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removing stuffed head bolts. 

 

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 Post subject: removing stuffed head bolts.
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 4:01 pm 
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can anyone come up with any ideas how to remove head bolts from a motor that has been overheated and cooked? .

Got the best socket on it, with a huge breaker bar, (i normally just use my touqrue wrench to remove them) but now the 6 sided socket has sliped on a few of the bolts ..

cut them off? .. drill them out? ..
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 5:07 pm 
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nest guess would be to try to drill the bolt heads off...... might f**k your cylinder head though

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 5:22 pm 
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1. Run a calipre into the socket your using, first from the opening, then further inside. If the outer internal measurement is greater than deeper down, then consider shortening the socket for a better fit.

2. Get a few cheap sockets one imperial / metric size smaller than the head bolt. Dress the damaged head bolt with a fine single-cut file and just as the socket is almost ready to fit over the bolt head, warm the socket up (either in the oven or by flame) and tap it onto the bolt head. Obviously 1xsocket per bolt is lost.

3. epoxy socket to bolt head (using release agent arount surrounding surfaces obviously (again, one socket sacrificed per bolt head).

4. Try quickly warming the aluminium head in section localised to the bolthead, by flame before attempting to crack the bolt

Maybe these may lead to a solution.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:00 pm 
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never use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. It s a calibrated tool.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:10 pm 
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When I did my head gasket the bolts were there to stay and I snapped 2 cheap sockets trying to crack them. In the end bashing them about 5 times with a hammer then getting 2 people on a ~2.5 foot breaker bar did the trick.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:21 pm 
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tickford_EB wrote:
never use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. It s a calibrated tool.


Yeah, i've got two, one does not work! its like a big ratchet handle ... good for a braker bar!
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:23 pm 
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will try all those tips tommorrow ... almost killed my wrists today ...

hehehe .. its a LOT harder too when the motor is out the car, had to move the motor too a wall of the house so it does not tip over when undoing the bolts!
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 9:46 pm 
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if u can try heating them with an oxy until the heads r red hot then bash the socket on give a couple of taps with a hammer and try then, this is wat i do at work with bolts that wont come out

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 10:31 pm 
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Quote:
Yeah, i've got two, one does not work! its like a big ratchet handle ... good for a braker bar!





hey, thats not a bad idea, ive got an old stuffed one lying around
thanks man

 

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MISC - pioneer head, 12-stack and speakers

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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 1:15 pm 
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I dont know if this will help ..but a few years ago when I had trouble getting the bolts loose on my EA one of the mechanics at work suggested trying to tun the bolt as for TIGHTENING and once moved to any degree bolt could then be undone. When I did it I had already stuffed 1 or two sockets and trying this "trick' worked....Worth at ry
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 2:38 pm 
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I have welded an old ring spanner to head of head bolt and belted it with big hammer or 2" x 1 mtr pipe as lever...Ha they both went in rubish bin when finished...

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 4:08 am 
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Just on the topic... oh... a $70 learning experience.

Yesterday, I bought myself a torque wrench, and decided to make sure the rocker bolts were in the at the correct tension after some previous work I had done.

I've never used a torque wrench before, and I was expecting the wrench to stop letting me tighten the bolt when it gets to the setting, or make a loud and definate CLICK!!! CLICK!!! CLICK!!!... I ended up breaking two of the bolts into the cylinder head. :oops:

After s**t myself and worring that I would never get em out... I ran down to supercheap and got a bolt/screw extractor set and a drill bit. :o

With my dremel I center drilled the top of the bolt, with a 4.5mm steel bit drilled into the bolt about 1cm, then attached the extractor... and to my luck.. I got them both out in about 1/2 hour!!! 8-)

After buying some more bolts from Ford ($30 for 4 of em) I carefully proceded to tighen the rocker assembly back onto the head. I have now come to the conclusion...

* The torque wrench make a slight tap sound inside the arm when its at the set torque.

And thats my war story concerning broken bolts...(and hopefully the last)

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 12:44 am 
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Lukieman wrote:
Just on the topic... oh... a $70 learning experience.

Yesterday, I bought myself a torque wrench, and decided to make sure the rocker bolts were in the at the correct tension after some previous work I had done.

I've never used a torque wrench before, and I was expecting the wrench to stop letting me tighten the bolt when it gets to the setting, or make a loud and definate CLICK!!! CLICK!!! CLICK!!!... I ended up breaking two of the bolts into the cylinder head. :oops:

After s**t myself and worring that I would never get em out... I ran down to supercheap and got a bolt/screw extractor set and a drill bit. :o

With my dremel I center drilled the top of the bolt, with a 4.5mm steel bit drilled into the bolt about 1cm, then attached the extractor... and to my luck.. I got them both out in about 1/2 hour!!! 8-)

After buying some more bolts from Ford ($30 for 4 of em) I carefully proceded to tighen the rocker assembly back onto the head. I have now come to the conclusion...

* The torque wrench make a slight tap sound inside the arm when its at the set torque.

And thats my war story concerning broken bolts...(and hopefully the last)


After snapping one off, wouldnt you stop?

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 1:23 am 
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becareful with extractors, cause if they break in the bolt your more f**k then you were to begin with

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:51 pm 
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when i did my head gasket a fe weeks ago i had to use an angle grinder,chisel and hammer to get 3 of the buggers out,,took half an hour .

 

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