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Only running on 3 cylinders ?! 

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 3:03 pm 
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Take the plasitc belt cover off that sits betweent he power steer pump and the thermostat. Look down and just above the pulley is the Crank Angle Sensor. Undo the wiring and then there should be 2 7mm bolts holding it in. It can be a bit of a prick to get out. Clean her up.

To check the teeth you really need to take off the belt and then rotate the engine with a 22mm socket. All heteeth should be clean and straight with one missing tooth. This tells the ECU when the engine is 60 degrees before TDC (I think that number is right).

cheers
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 6:13 pm 
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Thanks, shame your usefuel information is somewhat lost on me, lol. But I'll have a squiz tomorrow when I get the pulley put on the power steering pump.

Thanks GTbob, Macgyver.

O and GTbob, that's the volume of EFI and Engine management that is specific to EF/EL falcons? Volume 3 then?

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 9:21 pm 
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If you can't find it or need some specific pages, the toowoomba library has it so I can scan some pages for you....I'll have a look next time I'm in there and see if it is appropriate to copy all the relevant parts.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 9:23 pm 
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Don't worry mate, I'll take some pics tomorrow for you, and you can identify if you want.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:37 pm 
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smoke_ wrote:
are you sure it's running on 3 cylinders?
have you individually checked each lead for a solid spark?? and all 6 injectors for a pulse?

could it be bad fuel, a crook fuel pressure reg, pinched line, faulty injector/s, faulty plugs?

was the crank angle sensor replaced?


I dont really think its a fuel issue as the spark is weak before it even gets to the plug. If I remove plug leads 1, 2 and 3 I have to hold the lead a ~ 2 mm from the spark plug peg to get it to jump a spark. If I remove 4,5,6 the spark will jump to the peg or the block from 1cm or more away and you can otherwise see and hear its a stronger spark.

Unless there's something sus with an injector and the computer is making cylinders 1-3 run a reduced spark, but I imagine that's highly unlikely. I've had a few people tell me it can't actually run only on 4,5,6 because of the way the coil packs work, but I guess macgyvers similar problem proves otherwise.

The crank angle sensor wasn't replaced but I measured it 350 ohms, which sounds right and when at the autoelectrician they said it looked good on the scope. I'm pretty sure they also checked the injectors (they had it for 2 days so fiddled with everything they could think of)

The fact that it has really died in the a*** now after having everything fiddled with is strange. Hopefully the apprentice of the guy working on it hasn't stuffed anything else up - I wouldn't know where to start!

I'll check the toothed wheel to make sure all the teeth are clean when I get home


The only consolation at all is that I'm rolling in this while away on holidays :D

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(taken this arvo at santa monica)

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:53 pm 
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oh nice, does it go hard?

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:37 pm 
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Or is it the pov pack V6 version?

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:12 am 
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Yeah, but it went pretty well for a stock V6 auto actually. It was a dream after driving 1200 miles in an auto hyundai accent!!
I thought the transmission was slipping at first when it kicked into 2nd but it seems that the 1st and 2nd gear ratios are quite close. I may or may not have broken traction once or twice :twisted: altho the 'human traction control' , my lovely wife, soon kicked in :lol:

It's depressing that you can get a fully loaded brand new GT for 30k here...

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:41 pm 
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I was reading and reading and thinking "EEC-V supposed to be SEFI" then remembered that the EL is plug compatible with the EB...

the EF EEC was programmed to run Bank-Fire even though it was wired for SEFI... hence updating to AU ECU's brought SEFI in. On the EL Though, the ECU is programmed *and wired* for Bank Fire. A single Driver Failure in the ECU takes care of 3 cylinders.. and its horrible.

My EB Used to blow the Driver transistor when one of the Custom GTI LPG Injectors I was using Shorted (Didnt happen often.. but did happen).

Id place money on the ECU. Change it and it will probably fire up fine.

I diagnosed mine by putting a nice low impedance LED Test Lamp on one of the injector plugs - It wasnt flashing (actually, it was holding the injector on - so the car ran ok at about 4000rpm+)

Thats my bestust guess.

Nigel
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 4:54 pm 
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Are you referring to spark though or just fuel ?
I'm assuming my over fueling issue is coming from the fact that the fuel that's going in isn't being ignited (and the weak spark is obvious as described in prior posts) Unless these transistor(s) you're talking are controlling the spark, in which case I might have 2 problems

What sort of resistor did you run with the LED to test the injectors ? I'm pretty sure the auto elec guys already tested all the injectors but I'll test it myself when I get home.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:37 pm 
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Nigel wrote:
the EF EEC was programmed to run Bank-Fire even though it was wired for SEFI... hence updating to AU ECU's brought SEFI in.


SO, swapping the ECU in an EF for an AU one changes it over to sequential injection? Is it easy to do, and does sequention give much of a benefit?

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:33 pm 
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Maybe some extra power and/or economy at lower RPM

And yes, AU Series I ECU will do the trick.

I had my EF 4L running SEFI using the factory wiring - worked a treat!

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:22 am 
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Interesting. How about you do that to your Fairmont ragvaror, and tell me how you go, lol.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 7:04 pm 
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Ok, so who's got a spare EF or AU1 ecu laying around that I can borrow to troubleshoot ? :wink:

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 7:57 pm 
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Hyena wrote:
Ok, so who's got a spare EF or AU1 ecu laying around that I can borrow to troubleshoot ? :wink:
Yeah I've got an EF manual one - bit far away though . . . . :cry:

Hyena wrote:
What sort of resistor did you run with the LED to test the injectors ? I'm pretty sure the auto elec guys already tested all the injectors but I'll test it myself when I get home.
Use one around 560ohms - if you've done some LED lighting mods, use a spare LED and resistor in series. Measure the injector resistance also - look for shorts or opens.
If you're going to swap ECU's, use an EF auto ECU to test - the car will still run (I'm assuming it's manual), except the fans will be screaming (you can temporarily unplug them) and the car will idle at around 1200RPM - which would probably be helpful in your case.
Plus if you can, plug your original ECU into another EF manual car to test if it's okay or not.

The reason I say this is you're problem may be blowing components in the ECU, so swapping means the replacement cops it too - this also makes it look that the ECU is okay. EF auto ECU's should be plentiful and cheap to get, so no great loss if this is the case.

 

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