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oversize radiator.. 

 

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 Post subject: oversize radiator..
Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:46 pm 
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Ride: BF MK11 XR 6 TURBO ZF 6spd

Power: 225 rwkw

Location: glenwood/sydney
NSW, Australia

i had a taxi radiator once.. new of course! not 1 million kms old hehe :wink: the car seemd to run considerably cooler in all driving conditions... the core of the taxi spec radiator is 10-15mm thicker than the ordinary falcons radiators... obviously why it ran cooler...

since my "ordiary radiator just shat itself (snapped the neck at the top of the radiator) almost cooked my engine).. i was lookn at going back to installing and running the taxi radiator..

my question is...

is there any benifit in using this radiator??
eg) heavy duty?? longer lasting?? very slight power increase as the engine is cooler thus th ecu is putting more fuel in so more power??

im welcome to positive and negative feedback as all helps.. cheers..
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 2:44 pm 
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Okay little grasshopper( have to go back sometime to understand) yes there is.

My research has revealed that to prolong the engine life in a falcon the best operating temperature is 80 to 90 degrees C.

As you should know, underbonnet temp has always been a real drama with the E series so the cooler the better in my opinion.

Make sure you have a good thermostat say 73 degrees C and your fans kick in to control the temp around this area.

Otherwise you may have to talk to me about an unlisted mod Called "Temp control on your Second fan. "

Think about it , if you heat your oil to exsessive temps you actually breakdown the lubricating structure in the oil.

Just put some cooking oil in a frypan and set it to max on a stovetop, you will see what I mean.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:05 pm 
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Yes, but everything is designed to operate at the temperature predetermined by the thermostat. My radiators gone now, and i think ill be replacing it with a three row core. Standard is only a two core. The more surface area for the air to cool down, the more headroom you have for overheating troubles. Oh, and cooking oil is different to engine oil, and a pan on max goes way above 100 degrees :S

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:10 pm 
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Ride: el faimont, dual fuel

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VIC, Australia

they run brass. if i remember right, side tanks so the neck snapping you experienced won't happen.
they are designed for a heavy duty application so have a bit more cooling capacity.

price one up, if it is not too expensive then a normal one then grab it, but if it goes near $300 get a three core as they are far better in terms of cooling capacuty.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:13 pm 
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Location: Karratha
WA, Australia

I run a totally stock set up, i do 160 in 40 plus tempertures, for hundreds of kays at a time, sur eit rises when you stop, to just over a 100, but i have never had any probs at all, as long as the system is in top nick, you dont need heavy duty stuff, taxis are running all the time, and stop start, so maybe in that regard it might help.
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:54 pm 
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Ride: 2.0 Turbo VW

Power: 142 rwkw

Location: Seaford State:
VIC, Australia

One thing I have done to solve temp problems in peak hour traffic and or hot day driving,

I've added 2 double throw relays that are wired in parallel in conjunction with the aircon clutch, thus when the Air conditioner is on, it triggers all 4 relays to put both fans on full speed,
1) saves your scroll air con pump, when they overheat they're almost F**k.
2) lowers temp all round,

3) maximizes air flow and gets that exhaust heat out of the engine bay in standstill position!

and yes, you can disable it for freeway driving via a nice toggle switch.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:43 pm 
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Ride: BF MK11 XR 6 TURBO ZF 6spd

Power: 225 rwkw

Location: glenwood/sydney
NSW, Australia

bowsaw- my car is driven alot... 45 000 km /50 000 km per year...
which is double the average of the sydney motorisd...

so perhaps an upgraded radiator isnt a bad thing...

n krytox- did you set your system up? sounds good! howd u do it??

if i was to follow the sme path as you i would prob pass the info onto an automotive electrician to do the job...

i have limited knowledge with electronics..
positive to positive.. negative to negative.. hehe! :idea: :roll:
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:48 pm 
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Ride: BF MK11 XR 6 TURBO ZF 6spd

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also give the car a bit of curry on the burnout pad n quater miles at eastern creek race way often...

the larger radiator might help a lil more than a stocky there...
oh btw... is a direct fit... the taxi radiator...

the only thing that ended the life of my 1st taxi radiator 1 year ago was when i put the nose of the car lightly/directly into the burnout wall! :roll: :wink: :cry: :shock: :(
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:48 pm 
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Seen triple core brass radiators to suit Falcon 6 on ebay for $250

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:56 pm 
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Ride: Saloon Car EB

Location: St Andrews
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running a big radiator is a advantage for sure
the thing I found mind you this is in the extreme case as its in race use

is that a really big radiator ca cause the water flow to be to fast causing mass water overflow . So if you run a bigger radiator never run without a thermostat and I do me NEVER

ts just a flow reason to slow down the water

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:01 pm 
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NSW, Australia

its all good... i do run a thermostat... just put a new 1 in 2 weeks ago... 4 the run down to the nats... found the old 1 was jamned in the open position!..
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 4:32 pm 
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yeh I added it myself, you need to trigger all the -ve contacts on 3 relays (one is already earthed when a/c is on) takes about an hour to setup actually u need to have one running as current, cant remember... I did draw a diagram if i find it I'll post it,
EL's have a different setup.... I think it is easier too one wire to be added from memory

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:44 pm 
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Ride: EB1 Fairmont Ghia T5 Wagon

Location: Seven Hills, Sydney
NSW, Australia

Hi Guys

I just got off ebay the EF EL twin thermo fan setup. I plan to install this into a EB which at the moment has a single 14" thermo that is dying a slow death.

My plan at the moment is to control both fans with the adjustable thermo switch and have one fan kick in with the aircon.

At the moment I can't use the aircon in traffic as the car overheats in about 10mins (due to stuffed existing fan I think). Is one fan on with the aircon enough? The other will kick in at the set temp.

Sorry for the highjack.

Regards
BenJ

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:15 pm 
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Ride: BF MK11 XR 6 TURBO ZF 6spd

Power: 225 rwkw

Location: glenwood/sydney
NSW, Australia

well... i got my new radiator... it the taxi radiator... the core is 10-12mm thicker.. taking the old radiator out wasnt too bad... i put the new one in.. no probs there...

went to start the car... battery flat...
tried to jump start the car but wouldnt fire...
got the nrma out n he tried to jump the car...-no good..

HEAD GASKIT GOOOONNNNEEEE... posibly more damage internally...

looks like new engine!!! yay!!!!! a chance to start out fresh...
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:08 pm 
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I put a 3 core in the EB and even on a 40C day towing a trailer with the A/C on it didn't even get over 1/4 on the temp guage!

 

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