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| Krytox |
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If heating doesn't work, and or everything else you've tried only weakens the head of the bolt.... try cutting off the tapered eadge on the bolt (part the has impregnated itself) this will remove some contact surface and should come loose, if I recall correctly/ this bolt Is not tight internally its just the mating surface,
Hit it with a hammer and keep trying, cut the flange bits off... and try again, all else fails? cut it off and use a quality P&n screw extractor!
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| twase |
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smiley235 wrote: Now for the next stage of problems i'm encountering in my ea gasket replacement. I've released the timing chain ok now and taken out the timing sprocket bolt. Now i'm trying to get out the bolt which acts as the timing chains r.h.s guide which is located on the front right of the head but i've realised some degenerate of a mechaninc has rounded the bloody thing! Any one got ideas on what to do in this C*** of a situation? I had trouble removing mine as I had previously put silicone on it to stop it leaking oil. In the end I had to weld a bolt to the end of it to get it out, the heat was the trick to getting it out BTW.
Cheers TW
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| gutza |
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Not sure if it will work but this is something you could try - maybe borrow?
Its a self adjusting wrench. Similar to the link below http://www.myark.com/Myark_wrench_info.htm The harder you push the tighter it grips, even on rounded surfaces. As suggested before maybe add a piece of pipe to get a bit of leverage. Good Luck |
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| msman |
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a centre punch on the side of the bolt head and a few hits usually gets most stubborn fasteners off.
_________________ why do u write in here. |
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| smiley235 |
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ok, i tried a few methods from above but still, no luck. I have an idea. On the inside, I can see the part coming from the bolt with a little thread on it. Can anyone confirm if this is in actual fact part of the bolt? If so, i was thinking of hacksawing through that threaded part and removing the bolt later which would enable me to remove the head.
_________________ 178.3 rwkw
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| smiley235 |
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Ok, i bought a stud remover from repco, the guy said it works well. But it doesn't work. The tool itself is good and goodquality but cause there isn't a flat surcae (due to the bolts flange) The middle lock gear moves on an angle and the tool slips off the bolt even when im applying pressure against it. If it werent for this bolt, the EA would have been back on the road a week ago!! Its driving me crazy. Here is the tool i was trying to use.
_________________ 178.3 rwkw
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| smiley235 |
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Ok, this is a last request for any information on removing this mother f**k bolt!!!!!!. i got a grinder and tried to make it square but there isnt enough room to get a proper square. I'm so desperate now that i want to cut the bolt in the middle between the chain guide and head but wasn't sure if the head thread was the only thread. for anyone who provides me with info that leads to removal of the bolt, i'll send them a six-pack of beer in the mail. IM THAT DESPERATE.
_________________ 178.3 rwkw
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| Ashman1985 |
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Weld a nut on and undo it with a socket and breaker bar...
Heat is your friend... Failing that, There are specialist places in the phone book dedicated to removing C*** bolts and nuts... |
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| Froudey |
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spray the thing in WB40 coat the mother f**k and try then vince grips again.
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| Walkinshaw |
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The bolt is tight due to tension not the thread itself. Just cut the entire head of the bolt off.
I had a roooooted head bolt, we welded nuts to it and broke 3 sockets and it wouldnt budge. Cut the head off the bolt. removed the head and the thread was able to be un done by hand. Be vicious, cut the head off the bolt.
_________________ Soo many idiots. So few bullets |
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| Krytox |
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what he said, grind the friction part of the bolt, its that part which is siezed! you may have to make it a 8mm bolt but will be looser!
I think i said this in the first reply! but then again, you risk making barely any contact for tools
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| cooki_monsta |
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drill the f**k out then re-thread
 trust me its good anger removal wen u attack the fuktard bolt with a dewalt or your preferred weapon of choice  but then ur gonna need a rethreading tool 
_________________ Mods: sprint kit, steeda short shift, svo lip, El handles, El Air intake, au xr wheels, lukey cat back, jbl focal and pioneer sterio <--- Sold |
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| Ashman1985 |
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Krytox wrote: what he said, grind the friction part of the bolt, its that part which is siezed! you may have to make it a 8mm bolt but will be looser!
I think i said this in the first reply! but then again, you risk making barely any contact for tools Not entirely true. Have you ever tried undoing a stainless bolt after it's been torqued up? Impossible unless you have used grease... I doubt cutting the head off the bolt will solve your problems, as the thread binds with the constant heating cooling heating process that it undergoes while the engine is running. Think about getting some pro help before you go grinding the head off. |
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| phongus |
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what happens when u tighten it? wouldnt the thread move in more and then loosen up some if there was some glue or something put on the thread and bolt itself? cause i remember undoing a subborn bolt. i tightened it a little bit more and then it just got loose.......then again it wasnt in the car and wasnt heated and cooled.
phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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