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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:18 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Mine's been doing this lately (starts fine, goes to s**t), but I'm still getting decent acceleration and power. Pretty much, the only difference I've noticed is slightly less fuel consumption. Still, I suppose it would help acceleration if it were clean.

Anyway, has someone made a tech document? I've got a service manual, but knowing someone else has actually benefitted from it helps convince me. Plus that thing is as old as the car with black and white illustrations, photos are my saviour!

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 11:50 am 
Tyre Shredder
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joolz wrote:
Its on the rear of the injector rail. As far as i know it controls the amount of fuel pumped through the injector depending on the pressure in the fuel rail. I guess if the reg is stuck shut it could actually pump in too much fuel or if its open too much not allow enough for when you put the foot down. Either of these IMo could cause poor idle and performance. I have noticed mine idles rough in cycles when hot. Like the fuel pressure is up and down.


wouldn't the injectors be controlling how much fuel goes into the engine, the eec system seems to manage that side of it, so if it was running rich or lean it could change the injector pulse to adapt?? please correct me if I'm wrong, thats just my understanding of how it works. so too much fuel wouldn't be a problem, however too little would become a problem for it.

 

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Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap.
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 11:51 am 
Tyre Shredder
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Airved wrote:
Mine's been doing this lately (starts fine, goes to s**t), but I'm still getting decent acceleration and power. Pretty much, the only difference I've noticed is slightly less fuel consumption. Still, I suppose it would help acceleration if it were clean.

Anyway, has someone made a tech document? I've got a service manual, but knowing someone else has actually benefitted from it helps convince me. Plus that thing is as old as the car with black and white illustrations, photos are my saviour!


i second a tech doco. if i can resolve this problem i'll submit one with COLOR photos!!

 

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Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap.
Soon to be: The FalcMont - Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=53&t=120773

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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:00 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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caseyaberhart wrote:

also the car has stalled on me before at lights. and sometimes when i brake it feels like the ISC is fighting against the brakes. i guess its preventing stalling?


It could be someone has bumped up the idle and the tps sensor is seeing part throttle?

The idling rough issue could also be coolant temp sensor maybe?
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:50 pm 
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caseyaberhart wrote:
joolz wrote:
Its on the rear of the injector rail. As far as i know it controls the amount of fuel pumped through the injector depending on the pressure in the fuel rail. I guess if the reg is stuck shut it could actually pump in too much fuel or if its open too much not allow enough for when you put the foot down. Either of these IMo could cause poor idle and performance. I have noticed mine idles rough in cycles when hot. Like the fuel pressure is up and down.


wouldn't the injectors be controlling how much fuel goes into the engine, the eec system seems to manage that side of it, so if it was running rich or lean it could change the injector pulse to adapt?? please correct me if I'm wrong, thats just my understanding of how it works. so too much fuel wouldn't be a problem, however too little would become a problem for it.


closed loop control usually takes place during cruise (hence you have to hold the revs around 2000rmp to see the oxygen sensor cycle back and forth between rich and lean), not acceleration or idle as far as i know... the computer assumes the fuel pressure regulator is working and thus opening and closing the injector at a specific rate should deliver the right amount of fuel based on engine speed, air density, etc etc.

a faulty fuel pressure regulator might not be just failed all on or all off, could be delivering slightly too much or too little fuel, at most times would hardly be notticed except at idle...

i still need to get a fuel pressure gauge so i can check mine, when hot i get the idle hunting around, drops down low (almost stalling) then comes back up... give it a good rev and it seems ok again... but i also have a weeping head gasket so who knows, the car is old, things wear... without replacing half the parts in the engine bay i doubt it will ever run 'like new' again...
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 3:32 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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joolz wrote:
I have the exact same problem and all of the above suggestions dont work. Im putting it down to a sticky fuel reg as it appears to be fuel related and its about the only thing that hasnt been changed!

Ive changed fuel filter, injectors, plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor button, iat and oxy sensor, fuel pump (old one failed) Tried different isc, map sensor, tps and have put in a better ecu. Its not a vacuum leak on the intake nor is the cat blocked.


did you clean the TB?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:05 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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FordFairmont wrote:
caseyaberhart wrote:

also the car has stalled on me before at lights. and sometimes when i brake it feels like the ISC is fighting against the brakes. i guess its preventing stalling?


