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Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:52 pm 
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even with it, its definately the ECU stopping it.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:54 pm 
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mine will spin the wheels with a bit of smoke from a no brake standing start, its only got a 2.5'' exhaust and a high compression (shaved :P) head, and a 3.08 S/S diff lol

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:09 pm 
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smiley235 wrote:
even with it, its definately the ECU stopping it.


Hmm.. so you can change the ECU or remap it or something?

(sorry ringastinga for hijacking breifly)
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Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:24 pm 
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gotta get the ECU flashed eventually

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:58 am 
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FordFairmont wrote:
Dellar69 wrote:
60 bucks aint much off ebay it is something that is suposed to be relpaced every 100,000 ks anyway dont replace it now will just have to do it later


its alright, i aint knocking your idea, just saying that with a bit of knowledge you can save yourself some money by eliminating some possible causes.

You can test the operation of the o2 sensor by taking a voltage reading with a multimeter at the appropriate ecu pin. I think its 0.80 volts for the first 40-60 seconds after startup then should fluctuate between 0.1 and 0.8 volts with 0.5 being an ideal mixture.

If the values are wrong at the ecu, then take the readings directly from terminal 'c' of the o2 sensor and check if the voltages are the same as the ecu. If not then check wiring for continuity and earth leaks.

Above 0.5 is a rich mixture, and below is a lean mixture. Other things cause these mixtures, not a functioning o2 sensor.

If the car is severly lacking in power, and given the nature of eseries blowing headgaskets, then testing the compression is a good idea, before you start buying cams, exhaust, new sensors etc trying to improve power.


Measuring the voltages means squat, unless you know exactly what voltages you are looking for at different load points. While .5v is supposedly the ideal voltage, would it surprise you that the I6 engine is basically tuned for mixtures between .65 and .78v. Even then, if the sensor is reading wrong, its feeding the ECU the wrong AFR values.

While a compression test is recommended, considering the age of the car, replacing every sesnsor is a worthwhile proposition. Easily worth upto a 15% power gain if a sensor is reading badly. Been there, done that and every year or so I replace every sensor I get a power and economy benefit.
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 10:27 am 
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arm79 wrote:
While .5v is supposedly the ideal voltage, would it surprise you that the I6 engine is basically tuned for mixtures between .65 and .78v


Thats interesting, may i ask where you got that info from? Its a good thing then regardless cause mine sits at a steady 0.7 at part throttle and leans out to 0.55-0.6 at WOT

replacing every sensor is a worthwhile proposition. Easily worth upto a 15% power gain if a sensor is reading badly. Been there, done that and every year or so I replace every sensor I get a power and economy benefit.[/quote]

i agree there as im doing all this as money allows, i wish i had the luxury of changing every sensor once a year.....

Although i dont have the problem of not spinning the wheels as the thread starter has :)
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 10:38 am 
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FordFairmont wrote:
arm79 wrote:
While .5v is supposedly the ideal voltage, would it surprise you that the I6 engine is basically tuned for mixtures between .65 and .78v


Thats interesting, may i ask where you got that info from? Its a good thing then regardless cause mine sits at a steady 0.7 at part throttle and leans out to 0.55-0.6 at WOT

replacing every sensor is a worthwhile proposition. Easily worth upto a 15% power gain if a sensor is reading badly. Been there, done that and every year or so I replace every sensor I get a power and economy benefit.


i agree there as im doing all this as money allows, i wish i had the luxury of changing every sensor once a year.....

Although i dont have the problem of not spinning the wheels as the thread starter has :)[/quote]

That comes from tuners and from what I've seen of the tuning software for the EEC-IV and V. They are tuned on lamda voltages, not on injector opening times. The ECU does all the fueling calculations based on injector sizes, fuel pressure, blah, blah, and fuels until it gets the desired voltage feedback from the O2 sensor.

While the O2 sensor might be showing it leans out, since the ECU doesn't look at it at WOT, the voltages are meaningless. Chances are it's still running rich as f**k like every other Falcon on the road.
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 3:31 pm 
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So what is the "approved" method of tresting the O2 sensor.. I've just noticed that my mixture seems alittle rich as I get a puff of black smoke (black, not blue) when I put the boot in hard, so perhaps I need to look at mine as well.
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 3:45 pm 
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Put it on a dyno and see what the tailpipe output mixtures are.

But then you'd also need to know what they are from factory to compare. And then comparison is flawed as well, everthing else on the car will conspire to making it run richer than it should at the age of the car.

You may as well spend the $50/$60 on a new O2 sensor, rather than wasting money on a dyno testing s**t.

O2 sensors are a consumable. They get coated in crap and die over time. By design, they are no longer efficient sensors a year or so after you put them in.

And using the old sensor when installing extractors is almost a no no as well. Pushing the sensor further back makes it less effective, and due to its age, it makes it less effective/sensitive again.
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 3:56 pm 
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But really, if your not sure for what voltages to be testing for on the different sensors etc, you really should invest in a $40 workshop manual for your car, should be a pre-requisite for joining fordmods :P

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:01 pm 
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I have the max elleries manual..

its mostly rubbish.
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:03 pm 
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For comment only - please don't try this unless you are sure you are not going to do damage else where such as valves or cats.

A trick to recondition them in the early days of EFI used to be to disconnect it and introduce a vacuum leak so it runs lean during a short but spirited drive, this is supposed to heat them up and burn the stuff off them.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:05 pm 
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smiley235 wrote:
But really, if your not sure for what voltages to be testing for on the different sensors etc, you really should invest in a $40 workshop manual for your car, should be a pre-requisite for joining fordmods :P


Not even that will work.

Say you were getting a constant output of .72v on the oxy sensor, which might equate to a 12:1 AFR. Who's to say that due to carbon buildup on the sensor, its misreading and its should actually be .68v.

Or you have 2v on a temp sensor which should equates to 50deg, but the sensor is misreading and the actual temp is 60deg. So its over richening the mixture... Unless you are able ot measure the water at that point in time and compare a thermometre to a voltage, its kinda worthless.

So its just easier to swap the sensors periodically. The only let down then is the engine itself causing sensor misreading.
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:05 pm 
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frankieh wrote:
I have the max elleries manual..

its mostly rubbish.


well I had the hanes for an EA and BA and although not massively comprehensive, gives you a lot of information to tackle most jobs on the car. I now use the workshop manual for the BA but sometimes there is so much stuff, its easier just looking at the hanes for quick reference. I'd contest that it is "mostly rubbish".

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:22 pm 
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well the wiring diagrams are rubbish, at least the ones I've referenced to reality.. (like the 4speed box wiring on EA though to ED..

rgds

Frank
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