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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey guys, I need to replace my tie rod ends, I see lots of threads on here on the topic, however none explain how to replace them, so here I am making a thread
 . It looks very straightforward but I don't fancy experementing with my steering system so I'd rather ask over risking my life just to keep the forum nazi's happy.Does anyone know the procedure at all??? Not even my max ellery's has it, it tells me to adjust the tie rods under the wheel alignment section, that's about as helpful as it gets, I'd assume I'd just keep going with the adjusting nut until it comes off, but there's no clarification in the book whatsoever. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! |
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| JOSE |
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generally i leave stuff like this to workshops with an aligning machine as you will nearly always need an alignment afterwards anyway.
ive never done a falcons rod ends but i assume its similar to smaller fords. Undo nut on tapered part or rod end (goes through steering arm) leaving it engaged by about 5 turns of thread then undo the locking nut on the tie rod (do not forget to do this now), belt the f**k out of steering arm and rod end with aluminium/brass hammer to "shock" the taper loose (may take a bit of beating to get it - nut is still on so when you slip you dont destroy the thread) hitting the top of the tapered pin is pretty well useless. after its come loose remove the nut and swing the tie rod/rod end away from the steering arm then enscrew the rod end. IF There is enough room underneath with the car on the ground do it without jacking up the car and you should be able to preserve your wheel alignment
_________________ Because i can. |
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| hans hartman |
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JOSE wrote: generally i leave stuff like this to workshops with an aligning machine as you will nearly always need an alignment afterwards anyway. ive never done a falcons rod ends but i assume its similar to smaller fords. Undo nut on tapered part or rod end (goes through steering arm) leaving it engaged by about 5 turns of thread then undo the locking nut on the tie rod (do not forget to do this now), belt the f**k out of steering arm and rod end with aluminium/brass hammer to "shock" the taper loose (may take a bit of beating to get it - nut is still on so when you slip you dont destroy the thread) hitting the top of the tapered pin is pretty well useless. after its come loose remove the nut and swing the tie rod/rod end away from the steering arm then enscrew the rod end. IF There is enough room underneath with the car on the ground do it without jacking up the car and you should be able to preserve your wheel alignment look to see if they are the same size,have seen 14mm and 16mm threads,undo lock nut and count the turns to screw off,put new one on the same---be close,then wheel alignment
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| Disco Frank |
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JOSE wrote: generally i leave stuff like this to workshops with an aligning machine as you will nearly always need an alignment afterwards anyway. nope i did mine the other week and got the toe spot on JOSE wrote: ive never done a falcons rod ends but i assume its similar to smaller fords. Undo nut on tapered part or rod end (goes through steering arm) leaving it engaged by about 5 turns of thread then undo the locking nut on the tie rod (do not forget to do this now), belt the f**k out of steering arm and rod end with aluminium/brass hammer to "shock" the taper loose (may take a bit of beating to get it - nut is still on so when you slip you dont destroy the thread) hitting the top of the tapered pin is pretty well useless. after its come loose remove the nut and swing the tie rod/rod end away from the steering arm then enscrew the rod end. IF There is enough room underneath with the car on the ground do it without jacking up the car and you should be able to preserve your wheel alignment kinda a ball joint removal tool is much better to use  is what i use and is awesome1 jack the car up safely on axle stands ( refer to manual for correct points ) 2 remove wheels 3 undo/loose the locking nut on the steering arm 3 undo the tie rod end nut and remove nut 4 insert ball joint removal tool under the steerign knuckle but above the end ( pretty easy to figure out ) 5 bang end of tool with hammer ( not ya C**k! wrong tool for this job ) this should pop the tie rod end out of the steering knuckle 6 IMPORTANT count the turns as you unscrew the end and also the orientation of when it falls off the steering arm, for example mine came off upside down, so that's how i started the thread upside down 7 install new tie rod end same turns as the ones you took off. 8 do up the lock nut 9 re install the tie rod end to steering knuckle and do up nut 10 do the other side 11 attach wheels 12 remove axle stands 13 go drive i got mine spot on doing it this way
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| Shadow Keeper |
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This is the style of separator I use, saves missing with the hammer if you are a lousy shot...
