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Oil + Oil Filter Replacement Docco 

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:15 pm 
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voxace, there is a three proned filter removal tool different than the one in the doco picture that actually has a nut head on the end of it. When you put a socket on it, the prongs have got geared teeth on it and they close up on the filter. Bought it at supercheap for $6.95 after trying to remove a filter for an hour. Best $6.95 I ever spent.
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:24 pm 
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Sounds handy!

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:23 pm 
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also.. always check the old o-ring isnt stuck on still, or ur engines not gonna b round to long.. it can b good to put a dob of silicon on the inside of the hex of the sump plug. just insures no leaks comn thru thread.
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:41 pm 
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i find doing the filter up with a rubber glove works just as tight as you can go with your hand will be fine.
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:33 am 
Oompa Loompa
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recently serviced my ef and when i went to remove my oil filter it would not budge. i used a $10 oil filter remover from repco and it just bent. I had had the head redone about 6 months prior and i swear they must have welded the filter on. i went back to repco and the only other remover was trde quality and it was $71 (jaw on the floor). Anyway he said hed give it to me at trade cost $51 and i reluctently brought it. It was a rachet operated type but high quality. It worked but believe me i have changed heaps of oil filters and never have i had one this tight. i must say though ford wer'nt very kind when they placed the filter where they did cause there is not much access to it on an ef
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:46 am 
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now why do u fill it up the filter half way before replacing it?

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:46 am 
Getting Side Ways
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use the jaw type filter wrench, no room for the other types, will make your job so much easier, see link for photo.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-JAW-REVERSIBLE ... dZViewItem

phong,
fill filter as when its dry and car is started the oil pump must first fill the filter then it gets pumped to the rest of the engine, so your engine is running 'dry' for a few seconds until then, no damage is done, its just for peace of mind.

 

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why do u write in here.

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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:11 am 
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yeh its only a few seconds of running dry, but still.. I dont like the thought of it happening at all :) I hope this thread will help a lot of people in the future
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:03 pm 
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for me just a couple of things. I change my filter when i change the oil. I have a stock ride height and i found all the ramps i have used are..how to put it...a little too steep as my bumper hits the ramp before the tyre does :(....

Remember some models such as my EF has a sump protector which is a metal plate that goes over...you guessed it...THE SUMP... You have to remove this to get to anything.


Seeing as we are making these doco's, i will add my sparkplug one when i do the spark plugs.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:59 pm 
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dry sump capacity of my EL is 5.5l. I think all e-series cars are 5.5l and not 5l as mentioned in doco.

Castrol GT3 15w-40 is now sold in 5.5l bottles at all supercheap outlets.
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 4:04 pm 
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I have only ever done my fliters up hand tight, never had one come off on me yet.. solid grip and strong writs from years of... ahh mechanical work. ;)

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 4:04 pm 
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You only ever need about 5L for an oil change.
There's always a bit left over in the engine no matter how long you drain it.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:21 pm 
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smiley235 wrote:
I thought you should take the oil cap off the engine whilst its draining, speeds up the draining process.


Correct
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:49 pm 
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Here's a pic of my oil filter wrench, I find using this much easier than the usual wrench. I image the 3 leg one would work just as easy.

Image

I also drop the oil when the engine is warm, remove the oil cap whilst draining and tighten the new filter by hand only.

 

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