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Ported head and cam arrived. PICS! Help me out!!! 

 

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 Post subject: Ported head and cam arrived. PICS! Help me out!!!
Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 3:37 pm 
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Hey Guys,

Seemings I'm keeping my car I've decided to go ahead with the next thing I had planned. Rebuilding a motor and swapping it over for mine.

Here's the parts I've aquired so far... All for under $600
- Block minus head, intake manifold, exhaust.
- Fully ported and polished head.
- Stage two cam. (unsure of brand as it came with the head)
- Standard intake manifold.
- PH4499's

I've managed to get all the essential parts nice and cheap but would love to get some forged pistons, aftermarket chip (perhaps a mega squirt) and valve springs.

I'm just wondering what you guys (tickford_6 and fordfreak ef etc) that are running 140rwkw+ on NA i6 motors have done? There isn't really much more that can be done apart from what I've listed above is there?

Any advice?

I've got 3 months of holidays before I start Uni so this is going to be my project :D

Last edited by MoNGooSE on Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:19 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:00 pm 
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id find out the cam specs if you can

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:21 pm 
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Cam I'm not worried about as it came with the head. I wanted the head as it was fully ported and polished. When it arrives I'll pull the cam out and hopefully find out what brand it is and from there, find the specs, but I'm not counting on it.
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:38 pm 
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it's not at all hard to get around the 140 mark.

you don't need forged pistons for one of these engines N/A. You simply wont be stressing it enough to make the money spent on them worth it.

the money would be better spent on flow testing the head so you can get a cam that siuts it, OR find out if the port job was good or bad.

if you are going to use a mega squirt or an other aftermarket ECU you'll have no problem getting the power because you wont be held back by selecting a cam that will work with a stock ecu.


If i was starting from scratch this is how it would look.

ACL race pistons at 1mm over size (from3.983L to 4.071L)
balanced
deck height machined to put the pistons 15thou down the bore at TDC
AU head gasket
combustion chambers CC'd to 61cc (will give 10.5:1 compression with above specs)
ported head
custom cam

I would custom make a set of headers and intake, but in your case the stock intake and the headers you have will do fine.

after market ECU.

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:51 pm 
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Cheers mate. Very helpful. Those are the specs I was looking at.

Is there much that can be done with the standard intake apart from giving it a general clean up on the inside?

I've always had aspirations to bolt on a blower some time in the future. But my pocket and common sense keeps talking me out of it.

Last question. I'm running an auto so should I be looking at modifying anything apart from perhaps fitting a hi-stall? And where's the best place to go for a hi-stall? There isn't much on ebay for Falcons. Hell of a lot for the Holden turbo's :(
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:55 pm 
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i would go with manual if you can, if not definately hi-stall as this will be a limiting factor on what cam you get

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:59 pm 
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if you want to keep the auto you will nedd a high stall converter and the risistor mod to stop the limp home problem.

you could look at having the intake power ported or extrude honed.

but for the cost you could also modify a X-flow triple webber manifold to fit and use weber style throttle bodies. or start from scratch and have one made.



you need to dwork out now if you go with boost. or you'll find yourself spend alot of cash if you change your mind

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 6:13 pm 
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Boost isn't going to happen. When I'm all done and dusted with Uni then I'll grab myself an XR6T, then I've got easy LEGAL boost. For now all I'm wanting is to have a bit of fun and end up with a stronger motor at the end of the day.

I am wanting to stick with an auto if possible simply because I don't have the money or time (on top of the engine rebuild) to be doing a manual conversion. If a cheap one comes along then I'll look into it.

So a hi-stall and resistor should be sufficient? Where do I look for a hi-stall, just my local trans place?
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:53 pm 
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yeah ring a few trans places to see what they can do.
you'll also need a nice big trans cooler. Bn'M do some nice ones for a tad over $100.

I'm not total up on all the auto trick that have come out latly, check out the driveline section for whats involved with stoping limp home with high stall converters

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:40 pm 
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At high compression, detonation will be your friend.
9.5 : 1 is about the highest I would go.

Find a cam with a high Dynamic Compression Ratio.

There are programs out there, use Google to search and study DCR.

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:45 pm 
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i've run 10:1 with stock EF ecu with out problems.

with a custom tune and 98 octane feul 10.5:1 will not be a problem.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 2:10 am 
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Thanks a lot for all the help guys. Looks like I've got a bit of homework ahead of me! Here's hoping she's all running with nice numbers before March or I'll be catching the bus to uni :lol:
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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 7:57 am 
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tickford_6 wrote:
i've run 10:1 with stock EF ecu with out problems.

with a custom tune and 98 octane feul 10.5:1 will not be a problem.


The EF's run a knock sensor. How much does your engine ping when you accelerate hard from a standing start & for how long?????

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 12:14 pm 
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cjh wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
i've run 10:1 with stock EF ecu with out problems.

with a custom tune and 98 octane feul 10.5:1 will not be a problem.


The EF's run a knock sensor. How much does your engine ping when you accelerate hard from a standing start & for how long?????




the knock sensor can only do so much, it can't control the timing infinitly.
under WOT conditions the ECU is in closed loop mode anyway.

the engine doesn't ping at all under hard acceleration. at about 3500 with medium throttle there is a slight rattle, but it did this befor the engine was built when had 9.3 ish compression, so i don't see it being a problem as a result of the increase.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 11:01 pm 
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pm sent mate
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