It could be someone has bumped up the idle and the tps sensor is seeing part throttle?

The idling rough issue could also be coolant temp sensor maybe?


the idle screw hasn't been touched. it still has the anti-tamper "paint" on it.
the coolant temperature on the dash appears to be working properly.

 

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Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap.
Soon to be: The FalcMont - Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=53&t=120773

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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:10 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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caseyaberhart wrote:
FordFairmont wrote:
caseyaberhart wrote:

also the car has stalled on me before at lights. and sometimes when i brake it feels like the ISC is fighting against the brakes. i guess its preventing stalling?


It could be someone has bumped up the idle and the tps sensor is seeing part throttle?

The idling rough issue could also be coolant temp sensor maybe?


the idle screw hasn't been touched. it still has the anti-tamper "paint" on it.
the coolant temperature on the dash appears to be working properly.


only way to see if the sensor is working properly is too remove it, and immerse the bottom half in cold water along with a thermometer. Then gradually heat the water up and measure resistance with a multimeter between the connectors at 10 dg, 20 dg, 30dg...... etc.

Each stage of temp must register a certain resistance which is important info for the ecu.
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:13 pm 
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zxhoon wrote:
the car is old, things wear... without replacing half the parts in the engine bay i doubt it will ever run 'like new' again...


you should be able to get it running near new if you replace things like fuel components and cleaning out things though, right??

i'm taking it to ford on wednesday for a diagnostic and quote.

i'm going to read the KAM myself so i'll post results soon.

 

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Stock EL Gli Sedan, Tickford 98 EL/AU Hybrid Swapped in after aux shaft failure due to a lazy mechanic who can't service cars and aftermarket distributor-of-death-made-in-china crap.
Soon to be: The FalcMont - Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=53&t=120773

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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:56 am 
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I was talking about mine sorry, if the engine is in good working order (head gasket good, compression good, etc.) then yes, replacing older parts that are effecting how the car runs will make it run better...

i bought my car for 4 grand over 14 months ago, havent flogged its guts out all the time but have given it a good blast every week (still a hoon at heart i guess) serviced it once, great car really but it is getting old and needs engine work soon... thats all i think when i notice its not running right 'its a 12/13 year old car with 180k on the clock' will need $$ spent sometime i guess... the question is do you spend hundreds of dollars replacing all these items that may or may not fix the problem.. spend hours trouble shooting... or im considering a modified AU engine to put in, low ks, will need some extra bits but at the end of the day can you beat having an engine with <100k on it? and then you can rebuild the stock engine in your own time to make a total beast out of it...

/ramble :p
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:14 am 
Getting Side Ways
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f**k, its really got me how ppl spend so much money and still have lemons! surely the E series isnt that bad after a few years.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:30 am 
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define a lemon, is that a car that from the factory had problems and shouldnt have been sold to the public, or a car thats getting up near the end of its technical service life that hasnt been serviced regularly... these cars are still put together by people in the end, one car might be ever so slightly different to the next as it rolls off the line, casting and machining tolerances, etc. might not mean anything when new but as they get older more than likely makes the difference...

am i rambling again? sorry... up too late :p
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:59 am 
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tips and tricks ,might help , fuel replace filter on an older car its possibly never been done people dont like getting under the car to do it , injector o ring srink replace if ya think you may have an air leak (use oilcan around the base of injector will hear sucking) fuel reg , ive cut one up and it also has a very fine mesh filter inside, intake gasket one of the largest problems after head gasket , just put low k au2 in my nc2 when changing the manifold noticed that the gast around no. one was broke underneath and had been from the factory, rear bolts on intake come loose if so replace gast retighting is actually to late gasket would allready be damaged , check plugs for even burn manifold leak will show one running lean, ecu/ o2 sencer change things slowly over about 100ks if allsencers are good , noticed head gast probs no. one or six will start sucking water eventaully causing miss / roll at idle

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:54 am 
Getting Side Ways
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FordFairmont wrote:
my car has got the exact opposite problem.

it misfires bad and runs like a pig for the first few minutes of a stone cold start, then will run fine for the rest of the day


i fiound the cause if anyone has the same issue.

i fitted another o2 sensor i had lying around and problem solved, which is strange cause i only just fitted a new sensor not long ago and its f**k already?
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:12 pm 
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that is strange, i would have thought the O2 sensor isnt even used at start up/warm up...
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