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Rebuild... No more problems 

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:13 am 
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i did the research guys and i am very confident with the rebuild...

Everything was measured and I worked out that 0.5mm oversize pistons and rings was the way to go as the cylinders were slightly out of round.
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:13 am 
Getting Side Ways
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my cranck only needed a linish other than that is in A1 condition so I asked for std bearings... turns out the bearings are 10 thou oversize so repco are changing them over for me tomorrow

Yes the ring was my fault it popped out of the compressor as i was tapping it down $210 new set also tomorrow.
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:13 am 
Getting Side Ways
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I may have come out sounding like a fair noob with the questions that i asked but now realise how silly i was, im kinda gld tho because ive now learnt that checking before installing is the way to go.

research is something that i havent lacked and before i do anything i have been reading and asking if i dont know.

I guess the proof is in the puding and we'll see when its complete how it'll run
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:18 am 
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[Everything was measured and I worked out that 0.5mm oversize pistons and rings was the way to go as the cylinders were slightly out of round.[/quote]

cylinders out of round :shock:

obviously you have machined them out - right?

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:19 am 
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gogetta wrote:
mate u can go wrong real quick if u dont know what u are doing....

make sure you check your ring gaps and put them in the right way...how did u check piston to bore clearance?


yeah i had the rings all in the correct positions as per the ACL diagrams

.5mm oversize was more than enough so i bought the kit and then sent the lot to engine solutions and the bored and honed to the specs, they also linished the cam, surfaced the block and head and installed the gudgeon pins on pistons/conrods
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:23 am 
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ringastinga wrote:
gogetta wrote:
mate u can go wrong real quick if u dont know what u are doing....

make sure you check your ring gaps and put them in the right way...how did u check piston to bore clearance?


yeah i had the rings all in the correct positions as per the ACL diagrams

.5mm oversize was more than enough so i bought the kit and then sent the lot to engine solutions and the bored and honed to the specs, they also linished the cam, surfaced the block and head and installed the gudgeon pins on pistons/conrods


yep good, sounds like everything has been done right..

is that right that it cost u $210 for a new set of rings!!!

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:45 pm 
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ringastinga wrote:
my cranck only needed a linish other than that is in A1 condition so I asked for std bearings... turns out the bearings are 10 thou oversize so repco are changing them over for me tomorrow

Yes the ring was my fault it popped out of the compressor as i was tapping it down $210 new set also tomorrow.


There ya go. Undersize ( 0.010") Conrod bearings will lock up on a STD crank pin journal everytime.
Let that be a lesson for you, check your old parts against the new ones.
That " DE 07 ", means the bearings were made in December 07.
Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:40 am 
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ok... repco replaced the bearings WOOP WOOP!!

and even better news....

i called up mahle (manufacturers of the pistons and bearings) and theyre posting me a new ring....

FOR FREE!!

saved myself $210

WOOP WOOP WOOP!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:42 am 
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DA22LE wrote:
Hey,

I think the ACL parts are good value for money. I had no probs installing rings onto my new pistons ( 6G72 Mitsu V6) You will have to get you crank ground for the bearing shells you have. As stated, get a micrometer and measure if the crank is still in spec, then you will know if you have to get another set of std bearings. You could probably get away with it, but it depends if you're going to give it a hiding or not. Personally i would just get the crank ground seeing as though you have the parts already. A grind would be about the cost of new bearings. Are the pistons you got the hypereutectic ones??

You cannot beat researching things if you are not quite confident of doing the job yourself. Out of curiosity, how many KMS did the motor have before hand??

Cheers

8-) Daz 8-)


The motor had 300,000 but was still running quite good last dyno pulled 120 wrkw just with exhaust system and cam
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:44 am 
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TKFDXR8 wrote:
[Everything was measured and I worked out that 0.5mm oversize pistons and rings was the way to go as the cylinders were slightly out of round.


cylinders out of round :shock:

obviously you have machined them out - right?[/quote]

cylinders out of round is common and yeh if you had read what i wrote you will have noticed that the cylenders were bored and honed
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:19 pm 
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can u post up the specs of your pistons...chamber size, pin height etc...

im on the lookout for pistons for my rebuild...

what comp u running? have you decked the block much?

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:28 pm 
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good to hear its working out for ya mate

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 10:41 pm 
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What's the grand plan for this engine mate? Do you have boost in mind? I always hear about ACL but are there others options? How hot can you go before you look at the expensive stuff like H-Beams and forged pistons, is it safe to aim for 300rwkw supposing you stay away from rocket fuel and NOS?
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:10 pm 
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nah mate no boost unless i add a supercharger down the track but because turbos are part of the 3 "T's" I'm stayin away just after a non-oil-leaking good na engine....

also running crow stage 3 cam, hm headers, hi-flo cat, 2.5 cat back, chiptorque chip, el xr6 head, el xr6 ecu, bbm... just lookingfor some bigger injectors atm
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:17 pm 
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here's a bit of an update...

Last night my piston ring showed up and with the bearings rplaced with the correct std ones it was time to begine the re-build... again!

So i started by oiling and installing the big end bearings (Crankshaft) onto the block. Once they were all in the crank was oiled and installed. The flange Bearings (other side of crankshaft) were then oiled and installed. Flanges are then bolted in and torqued to 85Nm.

I then popped all of the pistons in and fastened them to the crank.

test turned the engine... YAY it turns!!


I then installed the new hig volume pump, Timing gear, timing chain, guides, o-rings, tensioner and case cover....


Heres a few pics of how it sits now

 

 

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