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Nothing cheaper than this head repair LMAO 

 

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 Post subject: Nothing cheaper than this head repair LMAO
Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 4:55 pm 
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Hey guy how far do you think ill get i say 20 mins but hopping for a few months lol

Don't worry when i was doing this i was saying im insane lol

Here the head corossion
Image

Here another one
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LOL
Here my solution
Image

yer you saw right lol
Image

Second port
Image

I agree with that ur thinking right now im a fu(king idiot with no brains but hey like they say never hurts to experement well maybe this one will a little but someone got to try it and it looks like me LOL

Who much do you guys think it would of cost to get it professionally fixed up here in brizzy

Thx guys love to hear what u got to say
:D

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 5:07 pm 
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Why dont you just get another head, they are so cheap, if you have a U pullit parts wreckers.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 5:27 pm 
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Quote:
Why dont you just get another head, they are so cheap, if you have a U pullit parts wreckers.


Yer but ill proberly spend the next month going threw all the motors to find each one stuffed in diff ways. plus i don't know of any wreckers that do that anyhow around here in brizzy

 

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 Post subject: Re: Nothing cheaper than this head repair LMAO
Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 5:29 pm 
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Xflow wrote:
Who much do you guys think it would of cost to get it professionally fixed up here in brizzy


Cost me $80 to have all my cooling channels welded up down here in Adelaide.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 5:36 pm 
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Quote:
Cost me $80 to have all my cooling channels welded up down here in Adelaide.


Sweet stuff i might ring around and and see how much it ganna cost me

talking to machanic around and he said that when they weld the ports they will have to shave all the head then if im unlucky which i am laterly they will have to report my satels or something

Well lets see if im lucky or not

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:10 pm 
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opto wrote:
Why dont you just get another head, they are so cheap, if you have a U pullit parts wreckers.


I agree! It's the more reliable way to do it.

The proper way to repair that is to send it to the engine shop to get welded, the whole head has to be heated to a couple of hundred degrees then MIG or TIG'ed.

What you've done there is a stop gap measure. The alloy head and the epoxy will expand and contract at different rates so its only a matter of time before it fails.
And from what I can see in the photos it doesn't look like you ground away the corroded sections back to clean metal :oops: which will only make it fail much quicker.

But I cross my fingers for you and suggest you start saving for a secong-hand head...

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:16 pm 
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LOL
i just did some ringing around and they said it will cost me about $40 a port so it will set me back $80 then he will shave the head which is another $45 then new sadels or something else that cost $9 each i think there 1 for each port what ever they are lol

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 7:42 pm 
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That won't be permanent because the quiksteel dies when exposed to coolant. You should get at least 6 months, moreso if you use plain water. Devcon is exactly the same when monstar porting rotary housings. I haved used quiksteel and it has changed colour and is now weeping ~6months later.
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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 9:11 pm 
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lol. I've used toothpaste as heatsink compound in my computer, so I can't mock.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 9:15 pm 
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LOL didn't it go hard on ya LMAO but creative

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 9:16 pm 
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fnp wrote:
lol. I've used toothpaste as heatsink compound in my computer, so I can't mock.

LOL thats worse!!

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 9:52 pm 
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Years ago, i had a broken crank keyway in my B6 turbo motor.
Loctite engineers were very helpful and sent me spec sheets on some products which they suggested would be a good alternative to removing and replacing the broken crank (keyway).
They stated that many mining companies use these products to fix broken/worn parts to quickly return their machines to service rather than take a much longer and more expensive rebuild approach.
The loctite engineers were very confidant their stuff would do the job.
Most engineering shops were not so confidant with grinding and welding the crank keyway as they said it would not last.
At that time, Mazda's only solution was to buy a new crank, etc as the only way to repair a broken crank keyway.

The product i used was loctite liquidsteel (or quicksteel?) and another loctite bearing and setting compounds at a total cost of $100 AFAIR and a couple hours of work.
The fix has lasted well over 100,000 kms and still doing its job :)
It was only some years later that Mazda (usa) officially sanctioned the loctite solution (but don't know what Mazda aust say about it).

What i am trying to highlight is that these loctite products were used within their designed heat and stress margins and saved me a bucket load of cash by not having to pull the motor out $$ and replace the crank $$$.

I would suggest that using similar products on an engine head would stress the material beyond its design heat and stress envelope and it would soon fail.
In any case, you are not saving much using such an approach as you have already gone to the effort of removing the head.
You would really be better off replacing it with a healthier used head from some wrecker and save your time by not having to redo the job in some months :(

Cheers, Itchione
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Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 6:43 pm 
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im glad mine didnt look like that!

 

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