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running in new car? 

 

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 Post subject: running in new car?
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:27 am 
Tyre Shredder
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would there be any kind of run in procedures for a bf xr6t? like grannying it for a tank of petrol. or can i just drive it like i stole it straight away?

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:53 am 
Getting Side Ways
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spool it up

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 11:18 am 
Getting Side Ways
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me i'd drive it half assed for a week
but i think i would get to me and id just f**k nail it
so i don't think i'm any help

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 11:44 am 
Tyre Shredder
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yer i personally wouldnt flog it stright off, but then again it does loosen it up, you can notice the difference between government cars which have been flogged and grannyed cars, they can be a little more responsive just a tad.

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:38 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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drive it like ya stole it..

ok, well dont bounce it off the limiter.


im a believer in the faster you bed it in the better, granny it everywhere you could have troubles and the rings can not bed in properly.

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:41 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Read the manual......

my mums getz said that there was no formal run in period just try and keep the revs between 2 and 4k rpm and dont let it labour away at the same revs..

Just don't rev the C*** out of it and don't let it labour, let the revs vary.

Failing that.. thrash the f**k out of it :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:42 pm 
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Gaz wrote:
im a believer in the faster you bed it in the better, granny it everywhere you could have troubles and the rings can not bed in properly.

Yeah.
Load it up, don't hold it at a constant speed for too long.

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:44 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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ive driven a few basically straight off the truck, i know lots of guys at ford dont hold back

 

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 Post subject: Re: running in new car?
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:46 pm 
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rockerfella wrote:
would there be any kind of run in procedures for a bf xr6t? like grannying it for a tank of petrol. or can i just drive it like i stole it straight away?


* Always make sure it is warmed up to normal op temp first
* Drive it hard from day one.
* Change the oil and filter after 100kays.
* I used to work at a dyno shop and i always asked the customer how they ran the car in (if they had it from new) or how they normally drove it. The motors that were treated as above always produced more RWKW than those that were driven too carefully.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Have a look at this site.
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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:08 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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thanks guys, much appreciated. unfortunately this is my dads new car, not mine, but hell i'll be behind the wheel plenty

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:13 pm 
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WA, Australia

1. Don’t let the thing idle. I.E don’t start it up and leave it sitting for few minutes before driving it, Nothing good will come from this)
2. Soon as you get it and I mean as soon as possible Find a nice quite street and accelerate from 30 to 70 with the engine under load then let it cost back down to 30and repeat 7 or so times, if a Manuel do this in 4th-5th gear if auto just get the revs up in the power band 3000RPM or so when accelerating. (This loads up the rings and helps bed them in)
3. No constant speed driving for the first 500 or so K’s i.e. don’t sit at 100 on the freeway for 40 minutes at constant revs
4. don't drive it in heavy trafic for the fist few 500k's, as this will resalut in alot of idleing time
5. when you drive it give it a good run, not 5min down to the shop and back

Don’t baby the thing, this is very important, Letting it warm up, putting around in it and all that stuff is all bad, this can all cause excessive run in times, poor ring sealing, bore glazing and oil consumption.

When you drive it don’t be afraid to take it into the Power band get it up around 2500-3500RPM when accelerating but don’t thrash the sit out of it ether if you get what I mean.

Also this is completely optional, but the first Oil change will be at 15,000k if you leave it to ford. This is for one of 2 reasons

1. Ford’s machining and assembly is that f**king spectacular that the fist oil change is no longer required
2. Ford pre run in their engines.

Now Unlike MTU, CAT ECT I don’t see ford pre running in their engines so that leaves option No.1 which on a mass production engine is crap IMO

So at the 3000K “Tyre Kick serviceâ€￾ ask for the Oil and filter to be changed if you whish, but first ask to make sure the Warranty will not be affected as believe it or not they can use this to reject a Engine related warranty clam latter on.

With today’s engines at 300-500K’s the thing is run for the most part, the key is just drive it normally, don’t baby it and don’t thrash it and you will be right.

Just remember your not just running the engine in it’s the Diff and gearbox and all that stuff too.

Cheers.
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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:43 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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I've built a couple of engines over the years Holden/Ford for some mates and some of my own cars and all i told my friends is to take it easy for the first 5000km then change oil and filter and then slowly add abit of drive on the engine but not flog or drive it hard for the next 5000km.Then another oil/filter change and then it should be fine to start driving harder.And all my engines which i have rebuild and built have lasted the test of time and endurance.But being a new car you shouldnt really have to worry too much,just dont over rev it and dont drive like a hoon.Just drive it around on the week days and then go for a drive in the country to blow the cob webs out.

 

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