Hi Alfy looks like some ones done a really neat job of welding ur sump up i would have gone that way but as i can weld the k frame it was easier for me to do it that way rather than pay some one to weld the sump, I see u have changed ur timing case cover as well.

Figured out this morning why my extractors werent sealing too well i mustve hit them with the motor when taking the motor out and slighlty bent one so will give it a good hit and that should fix it but had i been able to buy a decent extractor gasket that would have fixed it as well but they really arent that much thicker than the standard ones these days so maybe next time i will buy three.

Also i couldnt get it to run properly on petrol so thought i had the lines on back the front so swapped them around it still wouldnt run on petrol and then i ended up with a whitsling sound in my tank so swapped them back and now it runs on petrol ? had a few people looking though when i pulled up at lights they were all looking to see were the whistling noise was coming from lol.

I think you only have to cut the Air con spacers if you use the EF alternator i didnt have any issue as i used the Au alternater and the EF air con and didnt cut the spacers and it lined up perfectly so i think its only if you use the EF alternator u have to cut those spacers but check it before you cut them.

And i am sure both alternators sit in a different position ef higher and the Au lower which is why their is a differance in the drive belts with the AU belt being longer

My aircraft welder mate did a great job with the sump. Interesting with the aircon spacers. Looks like I'll cut mine just like Josh did as I have the EF setup. How did you go with the Thermostat housing? Mine is dual fuel and one of the coolant lines for the converter comes from the thermostat housing where the temp sensor would normally go. I'd like to leave the AU one on there as it's in really good nick but then I have no way to connect my converter. Did you swap your EF one over to the AU engine?

I'll probably have to fork out some extra dollars and buy a new thermostat housing and gasket. (my NF one is badly corroded) Maybe possible to drill and tap the AU housing where the casting is for the original EF/EL sensor.

Just phoned ford dealer. Not worth drilling and tapping as It's only $65 for thermo housing and gasket. I'll just throw a new EF one on it. The whole thing will owe me about $660 with the new housing. The engine was $365, AU bell housing $30, gaskets(inlet, timing cover set, BBM, sump and rocker cover) and water pump $200 (didn't remove the head) and thermo housing $65. I'm sure it will cost a little more once I discover things during the swap.

I used the Ef thermo housing and this motor runs cooler the the old ef one did but now have a problem it some times takes off and runs in second gear and wont change and every now and then when i turn it off and start again its runs ok? have already change the switch but no change just did it so will have a look if i have either too much fluid or not enough in it but it ran all day yesterday without missing a beat?

Cheers for the info. Sorry to hear about your gearbox problems. You did say in your thread that the car (AU)was in an accident. Just wondering if maybe the impact has jolted something out of position. You did fit an auto didn't you? The wrecker that sold me the donk and bellhousing told me that the AU gearbox was longer and I needed the linkages from the AU for the swap. I didn't buy them as I didn't believe him. I think Troyman has confirmed that the EF and AU autos are the same length so shouldn't be your problem. Other than checking the wiring and fluid level, I can't really offer any other suggestions. Any chance you crushed any wires whilst removing or fitting the trans?

Ef and AU boxes are the same it went right in the only thing i had to change was the gearbox cross member to bolt up to the car and yes bought it all as one it had been in a side on front smash but it drove really good yesterday i think it could be some water some where imy son washed the motor yesterday for me (Fathers day) so maybe its just wet but i have some spare geabox wiring here form another ef so will change the wiring and see if that makes a differance its got to be some thing simple i was only commenting to all how smooth the changing of the gears was and now its not changing at all?

Hey nice work with your conversion mate, I like your sump mod. If my tig welder was able to weld alloy I would have modded the sump instead of the kframe. Your mate has done a top notch job with the sump.

Josh

Alan good to see your engine conversion is done, not sure what to say about the trans accept it has to be something simple if it was running fine the other day. have you done the simple things like make sure there is enough fluid in there?

Thanks Josh gearbox all sorted out it was the wiring loom dont know why but pulled the plug apart put it back together and moved the wiring loom around and presto all good again so fingers crossed the loom doesent move but if it does i know what the problem is this time, took it into Ipswich and back and never missed a beat really happy with the conversion and a much better motor now under the bonnet, But again a big thank you to all who helped and can i add if you have pictures add them it makes a differance to people like me.

Still have a couple of little bugs like one of the injectors must be crook but will get another when i next go to the wreckers and a good clean up overall.

so thanks guys

Alan

great thread guys, although it still did leave me a little confused. Im about to attempt this next week, and want to work out all the research before starting.

Question, why do i have to use an au alternator? and if i do buy an au alternator will it bolt up using my existing ef brackets or do i need to ask for one complete with brackets..?

using ef air con + au alternator is it fine to use the EF or AU belt?

Sensors - besides the cam angle sensor (CAS) and the one on the back of the head (the one i don't need to worry about as the ef has its own on the thermostat housing) is there any other sensors that dont line up or need modifying?

i think ive got it all sorted except for the cas and transfering it to where the dissy sits? can someone explain that more in detail?

the reason your best of using the au alternator is its easier..
im using a ef alt on mine only because i had just spent $300 on a new one just before i changed engines over..
to use the ef alt and bracket there is a bit of cutting and modifying..

this is my modded bracket..

 

 

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SV-Valiant .. good to see its all up and running ok!...

Thanks Troyman i am really happy with the choice of getting rid of the EF motor for the Au motor and the way i nearly missed out on this motor on ebay then ended up with the whole car was pure luck but this site is what really helps people like me and the fact that people like you will take the time and help perfect strangers so again thank you.

And to Fordam you dont have to go out and buy a au alternator but i think in the end for it to be an easier transplant use the Au alternator and Au bracket to save time they are only around $50 at Progress road wreckers at wacol here in Qld and if you use the ef air con compressor you will need the Au belt and if you read my thread about the hole in the dizzy you should get it right if not give me a yell and i will be only to happy to explain it again.
again thanks all

Hi Again ive found my gearbox problem it for what ever reason to which i havent figured out why it was the wiring loom from the gearbox end to the plud just changed it all to another one i had lying around and its worked all day with no hassells and i did 489 kilometres today with no hiccups at all.

I made sure before i chenaged it that it was still playing up and sure enough when i started it this morning i only had third gear and the thermo were cutting in now and again when i had only just started it and the smart lock was flashing so buggered if i know what was going on but by changing the wiring loom sorted it all out finally.

It seems to lack the get up and go i thought it would have dont know if my diff is a different ratio as to the later Au but i am happy overall with it.

Seriously considering getting a BA now and playing with it their fairly cheap on ebay

Hi FORDom. I have included some photos I took whilst modding the AU engine for the EF bracket. If you look at the AU engine, you will see castings that protrude from the engine block near the water pump and also the sump. These casting can be cut away (or use Troyman's method which requires no cutting of the engine)if you decide to use the EF bracket and alternator. In my photos you will see where I have drilled a hole into the AU engine to tap/fit bolt. Also some of the cast iron further back had to be cut to miss the EF bracket. I also had to fit some spacers to the rear bracket bolt after drilling and tapping it out.

Once you modify the AU engine for the EF alternator, it is difficult to go back to the AU setup. This is why most say it's easier to just fit the AU bracket and alternator. If you have a look at how Troyman has done his bracket, he is able to revert back to the AU setup if he wishes.

As for the cam sensor (cmp), check out XR-Lane's thread as he explains it really well.

 

 

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