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| DrE |
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Hey guys, doing my clutch on sunday, and want to tackle my leaking rear main at the same time. According to my workshop manual, it doesnt say anything about removing sump, it just says that i need to pry the old seal out and make sure i have a piece of brass between the prybar and crank face, then i need a specail tool to press the new seal in, but it doesnt tell me what tool i need, just that its specail. Has anyone got any tips on replacing rear mains, or know what this tool is? Im hoping i dont have to drop the sump, really dont feel like taking the motor out. Cheers in advance
chris
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| akademiks |
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dont have to remove sump.
mine was done as a back yard job when my gearbox was swapped for a t5, and the rear main didnt take too long to swap. the guy doing it had done a few beffore tho so he prob had a trick to doing it. sorry thats all i can help you with |
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| DrE |
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thats ok you saying that the sump doesnt have to come off is a relief hehe thanks, now i just need to know the trick. stupid workshop manual not giving me much detail
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| Ausman |
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rear main is fairly easy to replace, using a small screw driver u can pry the old seal out, being careful not to mark the crank. give it a quick clean with a rag and tap the new seal in with a small hammer, there is a special tool to do it but a hammer also works, take note of where the seal sits and put the new 1 to around the same spot. this sunday aye, take it u'r not coming on the cruise to noosa?.
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| 1sickEB |
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if you have a socket or a bit of pipe a bit smaller then the hole is the best way to do it if you dont have one when you have gone as far as you can with the hammer use a punch and when it goes clang its all the way in but it HAS to go in striaght
_________________ God made Holdens to keep d**k Heads out of FORDS |
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| DrE |
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thanks heaps for the quick replys, yea im gonna have to give the cruise a miss, was hoping my clutch would hang in there but i cant even get up hills at the moment, slipping something shocking. Ill price the tool, ill prolly only use it once, but at least its gaurenteed to work perfectly, if not ill give it a go with pipe or a socket.
cheers chris
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| fastleno |
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geez it would have to be a bloody big socket or pipe.
my tip: tap it in gently with a hammer but try to keep the seal square to the crank while you knock it in . |
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| 1sickEB |
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oh yeha i forgot there big muthas lol my bad
_________________ God made Holdens to keep d**k Heads out of FORDS |
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| fastleno |
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lol thought as much, its a good trick on smaller seals works well.
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| twase |
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Smear it with light grease or oil first if it is not prepacked first and make sure you go in square and don't pinch the seal against the crank.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| DrE |
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thanks for the advice guys, picked one up from repco today for 19 dollars, just a round rubber seal with a long spring around the inside diameter. So just pack the whole thing up with grease and make sure it goes in straight?
cheers chris
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| ilovmel |
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make sure you get th right touque for the flywheel
_________________ i am in need of a new front bar or good condation secondhand for a 95 ef futra,
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| twase |
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DrE wrote: thanks for the advice guys, picked one up from repco today for 19 dollars, just a round rubber seal with a long spring around the inside diameter. So just pack the whole thing up with grease and make sure it goes in straight? Light grease or Vas will do the trick, if genune it should come already greased..
cheers chris
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| eed-250 |
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speedy sleeve!
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
don't put the new seal in the same depth as the old one. set it about a 1mm in or out from where the old one was. that way if the crank is worn, the new seal doesn't run in the groove, saves from having to speedy sleeve the crank.
also get some 600grit wet n dry and clean the crank with that and some carby cleaner spray make sure it nice and clean befor you put the new seal in |
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