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Installing a cam in a EF/L Engine ? 

 

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 Post subject: Installing a cam in a EF/L Engine ?
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 3:22 am 
Tyre Shredder
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Hey guys,

Just need a bit of information before i attempt this. I understand that its highly important that i dont let the chain slip a cog on the cam gear :shock: , but my question is, is there only one way a cam can go onto the gear?????? cause if there isnt, wouldnt what way i put the cam on completely change the timings? or does it have a notch or something meaning i can only put it in the one way.......

Thanks heaps in advance,
Saiken

**I have a workshop manual too btw**

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 4:55 am 
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It's keyed so only one way.

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 5:36 am 
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Good Luck!

What cam did you choose?

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 7:46 am 
Tyre Shredder
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ummmm wade 1636 for now, as i have an auto and no high stall, when money allows ill purchase a bigger cam and high stall amongst other things.

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 8:58 am 
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do you have a second set of shims?

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:44 am 
Tyre Shredder
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Yep, i've read all the tech doco's just wanted to clarify that it only went on one way.

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:48 am 
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when you pull the cam gear off the cam, you can run a bar across the top of the engine and tie the cam gear to it to keep the tension on, or you have to remove the power steering pump and bracket and release the tensioner and set it again. Not really a hard job, but more time consuming and the tensioner can be a royal pain especially if you try to do it leaving in the block
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:54 am 
Tyre Shredder
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yeah, i was planing on putting a bar across the engine, with the cam on it to keep it tensioned, or the old broom handle with a brick trick. I do how ever have a workshop manual so i can re tension it if need be, but i'm hoping i wont need to.

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:06 am 
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Yep turn the crank over till the cam gear is turned enough so you can tie a rope to the top of it dead centre to the bar above. Just dont tie the rope towards the side of the cam gear cause it will pull the cam gear away from the tensioner then you HAVE to reset the tension

Also as your undoing the rocker arm bolts, start wrapping tape around each arm/lifter as they lift up so they dont fall out everywhere

Keep the last four bolts loosely sitting in the rocker assembly when you pull it off because it keeps it all together from falling apart

When you refit the rocker assembly, start tightening each bolt progessively in the specified order and remove each bit of tape from the arm/lifters as you need to before they clamp down onto the valves making it hard to remove the tape.

Use medium strength loctite on the cam gear bolt. Block the four oil galleries in the head with rags before your start. Any other questions just ask.....
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 11:16 am 
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Is one set of shims from ford enough for the 1636???
and
How much should i pay for lifters, as i want to replace them too while i have the rocker gear off.

Thanks again,
Saiken

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 11:17 am 
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Bursons wants $20.90 each, so $250.80 to replace all of them........

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:12 pm 
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F**k!!!! I think I only paid $10 each, so all up was around $120 I think $250 is an absolute rip off.

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:18 pm 
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One set of shims should be fine, Unfortunately , I can't recall where I ended up getting my lifters from, and cant find the receipt.

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:49 pm 
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damn, if anyone else can help me with where to get them from it would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Saiken

 

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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:22 pm 
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grub73 wrote:
F**k!!!! I think I only paid $10 each, so all up was around $120 I think $250 is an absolute rip off.


i dont think so, unless you got them at a trade price.

Ford charge 60 bucks each, so 20 bucks aftermarket is a fuggin bargain :lol:
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