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| bradley4567 |
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TROYMAN wrote: did you do a mechanical oil pressure test??? if not your just wasting your time playing guessing games.. you should know the procedure on fault finding bradley... or dont they teach the basics at tafe anymore?? otherwise just buy another engine... it will be cheaper...then you can fix the damage to your firewall at the same time.  ..i dont have a pressure tester at home. and fixing that damage was on the list of things to do lols
_________________ ef falcon daily driver |
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| bradley4567 |
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when i pulled the oil filter out, i also pulled out the oil pressure sensor gave it a bit of a crank and nothing came out.
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| SWC |
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Buy a $10 mechanical oil pressure gauge form somewhere and use that or go to the wreckers and find one in a car. Doesn't need to be High quality, it will just tell you if you have any pressure. Also did you put a kit through that pump before you refitted it? Leaving them kicking around on a dirty floor is not the best idea.
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| bradley4567 |
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end result is 0 oil pressure, so this morning i opened up the ford workshop manual and began to remove the sump, turns out being an au engine the sump wont come out the way the book says,
i undid the engine mounts and lifted up the engine as stated in the manual, then i undid all the sump bolts and tryed to wriggle it out to no avail, how do i get the sump out? i have heard you need to drop the k-frame, how hard is this to do? thanks for your help brad.
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| 87SIlude |
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If you can weld just cut the k frame cross beam and drop the sump. Or pull the engine. Or drop the k frame (PITA).
When you got the sump off clean the oil strainer. |
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| TROYMAN |
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bradley4567 wrote: end result is 0 oil pressure, so this morning i opened up the ford workshop manual and began to remove the sump, turns out being an au engine the sump wont come out the way the book says, i undid the engine mounts and lifted up the engine as stated in the manual, then i undid all the sump bolts and tryed to wriggle it out to no avail, how do i get the sump out? i have heard you need to drop the k-frame, how hard is this to do? thanks for your help brad. to drop the k frame, there is a bit of work involved, you need to hold the engine up with a hoist or block and tackle, discinnect the steering rack from the k frame, remove the sway bar, undo the lower control arms,remove the castor rods remove any clips that hold power steering hoses ect and undo the nuts holding the k frame to the rails... its amosts easier to remove the engine? at any point did you remove the oil pump drive from the dizzy hole to see if the aux gear is still ok? as this drives the oil pump.. |
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| 87SIlude |
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Engine out would definantly be easier. Espescially if you don't have access to a hoist.
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| bradley4567 |
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no troyman i didnt check that but i will now.
TROYMAN wrote: bradley4567 wrote: end result is 0 oil pressure, so this morning i opened up the ford workshop manual and began to remove the sump, turns out being an au engine the sump wont come out the way the book says, i undid the engine mounts and lifted up the engine as stated in the manual, then i undid all the sump bolts and tryed to wriggle it out to no avail, how do i get the sump out? i have heard you need to drop the k-frame, how hard is this to do? thanks for your help brad. to drop the k frame, there is a bit of work involved, you need to hold the engine up with a hoist or block and tackle, discinnect the steering rack from the k frame, remove the sway bar, undo the lower control arms,remove the castor rods remove any clips that hold power steering hoses ect and undo the nuts holding the k frame to the rails... its amosts easier to remove the engine? at any point did you remove the oil pump drive from the dizzy hole to see if the aux gear is still ok? as this drives the oil pump..
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| bradley4567 |
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well here is what i think might be the problem,
by looking at the condition of this gear i wonder that the driving gear looked like hmmmm, anyone got a spare they would like to sell me, i can come and pick it up asap  
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| TROYMAN |
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forget it dude, throw the engine away or rebuild it? .. the aux shaft in the block will be cactus aswell, and afaik they are no longer available new.. its a sump,timing case, timing chain removal job to get to the aux shaft..
what makes it worse is the amount of fine metal particals that have now circulated through the bearings ect.. not to mention how much it has been driven with no oil pressure?? been there, done that.. |
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| bradley4567 |
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well, i suppose now i'd better finish off building that bored out ef block i have sitting at home, send the head out for some work and get a cam done,
hmmm, f**k hate cars
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| bradley4567 |
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if i can find the other gear from the other engine i might just chuck it on while i build the new engine, hopefully it will hold out a few weeks,
with the replacement its got acl piston, i've already done the main and big end bearing and rings, so block is almost set, now i need to sort out a head for it
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| TROYMAN |
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look down the hole with a torch and have a look how bad it is?
if the edges are scored you might get away with it for a few weeks, but if the teeth edges are thin and sharp or look like the drive gear, it wont last 10 mins.. |
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| bradley4567 |
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yeah i will, thanks, 2 engines in less than a year, damn unlucky
and this one was actually running well until this
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| bradley4567 |
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just taken a look and the teeth in the engine and they look in really good nick, that gear must be a harder metal then the shaft gear,
im going to put a new gear in it for the time being but i'll get a hurry along with the performance engine build im doing and should hopefully should see that done very soon, and at the same time i'll repair the firewall.
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