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New engine build up 

 

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 Post subject: New engine build up
Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 12:01 pm 
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OK guys here is the deal.

I am going to pull the engine out of the XR6 before long, and stick it in the corner of a warehouse. but before this happens I will be building a NEW engine up. what I am after is pretty much what parts would you use, how would your do it.. bare in mind this is a NAT ATMO engine I am building!! no Blowers no Turbo('s). Plans at the moment incluse knife edging, blueprinting, porting polishing, cam, ACL HPC rebuild kit. don't wanna bore it out unless absolutly nessasary.

Tell what you would do, what you would avoid, there is a RPD cam going in that is a must! RPD rockergear, basically the rebuild will be done by RPD and the boys.. what direction do you think a top NAT ATMO engine should take to get the best results.

The compromise is this..

My wife also needs to be able to drive the car easily during the week, as I have a second car that I run to and from work in and this is the family car, to an extent. the car see circuit work and drag runs also..

Advise, instruct, debate let me know what you would do.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 12:47 pm 
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oh yeah forgot to mention incase it was not obvious.. this is for an EL XR parts that come out of this car will NOT be put up for sale..

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:55 pm 
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had to bloody bump myself!!
opinion?

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 3:28 pm 
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whats the max RPM you are looking at using?
and how much are looking at spending?

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 5:28 pm 
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sell your second car, keep the xr for yourself, buy your wife something nice and work it up as much as you can!

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 9:53 am 
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is this to beat your dyno run of 113rwkw?? hehe just stirring s**t up :P

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:21 am 
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yeah s**t has been stired.. I always had an engine build on the cards, I am not after kilowats here, I want torque.. kilowatts is for kebabs. it will still only rev to 5800 as the stroke is not suited to going much further with any great benefit,

Budget??? I want ideas first then I will figure out to to finance them.. I don't wanna say its $1000 if it will realisticly cost 3x that.. pretty much what do you know that works well, theories about making it work better.

all that type-o-s**t. thanks guys.

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:41 pm 
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how about you just rebuild to factory specs!!!

you want drivability, you don't want to change anythign and you don't want anything else form the engine. Just do a standard rebuild!!!!

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:56 pm 
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Theres not much performance to be gained by the bottom end, especially if you dont plan to run it past 5800. Might as well build it back to stock spec and just go with a head/cam package from your preferred go-fast supplier.

In stock form these bottom ends are pretty damn tough, I doubt any well tuned N/A package has any chance of breaking them.

I did have mine balanced, blueprinted and bored 0.060" oversize and built up with o/s bearings, short skirt pistons and stronger rods.. not sure if it really made much differenece in the power dept, but it certainly kept smooth up and over 7000rpm.

So no boost, no high rpm - just buy up a low mileage stock EL donk for a couple of hundred and spend the money elsewhere.. even the low boost turbo guys go this way!

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:22 pm 
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ok may need to rethink what I am after out of an engine then..

how would you do it, and what specs would you build to then.

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:27 pm 
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If i was to have another go at a bang-for-buck 4L, I'd get a low mileage bottom end, a head with some cheap port work, and bolt on some cheap boost.

Its the only way to go!

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:31 pm 
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I'd go stock bottom end, freshly machined crank and block, clean up ports in head, maybe deck it a bit, all new genuine gaskets throughout including AU metal HG, and thats about it really.
Thats exactly what Im doing actually, as well as dumping the EEC, going to BBM, and mebbe a serpentine conversion...

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:50 pm 
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If you want bottom end powaaah speak to Joe about getting what ever Jase has in his. The 500 odd nm he is laying down sounds like what you're after :)

Either that or It's performance are pretty well priced for whole engine rebuilts, but as others have said if you don't need to touch the bottom end then you may as well just do the head.

Waggin wrote:
I did have mine balanced, blueprinted and bored 0.060" oversize and built up with o/s bearings, short skirt pistons and stronger rods.. not sure if it really made much differenece in the power dept, but it certainly kept smooth up and over 7000rpm


Slightly off topic, but was this your old It's Performance engine ?
I remember Mark telling me it'd rev to 7000rpm but I haven't put it to the test yet ( and I'm scared to :lol: ) What did you actually take it to ? I guess power starts to drop off up top anyway so 6500 is the highest I'll probably take mine...

 

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Last edited by Hyena on Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:55 pm 
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Hyena wrote:
Slightly off topic, but was this your old It's Performance engine ?
I remember Mark telling me it'd rev to 7000rpm but I haven't put it to the test yet ( and I'm scared to :lol: ) What did you actually take it to ? I guess power starts to drop off up top anyway so 6500 is the highest I'll probably take mine...


Yeah, that was the It's Performance build. I couldn't get it past 7000rpm because the 24lb injectors were at 100% duty cycle :P It was definantly going to keep producing power!!!

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:00 pm 
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I have serious doubts that an 4.0 can be built to handle 7k rpm (by handle I mean can regularly be revved there without blowing)

 

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