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Pod in box and stainless intake help. EL fairmont 

 

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 Post subject: Pod in box and stainless intake help. EL fairmont
Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:37 pm 
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I have a mate who is awesome working with stainless steel and Im going to get him to make me some induction piping but I have no idea what would be best. Is is best get one long pipe going from the airbox to the intake or use those rubber hoses for the bends?

Also how do I go about setting up a pod filter inside the airbox?

btw I drive an EL fairmont.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:39 pm 
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The reason for the rubber is to allow for the flex. your motor won't stay stationary while you're reving it, and knowing that your airbox is bolted into place... well something will have to give - hence the rubber joiners.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:39 pm 
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i have a mate who is a turner/fitter (is it the other way around?), who is presently knocking up 2 one for him and one for me, and it is one piece of steel from t/body to airbox, using two short rubber joins at the two ends.

we planned it this way as it looks HEAPS better that the ones that have rubber/silicon bends.

to aviod the flex thing ?(mentioned in post above) it has a rubber join at each end and is mounted to the body with loose rubber mounts near the washer bottle.

for the pod (we both run pods in the stock airbox) he made a pipe that runs from the indents in the lid angles down and the neck of the pod fits over it.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:31 pm 
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You want some sort of flexible peice in there as has been stated as the motor moves when reved, the air box does not, it's bolted to the body.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 11:35 am 
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you can get 3" stainless mandrel bends from most exhaust shop's it really depends on where ya gunna run the pipe work if u used a small flem peice where the pipe work join's to the box it should be fine... put it also depends on the size of the box and the filter .......

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 10:54 am 
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pod in box.... excellent idea.
steel intake pipe... not so good.
next time your driving and you have reached your destination pop the bonnet and feel how hot the plastic intake pipe is. then remember the steel conducts heat better than plastic and wil heat the air travelling inside the intake more than your plasic intake currently does.
my vote goes for modifying the current intake pipe or skip on down to Autobarn and pick up intake hose for $30.
these are my views...

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:48 pm 
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CaRtZ wrote:
pod in box.... excellent idea.
steel intake pipe... not so good.
next time your driving and you have reached your destination pop the bonnet and feel how hot the plastic intake pipe is. then remember the steel conducts heat better than plastic and wil heat the air travelling inside the intake more than your plasic intake currently does.
my vote goes for modifying the current intake pipe or skip on down to Autobarn and pick up intake hose for $30.
these are my views...


Hey mate, just wondering if you were able to elaborate on this at all?

I am considering getting a stainless intake pipe made up to go between the airbox and the throttlebody.

However, I can see your point regarding the air temp stuff. I am only doing it for looks.

What do you mean 'mod the intake pipe', or even the $30 option? (Are you talking about just replacing whats there with the same?)

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:23 pm 
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check out my intake in my gallery for ideas...
im not saying its the best option, but for $60 of stainless 3" pipe and $30 for the slicone bend, its not bad at all!

the only area i would be keeping away from concerning heat is the big u-turn bends u see people do over the rocker cover. the rocker gets s**t hot plus the exhaust heat hits it as well!

other wise as long as you stick to the intake side of the engine heat isnt too much of a drama.

what is your intake manifold made out of? and how hot does the manifold get?
hotter than your intake!

 

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 Post subject: intake
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:13 pm 
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u make a good point about heat fast xr and i like the way u set up your intake as i am about to fit a 3inch intake as well. i can see u used a el intake pipe. can u wright a list of parts u use eg pipe bends and silicon joins thank dude

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:18 pm 
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Hey

In relation to the box'd pod thingy, i dont know how people have gone with pod's in airboxes ie with the law but a mate with a WRX got EPA'd with an FMIC, pod and some other bits and pieces and he made an aluminium air box for it and it didnt pass so yeah.

Like i said I dont know how other people have gone but he still got nabbed..
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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:35 pm 
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FAST-XR wrote:
check out my intake in my gallery for ideas...
im not saying its the best option, but for $60 of stainless 3" pipe and $30 for the slicone bend, its not bad at all!

the only area i would be keeping away from concerning heat is the big u-turn bends u see people do over the rocker cover. the rocker gets s**t hot plus the exhaust heat hits it as well!

other wise as long as you stick to the intake side of the engine heat isnt too much of a drama.

what is your intake manifold made out of? and how hot does the manifold get?
hotter than your intake!


Yeah good point actually, and it does get literally blown up :)

So far nothing but good news

By the way FAST-XR, that intake looks bloody tops! How did you go connecting it to the actual air box? more flexy rubber stuff?

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:59 pm 
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Quote:
can u wright a list of parts u use eg pipe bends and silicon joins thank dude

what i used to make this intake was:
1. 1 x 60 deg bend - 3" stainless pipe - $45
2. 1 x staight piece - 3" stainless pipe (approx 200mm long) - $15
3. 1 x 90 deg 3" silicone bend - $35

you will see that there are 2 straight pieces in the intake, one is an off cut from the 60 deg bend. and the red silicone adaptor is an offcut off the 90 deg silicone bend.

Quote:
How did you go connecting it to the actual air box? more flexy rubber stuff?

the adaptor that screws onto the back off the air box has been taken off, and the pipe just goes straight through the hole with a pod on the end of it, there is just enough length on the neck of the pod to kick it downwards to clear the air box lid, you can grind out the plastic ribs on the inside of the top of the air box for more clearance too.

hope that helps!

 

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