 They are simple to change, just count the number of turns when you take them off and screw them on the same amount. Torque the nut up to spec 45Nm and put in a split pin if it has one unless it's a nylock nut. |
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| Disco Frank |
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yup they work ok...
although found a few times no matter how much i turned that bolt the joint no come loose i love my hammer tool ! 
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Thanks guys, so basically I need something to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle, how much would one of those ball joint removal tools set me back??? also with jacking the car up, I use stands instead of ramps so the weight of the car is off the front suspension?
Also I'm doing my inner bushes on the lower control arms, I have the arms all ready to come out but the lower ball joint thread won't separate from the arms. I've taken the nuts off but the thread just won't slide out, on both sides of the car. Is this the same principle as the tie rod ends? Do these threads need to be forced free or something? |
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| Disco Frank |
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ILLaViTaR wrote: Thanks guys, so basically I need something to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle, how much would one of those ball joint removal tools set me back??? also with jacking the car up, I use stands instead of ramps so the weight of the car is off the front suspension? yes exactly right use the chassis rails of the car or teh front x member ILLaViTaR wrote: Also I'm doing my inner bushes on the lower control arms, I have the arms all ready to come out but the lower ball joint thread won't separate from the arms. I've taken the nuts off but the thread just won't slide out, on both sides of the car. Is this the same principle as the tie rod ends? Do these threads need to be forced free or something? yes same principal interference fit u will need to seperate the ball joints if u dont have a tool or cant buy one, do as jose said and replace the nut on the thread BUT use a piece of wood or something on the nut and a hammer to belt the joint free no need to worry when you tighten it as it will pull up and fit good
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| 87SIlude |
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Be a man and hit it harder.
"Shock" therapy. |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Well I bought the tool and I'm glad I did! One of the sides was almost impossible without it, the lower arm practically exploded off the ball joint as it separated, I ended up using the mechanical clamp looking tool and even that was a struggle, the arm on the other side of the car came off almost straight away lol. Thanks for the help everyone
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey guys, just putting the lower armsw back onto the car and I did something silly, I forgot which sides each arm goes on!! The end is kinked and the radius rod looks like it can only go on one way but it won't fit in right. Do the kinks on the end of the lower arms (that connect to the lower ball joint) face towards the front or bakc of the car?
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Managed to get it all back together, just tightening the bolts with the weight on the car and can't figure out how to do up the ball joint nut, it just spins around as I try to tighten the nut, even with the weight of the car on the wheel!! The lower arm hasn't seized on the taper, even tried bottle jacking up the lower arm with no luck. What's the trick to stopping the thread from spinning?
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| Disco Frank |
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ahhh
keep the car on stands use a jack as u have done on the lower arm to push the joint to the stub axle screw on the nut as car as u can. now there SHOULD be some metal just above the nut looks rectagleish.. place a ring spanner over the ball joint nut and grab a small adjustable spanner and use that to grip the rectangle looking metal above the nut while u turn the nut with the ring spanner
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| wtbdlltd |
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when i did mine i did it 1 wheel at a time just jacked up as if i was going to change a tire. since your going to chuck the old ends away i just removed the bolt on the top then got a big hammer and hit it very hard and it poped out. when putting it back in i just aligned it up as close as i could to what i could see was straight and it was fine.
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| CPOCSM |
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ILLaViTaR wrote: Managed to get it all back together, just tightening the bolts with the weight on the car and can't figure out how to do up the ball joint nut, it just spins around as I try to tighten the nut, even with the weight of the car on the wheel!! The lower arm hasn't seized on the taper, even tried bottle jacking up the lower arm with no luck. What's the trick to stopping the thread from spinning? The Jack under the tie rod is the way to get the nut up to torque. Tie rod ends don't need a lot of nip-up(30-35lb/ft)and the jack will hold the tie end enough for you to get it nipped up. On the mini it has nyloc nuts and an "R" clip through the tie end. |
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