MOVED TO TOP

Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Thu Jul 03, 2008 1:05 pm, edited 5 times in total.

A few days ago i took my spare EB radiator apart and cleaned it out then put it back together. I decided to do this because i knew both of my EB radiators were clogged, and when i watched a professional do my XG one i figured it was money for jam.

My EB radiator had a copper core and plastic tanks. To take it apart all i had to do was use a screwdriver to bend back the copper holding tabs, and pull the tanks off.

The professional guy i watched used a thin long metal object that looked just like a dipstick to unclog the cores. So i checked my dipsticks and found that the EB dipstick was too thick but my EL one was okay, only it wasn't long enough to poke all the way through. I still used it but maybe i didn't really need to, plus it got scratched. I then used my air compressor powered degreaser gun with water in it, a gurney would have been better but i don't have one, directing the spray down each core, and it worked fine. I could see discoloured water coming out then clear as i cleaned each one out.

In retrospect i probably should have used new seals when putting it back together. Living in a semi-remote area i decided to just use black silicone on top of the old seal. I am told silicon acts as a slippery lubricant which can mean the seal shifts out of place, also i was told it doesn't seal all that well to plastic. Anyway, all i then had to do was bend the tabs back down, i used pliers.

Professionals then pressure test them. I could and might get this done, but i'll see.

Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I was still using the EB to drive around till last monday. I had progressively thickened the oil and it stopped leaking. And i only noticed knocking when the engine was idling on an upslope, which probably meant the front main bearing had less oil lubricating it.

Then, when i looked at it on tuesday, i could see coolant had leaked from the head gasket. It had run hot a few times because of the radiator being clogged, and because i knew the motor was stuffed anyway i didn't do much about it.

Today i disconnected and unbolted most of what is required to remove the motor and gearbox.

The motor and gearbox are now out of the car, the motor is mostly stripped, and the engine bay is degreased.

Approximately 1/3 of the coolant channels through the block to the head were rusted shut at the head gasket.

When i put my puller on the harmonic balancer, all that came off was the outer ring. Any suggestions on how to now remove the inner ring? I am just dismantling the old motor for storage.

The rear main seal doesn't in fact appear to have been leaking, making me wonder whether the oil i saw coming out of the bellhousing was actually auto trans oil. I wasn't able to check the auto input shaft seal because as soon as i started pulling things apart the torque converter leaked oil over the seal and inner bellhousing. Max Ellery tells me stuff-all about what is involved in replacing the input shaft seal. Can anyone please advise?

you seem to have most of it covered..
but if your using the ef/au water pump the outlet is smaller than the eb one..

so you need to use a ef/el radiator or at least the ef tank as the bottom hose on the eb is larger than ef/el you can rig up an adaptor to go from small hose to a larger hose but if your still sourcing parts it would be best to get the ef/el radiator...

I will be using an EB radiator, at least in the short term. I have a section of EL hose, and my first idea is to see if the EB lower hose fits over this. If so i can probably just clamp them, using two hose clamps for extra measure.

yes the eb hose will fit over the ef hose..
i did that when i was using the ef radiator with the ea water pump.
but in your case its the opposite way around. but the same idea.you can fit a short piece of ef hose onto your water pump then slide the eb hose over the piece of ef hose and clamp it up.

also im not sure if i mentioned it before but the factory eb radiators dont have the mounting holes for the thermo fans.

I also have an ED motor with an EF radiator and thermos and the hose works fine with a good clamp.

Great, and perhaps slightly more reliable even than your scenario because the water pump tube is a stiffer base than the plastic tube of the radiator.


Oh bugger. I guess it's something that can be worked out? Any suggestions?

In the short term i really would like to use one of my EB rad's, in the long term i might get an EF/EL H/D one (3 core).

yes it would be better..although i had mine on there for about 12 months and there was no probs at all..

i guess you could make a couple of small bracket and mount the fans to the top of the radiator core??
iv even seen some people cable tie the fans to the radiator..
i would rather do it right but you could make something up to get by..

You are swapping your car for a digital camera?

Ha Ha . . . . . . . no.

I have made a few mod's to my "updated list" and placed it at the top of page 1.

I've just got an AU motor and some parts. Some questions have arisen . . .

1. There is no alternator. There is one bolt hole in the block, one in the sump, and behind these is a metal bracket held on by two bolts. Does the AU alternator bolt directly to these, or am i missing a bracket? Can i use my EL alternator?

2. There is no water pump. Is the EL water pump the same?

3. Other fordmodders have swapped the upper inlet manifold for an EL item. Are they swapping the upper section of the inlet tubes, or just the single inlet where the throttle, ISC, etc is? Why?

4. Do i fit an EF/EL a/c compressor onto the AU bracket, or onto an EF/EL bracket? On casual inspection the AU bracket looks like it might make the dizzy a tight fit, or interfere.

Can't help you on 1,3 and 4 cause I've been drinking, but as for 2, EF to BF (probably FG as well? who knows) all use the same waterpump.
So EL pump will be fine.