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OK...Now I'm P@#$$%, Need HELP ASAP 

 

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 Post subject: OK...Now I'm P@#$$%, Need HELP ASAP
Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 5:59 pm 
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My temperature gauge has NEVER moved from just under the N, but the other day, I didnt turn my thermos on, and temperature got to 3/4 in city (i havent wired up thermo fans to come on auto), but I quickly turned my thermos on and it went back down, no biggie...

Then that night it seen redline a few times (freezing cold night) and i noticed the temperature shot up to O on NORMAL just after 5,300rpm in 3rd, but after i put it in 5th n coasted it, it cooled down to under the N, but then i noticed when driving normal from then, the temperature creeping up to just past the N (not quiet O) then creeping down again to under the N, i thought ok, the thermostat is crook, so i replaced the thermostat, and did a full coolant flush today!

Took it out just before and guess what, it still does it, not on idle though, but only when driving, creeps up, then creeps down, the temperature hunts FFS...

Now ive noticed it DOESNT do it on idle, only when driving, whether or not the fans are on or im in cold as weather on freeway, the temperature still F$%^$ hunts up and down but doesnt move on idle.

I have recently replaced the temperature sensor in the housing so i havent replaced that...

WHAT COULD IT BE, IM IN DESPERATE HELP!

Could it be the actual water pump? Could the waterpump belt be slipping ? If so i dont hear it when driving?

Thanks

Grechie

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:16 pm 
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I would have been more worried about it NOT moving at all, what you describe sounds fairly normal to me. My EA used to sit between N & O most of the time, but if you gave it a hard time it would creep up to R or M. Maybe you have a bit of air in the cooling system, have you bled it ?
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:16 pm 
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Mine does this also,
it started happening after I blew a heater hose on the ring road,
the temp only went to 3/4's but from then on it runs cold in winter and hunts between 1/4 to 3/4 in summer in traffic or on the hwy.
I've replace temp sender unit heaps of times, thermostst every year, temp gauges the works has me beat.
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:20 pm 
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Maybe the sensor had enough?

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:26 pm 
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Its been bled, coolants been flushed, new thermostat, and it still does it, now it doesnt SIT between N and O, it moves up and down up and down but keeps returning to under the N were it USED to always sit.

My problem isnt that its on the N, its the fact its heating and cooling, heating up and cooling down and not sitting still were it used to ALWAYS sit.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:39 pm 
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yes but like said earlier, the sensor could have s**t itself. Everything may be working perfectly but a corrupt signal is being sent to your gauge.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:40 pm 
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drill a 1/8 hole in the thermostat, and it should pretty much solve the problem
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:45 pm 
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mine did the same thing tried heaps of different thermostats differents temps and brands but its fixed now but dont remember which one i used now .will try somehow to find out.
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:03 pm 
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i was havin the same prob pulled up at my mechanics and a pin hole in my radiator bottom hose appeard ,new hose ,new thermostat,bled temp stayed c to low constant for about 350km now its creeping up again grrrrrr!! :x
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:30 pm 
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i can confirm that its not a leak, and its not the thermostats fault, it never used to do it, (genuine ford one) and this new one is also a genuine ford one, I will have to try a new temperature sensor tommorow.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:57 pm 
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66 coupe wrote:
drill a 1/8 hole in the thermostat, and it should pretty much solve the problem



^--------- have you tried that?
you will find it will solve (if not help) the problem.

The temp rises to the point that the thermostat opens.... cold water from the radiator then cycles through the block and the thermostat will close again until the water in the block is heated enough for the thermostat to re-open... and it continues in the same cycle.
By drilling the 1/8 hole, your letting water bleed past the thermostat - 1) letting air bleed out of the system and 2) allowing some hot water to flow through the radiator helping keep the temp somewhat more consistant.
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:58 pm 
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Hmmm I have been having this problem last week. Drove home from work from Altona during peak hour traffic, air con on and stuck in traffic, then noticed the needle was at O on NORMAL and thought, what the? First time it has ever reached that high up...even at the Drag Day in Heathcoate after countless of runs, my car wasn't as hot as that day.

Was fine during the weekend, but once again, today being a bloody hot day, drove home during peak hour traffic (this time 62mins from Altona to Thomastown rather then the 35 odd mins) and temp was at N. At this point I turned off the Air Con and the needle moved from N down to about O and R. Thus blaming the Air Con, but then it started to fluctuate from O and N after a while of stop starting (traffic flowing on average at 10km/hr).

Checked under the bonnet just then...and found out, that it was so hot, that the plastic around my cruise control cable has melted...and left residue on my extractors :(. There was a bit of plastic still hanging off the cruise cable.

Looks like I need to invest in a heat shield as well as thermostat if that is the problem.

Must be the heat getting all the E-series at the moment :?

Thanks for posting this one up Grechie...

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:59 pm 
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Replace the radiator cap!!

If its fluctuations in temperature your experiencing then i'd say the cap isnt holding constant pressure allowing differences in the pressure therefore different boiling points blah blah blah. My ute had the same problem when i got it.

Give it a shot, very cheap so if its not it then no biggie.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 8:18 pm 
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XH5LWEPN wrote:
Replace the radiator cap!!

If its fluctuations in temperature your experiencing then i'd say the cap isnt holding constant pressure allowing differences in the pressure therefore different boiling points blah blah blah. My ute had the same problem when i got it.

Give it a shot, very cheap so if its not it then no biggie.


Cool Cool...will give the nearest auto store a visit tomorrow :D

phong =P~

 

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Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:01 pm 
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You could get your mechanic to pressurise the cooling system and look for leaks. Also it has been hot lately.

 

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