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| Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon |
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I would try heating the block with an oxy torch and spraying freezer spray at the shaft. you may be just able to get it to come out. there is no such thing as seized permanently unless it has welded itself in which is unlikely. Since it was running previously You should be able to shock it out. I have released a lot of jammed parts this way, old rusty pipes etc.
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| TROYMAN |
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i think
the whole problem was created by a over tight cam chain. i just changed the cam in my car and when i fitted it i didnt release the chain tensioner. and when it fired it up it had that whine sound from the front on the timing case. after a few mins i decided to kill it and look at what was wrong before it did damage. the chain was to tight. after removing the tensioner and re-setting it.the whine went away. and afaik the aux gear is the week point in the chain set up.. so a over tight cam chain = dead aux shaft.or extreme guide wear. |
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| phongus |
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TROYMAN wrote: i think
the whole problem was created by a over tight cam chain. i just changed the cam in my car and when i fitted it i didnt release the chain tensioner. and when it fired it up it had that whine sound from the front on the timing case. after a few mins i decided to kill it and look at what was wrong before it did damage. the chain was to tight. after removing the tensioner and re-setting it.the whine went away. and afaik the aux gear is the week point in the chain set up.. so a over tight cam chain = dead aux shaft.or extreme guide wear. I thought the the timing chain tensioner is a self tensioning unit? You just release it and it springs and tensions the tensioner? So how exactly can you over tighten it?... BTW I am doing my timing chain tensioner at the moment and I don't plan on snapping anything...so help is appreciated. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
phongus, i assume he meant, he changed the cam over without trying to let any tension off the chain, and when he slipped the cam gear back on it was too tight, cause the tensioner shifted out trying to regain tension
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| MoNGooSE |
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Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: I would try heating the block with an oxy torch and spraying freezer spray at the shaft. you may be just able to get it to come out. there is no such thing as seized permanently unless it has welded itself in which is unlikely. Since it was running previously You should be able to shock it out. I have released a lot of jammed parts this way, old rusty pipes etc.
Like I said buddy. It aint coming out. I used everything imaginable. Including what you just said. Besides, there'd more than likely be metal shavings in the oil by this stage which writes off the block anyway. I agree with phongus. It's what I've thought all along. play in the chain could cause the shaft to seize. It would also explain the massive amount of chain rattle I was getting just before the shaft seized.
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| phongus |
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FordFairmont wrote: phongus, i assume he meant, he changed the cam over without trying to let any tension off the chain, and when he slipped the cam gear back on it was too tight, cause the tensioner shifted out trying to regain tension
Oh right...was tired and must've read it wrong  ...need more sleep  .
Thanks FordFairmont for pointing that out .
phong =P~
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| shnoza |
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Well i had to take out the cam as it was out by 1 tooth after chaning a headgasket. During this process, i did tighten the chain. I must of tighten it to tight. Had it all working and took it for a test drive and then the chain snaped which could of caused the aux shaft to sezie.
Ive taken out the dizzy and tried using a crow bar to push it out and had no luck. The thing that i dont get is how does it sezie in there? There is nothing for it to get stuck on or in. I guess im up for another engine now. More money to spend on the stupid car.
_________________ "Chuck Norris does not sleep. He waits."
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| MoNGooSE |
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Next time my headgasket blows I'm getting a new engine regardless. It's easier to install and ends up being cheaper! $500 for a second hand motor with warranty and you get anywhere from $200-$300 for an otherwise good engine with a blown headgasket. And an engine swap is a piece of piss if you've got ramps and a forklift
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| shnoza |
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It would work out cheaper for an engine change. This headgasket cost me over $800. Like you said, can get an engine for that price.
So does anyone know where to get a cheap engine in sydney?
_________________ "Chuck Norris does not sleep. He waits."
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| MoNGooSE |
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shnoza wrote: This headgasket cost me over $800.
That's one expensive headgasket... I only payed $70 for mine in a set!
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon |
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I paid $2k for mine last time. LOL
I had nowhere to work on the car and with only one car getting parts etc. was too hard. My wife said just get it fixed so i limped it to the engine specialists in sunshine and got them to do everything. new water pump as it was shagging out, idlers, welsh plugs seeping, rear main seeping. Injector reco. the result was a car that ran better than it had in 3 years.
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| TROYMAN |
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phongus wrote: TROYMAN wrote: i think the whole problem was created by a over tight cam chain. i just changed the cam in my car and when i fitted it i didnt release the chain tensioner. and when it fired it up it had that whine sound from the front on the timing case. after a few mins i decided to kill it and look at what was wrong before it did damage. the chain was to tight. after removing the tensioner and re-setting it.the whine went away. and afaik the aux gear is the week point in the chain set up.. so a over tight cam chain = dead aux shaft.or extreme guide wear. I thought the the timing chain tensioner is a self tensioning unit? You just release it and it springs and tensions the tensioner? So how exactly can you over tighten it?... BTW I am doing my timing chain tensioner at the moment and I don't plan on snapping anything...so help is appreciated. phong =P~ ok i mean it was over tight because in my case i didnt release the tensioner when i removed the cam(i used a short cut to hold the sprocket up to keep tension on the tensioner) and it failed. when re-instaling the cam.the cam sprocket still went over the cam shaft but it was a little harder to get on. i thought its ok untill i started it up and the whine began. so in my case it was to tight! it must have only been a bees d**k to tight as i could still get the cam gear on without 2 much hassle. the tensioner is one way self adjusting it will allow the tensioner out in small incruments and will not go back untill you release it. |
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| TROYMAN |
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FordFairmont wrote: phongus, i assume he meant, he changed the cam over without trying to let any tension off the chain, and when he slipped the cam gear back on it was too tight, cause the tensioner shifted out trying to regain tension
thats exactly what happened.... |
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| shnoza |
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MoNGooSE wrote: shnoza wrote: This headgasket cost me over $800. That's one expensive headgasket... I only payed $70 for mine in a set!I bought the gasket kit plus head servicee which was $350. Then i had to take out the timing cover and plus gaskets for that.... Plus some tools. It all adds up in the end. 
_________________ "Chuck Norris does not sleep. He waits."
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