it you will lose about 5nm of torque higher in the rpm range which might make you feel like the bottom end is stronger.

Even if it isn't, there is nothing in the engine bay that results in more power when unplugged.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:31 pm 
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I have an EF Fairmont Ghia, if that helps. On my brother's NA fairlane he took the vacuum hose off, as like you said it controls the fuel over a certain rpm. Not sure about the EF though.

All it feels like in the car is a lighter accelerator. (like you not towing a trailer anymore)
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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:38 pm 
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some people just shouldnt play with their cars :roll:

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 12:16 am 
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I think Fiftyone has got it. I've been having some weird running probs with the Fairmont. Thought it may have been the Chiptorque chip. At idle (with the chip in) the actuator goes nuts (up and down) which is a little wierd, as I understand it should really move in the higher RPM. Lately, the car has intermittenly been running like a bag of sh*t, like it's on three cylinders, smoke coming out the back, thermos on high, no temp reading.

And when tonight it started happening again, pulled the chip and everything went back to normal. Sweet as. However now I have to stop the idle from surging.
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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 12:19 am 
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It also may explain why when I blocked the vacuum line that it ran a little quicker as, if the secondaries (so to speak ) were opening up a idle, I'm assuming it would run a little rich, hence why it seems quicker when I blocked it off with the chip in.
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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:29 am 
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Yes the BBM actuator should only switch at 3800rpm, no sooner no later. Having the short runners open does not make it run rich but it will reduce the low rpm performance. Sounds to me like your car has computer or wiring issues. Was the chiptorque chip you are using programmed specifically for your ecu (you cant swap them between cars without reprogramming)?

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 7:14 am 
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Yep! there is another poster on this forum who had similar probs with his Ford. Turned out to be a faulty batch of ChipT chips.
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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 7:54 am 
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I'm with stock on this one, having the secondary short runner open at low rpm won't do anything other then lowering intake air speed.
accelerator pedal would feel spongy at low rpm & you'll relay on kick down at half throttle for any acceleration frill.
you've just lost bottom end torque by opening both at low rpm.


maybe it would be handy removing the butterflies but leave the vacuum hose connected if it was force induced, its pressurized anyway :P

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:07 pm 
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I have had a win. Chip kinda crapped itself last night, well the car was running like crap. Any way took the chip into work today, and after closer inspection noticed that a couple of the female springy tongue things on the connector were a little lower than the rest.

However did a bit of bending and fixed the connector up. Interestingly fixed a $600 chip with a 0.5c pin.

Car runs fine now, no probs, xcept for the diaphragm vacuum. When idling there's a fairly strong vacuum from the line that actuates the butterfly's. Is this normal or should it only move the butterfly at high rpm.

For some reason my bro is telling me that it is the other way around, however everyone knows you should never trust family!
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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:11 pm 
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rossi wrote:
When idling there's a fairly strong vacuum from the line that actuates the butterfly's. Is this normal or should it only move the butterfly at high rpm.


For the 3rd time in this thread, the BBM mechanism should only switch at 3800rpm.

Pop the hood and start the car, note the position of the mechanism at idle - it should be moving, just stuck in the closed position. Get someone to rev the engine to 4000 rpm or gram the throttle cable and do it from the engine bay. The switch should snap into the open position at 3800rpm. If it does this, then it is working correctly. If it doesnt something is stuffed. A functioning BBM will ALWAYS give better performance than a non functioning one.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:36 pm 
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My fault. What I should've asked is, that when the car is turned off, the butterfly's are actually in the OPEN position, and that when the car is idling, the butterflys are actually closer to the CLOSED position.

My brother stated that on his EA LTD it is the other way around.
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