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porting and polishing 

 

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 Post subject: porting and polishing
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 12:08 am 
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Is it worthwhile taking off the casting marks in the ports and intake manifold or will extra airflow be negligable?

Experienced opinions only please :wink:
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 1:09 am 
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im no expert or particularly experience for that matter, but common sense tells me removing anything that upsets air flow is worth getting rid of.

ive always done it when ive got an inlet manifold off the maotor for whatever reason.

cant say its given power increases but hey it keeps me out of trouble for an hour or so.
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 2:12 am 
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yes i can see the potential but how restrictive are the casting dags?

Also what is the process in match porting? you would use mechanics die to see where they are overlapping?
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 3:21 am 
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not so much as restrictive more of a hinderence to airflow swirl

match porting from what i know is where the ports are matched to the gaskets

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 7:10 am 
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Is it gonna be a DIY job?.

You'll find most of the work in a basic porting is focused on reducing those restrictions which are caused by obstructing intake air flow as it transitions from the intake manifold to a smaller intake port entry in the head; 2) casting bumps, ridges or other marks, such as those you may find on port floors or roofs; 3) sharp edges, such as those you will find around the valve guide bosses at the top of the valve pockets; and 4) the point where the intake port floor curves down to the valve seat.
Polish the combustion chamber & exhaust ports but skip the intake ports, you can also save a fare bit of money by doing it yourself then take it in for Cc matching & benched flow.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 2:30 pm 
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Slick wrote:
Is it gonna be a DIY job?.

You'll find most of the work in a basic porting is focused on reducing those restrictions which are caused by obstructing intake air flow as it transitions from the intake manifold to a smaller intake port entry in the head; 2) casting bumps, ridges or other marks, such as those you may find on port floors or roofs; 3) sharp edges, such as those you will find around the valve guide bosses at the top of the valve pockets; and 4) the point where the intake port floor curves down to the valve seat.
Polish the combustion chamber & exhaust ports but skip the intake ports, you can also save a fare bit of money by doing it yourself then take it in for Cc matching & benched flow.


Yes, diy. Why would I skip the intake ports? Thanks for the info

Frank- didnt think of matching them to the gasket but it makes a lot more sense that using dye to find where they overlap.
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 3:19 pm 
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Blu Falc wrote:
Yes, diy. Why would I skip the intake ports? Thanks for the info


You dont polish the intake ports because you want the surface a little rough to create turbulence to mix the air and fuel better and stop the fuel forming droplets on the walls. You want the exhaust port polished to help stop carbon buildup.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 3:39 pm 
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Im thought it would be something along those lines, more turbulance= better atomisation.

It would still be benifitial to match port the inlet though right?
Casting marks would be good to remove from the inlet as well? I can still leave the surface rough but not have the dags there, good idea?
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 3:48 pm 
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I dont know how much better it will flow with the castings removed, but it certainly wont hurt so go for it.

And yeah, gasket matching will help make a smoother transition from runner to port.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 4:04 pm 
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Blu Falc wrote:
Im thought it would be something along those lines, more turbulance= better atomisation.

It would still be benifitial to match port the inlet though right?
Casting marks would be good to remove from the inlet as well? I can still leave the surface rough but not have the dags there, good idea?


Yes, match port inlet by applying blue dye to intake port side & plenum port. then sandwich the gasket in between. remove gasket & check area of gasket that has no dye on. thats the area you wanna remove. or dye metal surface of intake port side & align gasket then scrape around the inlet with a sharp nail. do the same with the plenum.

yes, remove all marks, bumps & sharp edges. you wanna keep that sanded look on the intake side.

Note: do it in stages. back & forth throu the ports removing a little bit at a time.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 6:39 pm 
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Gday Blu Falc, Did a home port job a while ago. I was supprised at how good the original casting was but still room for improvement. I think a general clean up is worth it, noticed better throttel response and gained a few top end rev's. Got a few before and after pic's in my gallery that might help. Good luck.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 8:04 pm 
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Yeah, Blue, Evereyone is on the right track. Done enuf of this to know!!!!)
You need the little bit of roughness to create turbulance but also a layer of air will sit in the slight imperfections creating a rolling surface for airflow.The exhaust is the opposite. Because of the heat and positive pressure air will not sit there so you want those ports glass smooth.
And yes match porting will make airflow much more efficient on both sides.
It is worthwhile spending time on both.
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 8:35 pm 
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Keeping surface roughness to improve fuel/air mix is very questionable. I bet no one here in this thread has actually flowed their handy work nor done back to back testing.

As a safe rule you should never port the floor of a port runner. 99% of the time if you raise the floor with plastasine it will improve on the flow bench. All raise heads raise the intake ports and have "d" exhaust ports to improve flow and minimise dead areas. This also improves the short turn radius, one of the biggest contributors to quality air flow. Prime example is Clevland 4v inlet compared to CHI 3V, Nascar heads etc.
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:25 pm 
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Bert wrote:
Keeping surface roughness to improve fuel/air mix is very questionable. I bet no one here in this thread has actually flowed their handy work nor done back to back testing.


Mine was flowed after the work. I didnt have it flowed before, but I know the guys that did it before have done extensive testing on falcons and they said the roughness was necessary.

I was very happy with the results so Ill take their word for it. This is the finish they said was ideal for inlet ports

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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:32 pm 
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What 1/2 baked Machine shop did that intake? I'd never take my head there.

 

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